It's the rainy season, and this year there is a cyclone the likes of which nobody has seen for fifteen years. A couple of village houses has been swept into the sea, and the men keep pulling trees off the roads. The orange earth blends with the rain and leaves puddles for everyone to walk in - leaving an orange trail wherever they go. The roads are in many places only dirt roads, and driving on them now is like sitting in a bumpy car in an amusement park. The electricity is off for another three days. The goats find shelter in peoples doorways and tries to be very still, trying not to be noticed and ushered back into the rain. The clothes I wore three days ago are still wet. The waves in the ocean are huge, and the beach is a lot smaller than it used to be. The fishermen had to leave their nets in the Quiet garden, there was no space left on the beach. The yoga group from Canada didn't need their sunscreen lotion. The Spaniards are thinking about leaving early. The wind is warm but relentless.

"Auroville wants to be a universal town where men and women of all countries are able to live in peace and progressive harmony above all creeds, all politics and all nationalities. The purpose of Auroville is to realise human unity."

Mid-December is high season for Quiet Guest House and for Auroville guests, so in the still before the storm (I know), several staff members have taken some time off. The Quiet Healing Centre is quiet indeed. Normally there are many classes on offer here. I can easily imagine how beautiful this place is when the garden isn't left in disarray from the winds mischief, when you can walk to the beach without being drenched and blown every which way. When there are people to talk to on the bench next to the pond. Or when you can use the pool...

One morning I woke up and found puddles of water on my floor. I live on the second floor - I can't believe it. I keep looking, trying to make sense of it, thinking that maybe I am still dreaming. I look around, trying to find out where it comes from. I get up, open the door, and watch the stream of water running down the stairs. I start getting ready for breakfast, when more water comes in. The drain on the veranda is blocked with leaves, so the water comes in through the veranda door. I get a new room. I change from 'Lotus' to 'Rose'. The new room is exactly like the other, only a family of geckos live here.

I've been to the main part of Auroville a couple of times, trying to find accommodation for the coming days, my stay in Quiet isn't long term. Yesterday I went to 'The Solar Kitchen', upstairs is a Guest Office, it's closed. I think I'll have a cup of coffee while I'm there. No money, only a guest card can get me one. I don't have it, so the taxi driver takes me back. On the way we stop in a shop where I buy a sim card to use here. He wants a picture and to see my passport and visa. The usual father's name and occupation... I didn't bring any of that with me. Serious business to buy a sim card. He tells me to come back the next day with the picture and info. When I return the next day, his brother is minding the store, and doesn't know where the form is. Can I come back the next day? Sure. I'm not too busy these days. I go to the Guest Office, and talk to a very sweet older woman. She looks frail, and has a patient soft way about her. Anton, who is recharging his mobile in the office (because it runs on solar power and has a generator and is not affected by the power cut) says I can live in his house; it's a community house - the guestroom is vacant. We go to the house in question. The room is gloomy and not very nice. I like nice. Princess says no.

Back in the Guest Office. Marike patiently continues the search. She waves her hand to get rid of a fly on her papers. She tries to help me as best she can. It's getting close to high season, many places are fully booked. She starts calling around. No answer in the first place - the guy went to the bank in the second - can you call back in five minutes in the third - we don't know because the computer is down in the fourth. She chases the fly from her face. A young American couple wants to know if the computer place will be open today. Probably not. Many shops are closed because of the weather. The fly is on her face again. The telephone rings when she is mid-sentence. Nobody answers. She continues talking and waves the fly away from her arm. The phone rings again and she speaks Dutch with a woman on the other end. She hangs up, takes a book and kills the fly. There is a stain of blood on her papers. She explains that the fly was bothering her for a while, and that it was all over her face. She had been annoyed with that fly for a couple of days now. She takes a tissue and disposes of the fly in the bin, her face turned in disgust. I am laughing out loud. She smiles, and shudders at the site of the goo left on her papers. I'm better off trying to call around myself and come back again if I need more help. Yes, that's fine, I need to get back for my only appointment this week anyway. The best massage I've had in my whole life. And after Bali I've had quite a few. So mealtimes are the highlight of the days, maybe I'll go into Pondi (Pondicherry) to get some Indian outfits tomorrow. If I don't find somewhere to live in Auroville, I'll go to Amma. The hugging saint. She's always home for Christmas. If I had the choice - would I want to be in Auroville or in Amma's ashram for Christmas?