Having been in El Calafate a few days we can safely say that this is very much a touristy town, with tour companys all though the highstreet and numerous shops selling all the normal touristy stuff. Having said that its a good place to stop off before heading up North. We went to see the Perito Morento Glacier yesterday and spent about 3 hours there (photos on the site). The area has about 13 Glaciers coming down into 2 lakes and Perito Moreno is the most famous (60 meteres high in some places). As I said before there are loads of different tours you can do, including ice trekking across the glaciers and boat trips that take you to the more inaccessible ones. We have decided not to do any as we have already seen loads in Antarctica and we want to start moving North as we feel that we have been down this part of the world for a long time. We will miss the beautiful treks around the town of El Chaiten and the famous Mount FitzRoy, but as we have done the Torres we will not be too dissappointed. We hope to get up Ruta 40 (famous road but I haven't quite worked out why, I'll tell you once we've been up there) to the town of Perito Moreno(not to be confused with the Glacier we saw yesterday) see some 10,000 year old cave paintings (some of the student digs I stayed in had painted walls from that era as well, but I think these are more impressive). Then we have to try and work a way into Chile and up north along the Cerrata Austral road, which is supposed to be beautiful (volcanos and lakes) and then get to the Mystical Island of Chiloe (why mystical, well thats what they say in the books, maybe Harry Potter takes his holidays there).