I have decided to cover the north coast of the South Is by staying in 3 different towns. Motueka, Nelson and Picton/Blenheim. First stop is Motueka, which is in the north west area of the North Island. It is the major town closest to the Abel Tasman National Park and therefore a popular tourist stop. My Airbnb here is probably the best I have stayed in so far. Lovely house and fantastic hosts - a Kiwi/Sth African couple who love their rugby. We spend every evening watching a Super Rugby game and drinking NZ Pinot Noir. The drive through the Motueka Valley was beautiful. It's a huge fruit growing area, apples, kiwi fruit and hops appear to be the main produce. The orchards and hop fields seem to cover the whole valley. All along the road there are roadside stalls with produce for sale. Motueka itself has a real vibe about it and I'm wondering if I have sold myself short by only booking 2 nights. A quick look at what there is to do and I ask my hosts if I can stay for a third night. Fortunately they don't have a booking so I snap it up. Having been to the southern most point of the South Island, and now being in close proximity to the northern most point, it seems to make sense to head there. Appropriately named Farewell Point it is actually a 35km long sand spit. It's also a conservation area so you can't actually get all the way to the end but it's close enough for me. One thing I have noticed in this part of the country is how far the tide recedes, around 200-250 metres. Boats have to be launched and recovered using a tractor to tow the trailer to the water's edge. The drive to Farwell Point over Takaka Bluff is probably one of the most steepest and windiest roads I have ever been on. It has only just reopened after a number of major land slips and there is still one section of about 2-3 kms where it is a single lane. The queues of vehicles waiting for their turn to get through can be quite long. Prior to the road reopening the people in towns on the "other side" of the bluff were completely cutoff. Their only means of access was by boat. Working my way back from the Spit I called in at Pupu Springs. These springs are sacred to the Maoris (you are forbidden to drink or even touch the water) and are feed by an underground water source. The water bubbles up to the surface creating quite a mesmerising effect. In addition it is crystal clear with perfect visibility to a depth of 63 metres. The colourful plant life growing in the springs has an almost coral like effect. Not far from the springs is the Pupu Hydro Walkway. This a great walk to an old hydro electric power system which has been brought back to working condition by a local volunteer group. The power generated is pumped back into the grid and the revenue generated goes to the local town of Golden Springs. It's an amazing piece of engineering that dates back to the early 1920's. On the day I am there, about a dozen volunteers are cleaning out the manmade water race with shovels and hoes. Sure shows some local dedication. Although it's getting late in the day I decide to stop by Harwoods Hole. One of the largest caves in NZ - 70 metres wide and 357 metres deep. The walk to the cave is probably better than the cave itself. The track winds through a dense forest where some filming was done for The Lord of the Rings. Being late in the day, with the light fading, it's quite an eerie atmosphere.

The next day I set out to walk part of the Abel Tasman track. The 60 km track pretty much follows the northern coastline. My plan was to walk about 9kms to Observation Bay. Walking through thick rain forest, with numerous side tracks leading down to secluded beaches, was a very pleasant way to spend the day. I made it to Observation Bay far quicker than I expected. Eating lunch on a completely deserted beach with just some gentle waves rolling in and a couple of islands just off shore was a magical feeling. With the walking being so easy I decided to press on a bit further and eventually made it to Anchorage Hut beach. By this stage I had walked about 12kms and with the same distance to get back to my car, it was a good spot to turn around. The body was a little tired that night and I certainly slept well. Whilst very different to the west coast this part of NZ has been a pleasant surprise. The coastline, the valleys, the rainforest and the little seaside towns along the coast have a special charm about them.

An hour and a bit away is Nelson where I am spending 2 nights. Having just stayed in the best BnB I have experienced, I arrive at the worst. It just doesn't have that welcoming feel, but that's the way it goes. As a town Nelson doesn't excite me. The Provincial Gallery has an exhibition of National Geographic's 50 Best Photos. Some stunning shots and a good representation from Australia. As the photographers admit, some came down to pure luck - simply right time, right place. The next day I head to Nelson Lakes National Park. The park centres around 2 lakes, Rotoiti and Rotoroa. There is a 10km walk up and across Mt Roberts which provides great views over Lake Rotoiti. The weather forecast was promising so decision made. The first hour is tough. It's just a constant zig zag track, continually ascending, no breaks at all. Fortunately it's through a fairly heavy forest so at least there is ongoing shade. Once I break through the tree line the view back over the lake and down the valley is stunning. And it remains that way as I traverse across the ridge line to the Bush Line Hut, which makes a good lunch spot. From here it's basically a constant descent, with the view of the lake never disappearing. The track crosses over some major avalanche activity on the way down. I have made much better time than was suggested so I decide to head over to Lake Rotoroa, about a 40 minute drive away. It's a very different scene here with the lake more tightly encircled by the surrounding mountains, and thus it has a more isolated and dramatic feel to it.

The next 3 nights I will be spending at a place about 10 minutes out of Picton, on the road to Blenheim. From Nelson I take the scenic route (is there any other type of route in NZ?) via Havelock, which skirts along the southern shore of the Marlborough Sounds. Havelock is an interesting town. Not large and quite quaint but what struck me was the number of boats in the marina. It appeared that there were more boats than there were houses in the town. Picton took me by surprise. I was expecting a small place that principally existed as a departure point for the ferries to the north island. And whilst this is probably the major activity in town, it's a modern place and well laid out. The weather is not being kind, cool and rain so indoor activities are the order of the day. Just out of Blenheim is the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre. This is essentially the private collection of Peter Jackson (Lord of the Rings fame) of WW1 and WW2 aircraft. It is absolutely brilliant. Not merely displayed as static exhibitions they are displayed in what can only be described as movie sets, bringing the whole exhibition to life. Whilst the majority are replicas, many of them have been actually flown. My last night in the South Island is spent at a food and music event in Blenheim. It seems a fitting way to say goodbye.

Well the day has arrived when I leave the South Island. Having spent 11 weeks here and travelled over 7000kms, I'm fairly confident that I have covered it well. Despite the weather forecast and the notoriety of the Cook Strait, the trip across to Wellington in smooth and uneventful. The only downside is that it is very overcast and as such practically no view as we make our way out of the Marlborough Sounds. And I arrive to what is apparently a typical Wellington day. Cool, damp and windy. So, what does the North Island have in store? Time to find out.