How to begin to describe the best three days motorcycling in my life, well that is to date.
Well I am catching up with my blog from my very reasonable hotel beside Lake Como in a place called Lecco.
Yes I did ride from Italy through Switzerland and back out into Italy again today. It feels quite strange to cross borders without getting your passport checked. A biker on the ferry said "they usually wave through motorbikes". To my delight they had stopped two harley davidson riders on the way back into Italy and had all their gear out(that will teach them).
Leaving my wild camp site early yesterday meant I was on the road a little after 7 am! a record so stopped in the same cafe down route that I stopped when doing the Mt Tramalzo Circuit the day before. It was early and the coffee perked me up, the owner topped up my cup several times. I showed her some of my hand held video that I took with my sony camera, yes cycling one handed on a very dangerous trail, mmm on reflection not the smartest of ideas. Even though we did not share the same language we shared amazing trail views. It is not surprising that several cyclists die in the area each year. The last words of the bike shop owner rang clear in my ears, take care and ride safely (saw red mist a couple of times as some young guys overtook me) now I know why he said this. This hotel is at the base of the 1100 metre climb, so many cyclists would have fuelled up here for sure.
Heading off down the first of many passes with nice bends, big cliffs either side of the road, saw an old man fishing for trout in the mountain creek the road followed. More flowers at the side of road...
My route followed green small roads -and even on 1:800,000 scale the map showed twisties. Passing Madonna Di Campiglio my first real switchbacks for the trip on the GS. Now riding a fully laden 800 cc BMW with gear means it's quite a handfull. When riding tight switchbacks it's first or second gear and sometimes slipping the clutch to get around the corner without stalling. Spotting oncoming traffic to see if vehicles are coming allows a wide approach and ensures you are out of the 'impact zone' on exit from the corner.
Been reflecting on what it is like and the appeal of riding a motorbike on good twisty roads in mountainous scenery. There are some similarities with mountain biking on nice twisty flowing trails. In both you get into a zone and both have a sensation of 'flow'. Flow in this case means the acton required becomes kind of automatic so without conscious thought. On the motorbike you use counter steering and shifting your weight balance to steer through the corners.
I was having flashbacks from my previous canoeing career passing through infamous White water rivers such as Mezzana and Tirano (must tell Neil and Daryl).
Arrived in Bormio in good time ( amazing difference getting on the road early) and checked out a couple of Hotels, the second one was 45 Euros, and had a garage to store the bike safely - so checked in, did my washing and spread my damp camping gear, and cycling kit around the room (nasty mottled yellow spider was in my tent, don't think Italy has poisonous spiders...).
After a little cat nap took a walk into the old part of town, amazing old narrow streets where the buildings almost meet each other. Some seriously classy (expensive) shops. Checked out a couple of cycling shops for gift for Liz. The Giro d Italia comes through here and this year the amateur stage Etape rode the Stelvio. Some nice shirts left were on special but I could not wear one having not ridden in the event.
After taking photos of the local hire bikes & nifty locking racks and a nice bridge I found a bar with free wi fi. This enabled me to plan my next days ride and stage via google and google maps.
Now this close to Switzerland - be rude not to could see a nice loop ride arriving back in Italy.
Of course I arrived on a Sunday! probably busiest day of the week where every hot blooded Italian Ferrari driver and motorcyclist wants to try his hand at the Stelvio Pass. So given the speed these guys drove through town - one could only imagine what they would do on the blind bends on the mountain. I was in two minds whether to bail or not, I don't mind risk, but un calculated risk is not my cup of tea.
So figuring that bike riders and fast car drivers are lazy hatched a plan - get up early and miss the crowd. So alarm was set early. Roads were quiet, in fact only rubbish men and the occasional car. Took all gear off the bike to ensure she handled the best possible.
In summary not sure what all the fuss is about - as per yesterdays blog -background the southern side you can go slightly quicker as bends are not blind (some nasty single lane tunnels though...) northern side blind bends and trees - very slow ... The GS is not that fuel efficient for this style of riding)!
At that time of day only met couple of cars and one truck (early E type Jag) and one bike who was on my side of the road - nice one mate!...
I can now say I've been there done that, would I return? probably not as there are nicer roads with smooth flowing bends where you can make progress and are safer. But having just experienced Switzerland, (yes fallen in love with another country amazing scenery and picturesque mountain hotels) they also have some awesome roads, and the added bonus they don't drive like Italians!
So 66 km and the Stelvio pass done twice done and dusted, back at hotel for brekky by 9 am. Arranged late check out so a little snooze to recharge.
Just been served 50 proof grappa by my waiter, thinking next instalment may have to wait until breakfast hic ... or will get very blurry.
Next instalment...Switzerland and back to Italy, lake Como.
Best Cycling shop - buying gifts.
Meeting a Swiss GS rider.
Being overtaken by a push bike rider at 80 km per hour downhill...at Livigno (Switzerland).
Getting lost in St Moritz...!
Being overtaken by Italian police in a long tunnel doing well in excess of 160 k per hour.
Lucked in again, hotel with air con, secure bike storage, free bottled-water and an excellent restaurant...
Tomorrow - no twisties - freeway all the way back to France, yeah!
Tempted to go via another WW river, Bourg St Maurice, however I can't find a reason why? apart from being nostalgic.
Crossing back to France via Sestriere looks more interesting and makes my return leg to the Pyrenees slightly shorter... Will plan again via google over brekky...on sun deck overlooking lake Como.