My first stop in Bali (Indonesia) is in Sanur. It's not far from the airport, and it is the quietest of the touristy places. I found my way to Swatstika Bungalows and had a very refreshing shower. I hadn't showered since Byron Bay - I spent the night on the bus and the day in Sydney, and though I brushed my teeth and changed my clothes in the railway station bathroom, it just wasn't the freshest feeling. The moon was almost full, and I enjoyed a drink of my rose-petal juice (from Channon market) on the balcony.

Slept like a log. The next day I went into Denpasar - the capital of Bali, meaning 'close to the market'. This town is so busy, dusty, hot and humid. I was tired and dehydrated, so I probably didn't pick the best time to wander the halls of Bali Museum. Still not used to the ways here, I was a bit overwhelmed. People who want money from you give you a lot of attention, and the rest ignore you. Being used to greeting every person I met in Fiji, it was a big contrast. Even in big old Aussie people greet each other. Never mind.

I picked my way through the motorbike filled streets to the public park Alun-Alun Puputan. The first Europeans to take interest in Bali were the Dutch in 1597, and Bali was later subdued to Dutch reign until after WWII. In the middle of the park there is a huge statue that commemorates the events of September 20, 1906, when the Raja of Badung marched out of his palace gates, followed by hundreds of his subjects, and faced the invading Dutch head on. Dressed in holy white, they were ready for a ritual fight to the death - puputan. Another significant statue in Denpasar is situated on the traffic island that marks the exact location of the city centre. It is a huge stone statue - the four-faced, eight-armed Hindu guardian of the cardinal points. After visiting two markets filled to overflowing with everything imaginable, I went back 'home'. Been there, done that, bought the t-shirt, scars to prove it, not going back.

I met an Austrian woman, Gabriele, in Sanur, and together we went to buy the sarong and sash - religious wear for women. It was the night of full moon, and it is one of the big festivals in Bali. We were allowed to go to the temple, and we brought the offerings, did all the right things, including drinking the holy water. I whispered to Gabriele: I really do hope it is holy water, because you're not supposed to drink the water in Bali. She just smiled and whispered back: let's hope it's holy water. Luckily no Bali-Belly resulted. We felt very privileged to be allowed to take part in this special ceremony.

Bali is a country where the predominant religion is Hinduism, and it accompanies most of people's every-day life here. The Hindu gods and goddesses are worshipped several times a day, and the evil spirits are held at bay by the mean looking statues that is situated outside every house and temple. Several times a day one can see (for the most part) women carrying a big tray filled many small trays made out of woven bamboo leaves filled with flowers (only certain types can be used), burning incense, money and food. She kneels down, places one small tray and an incense stick at each place of worship and blesses it by praying and very gracefully moving a flower dipped in holy water over the tray. These small trays can be found in several places in houses and shops, in cars and on motor bikes.

The mythological and religious stories of Bali is acted out in stunning dances, accompanied by the gamelan music. They excel at anything artistic here, and it is truly fascinating to see the petite Balinese girls and woman, dressed and made up like something out of a storybook, dance to the intense music. Their faces are very expressive, and the hand movements alone seem to speak its own language. I went to a small village just outside of Ubud - on a motorbike! - To see some of the best dancers in the land. My senses were already full of all the new and rich sounds, smells and sights of this country - it seems I could easily find something worthwhile to take a picture of every couple of steps. The dramatic stories were being played out before me, when I'm suddenly jolted out of my fairytale world. A new dancer entered the stage. I was taken aback at this girls stature. Here was a tall and very thin girl with enormous feet. She kind of did stand out from the other beauties on stage. Oh dear. Well, she was a very good dancer, and her facial expression was spell-binding. She sits down in front of her own little gamelan instrument and plays with such fury! The eyes! Then I see it. It is a boy. I exhale. He dances and moves with such grace, he now easily overshadows the girls.

Every evening the gamelan music can be heard, and every so often streams of dressed-up Balinese men, woman and children are seen walking and driving with offerings to celebrate a special event. I do hope the pictures will give you a small taste of it all.

Family is very important here as well, and one of the things that is a testament to that is the names people have. The first child is called Wayan which means no.1, and the second child is called no. 2 all the way to no. 4, and if a family has five children - they just start with one again. And it doesn't matter if it's a girl or a boy - just imagine how many people are called Wayan here! There is a cast system here, like in India, but it isn't very pronounced. The extended family live together in family compounds, and from the street you just see the door in the high walls, but when you go through it you see the family temple(s), swimming pools (if they are rich), different rooms and verandas. Some hotels are built the same way as well.

On every corner is a spa that offers a wide range of massages and beauty treatments. A good day in Ubud is something like this:

Wake up early, have fruit and a cup of tea for breakfast before walking to yoga place - with open air views of the surrounding rice fields and palm trees. Go home, shower or take a dip in the pool. Walk to "Kafe" and have a look at all the shops on the way. Meet friends over the most delicious organic health food and chill out with endless health drinks or yummy drinks (usually one of each). Go to internet place/go shopping/visit a tourist destination/ dip in the pool. Have massage, shower. Meet some other friends at "Bali Buddha" or "Three Monkeys" and sigh in tune with the frogs at the yummy food and dessert. Wander slowly home/get a motorbike taxi, go early to bed. Oh yes, and tomorrow is another day. What day of the week is it? November, you're kidding!?