Arrived into Quito, the last bit a long narrow valley with quite spectacular chasms, and were met by Monica and driven through busy traffic to the old town and our charming old hotel for 3 nights, Casa Gangotena. Lots of street stalls, people selling food in doorways, and the famous San Francisco church on the plaza right outside. We noticed the 2,850 m height altitude immediately - didn't feel much like eating and needed a lie down! Lovely rooftop terrace gave us great views of the old town and the surrounding populated hills. We walked out for dinner and felt a bit nervous of the crowds and the high number of police, but they were very vigilant and approached us to check our bag safety.

Quito is the second highest capital in South America (2,850 metres) and lies in a narrow valley, situated between the slopes of the Pichincha volcano. Quito was originally an Inca city and was then re-founded in 1534 by a lieutenant of Pizarro. The city is divided into the old city, which contains colonial architecture, and the new city, which contains Quito's main tourist and business area.

Jane and Tony arrived next day and we took tea in the lounge together, complete with tiered cake stands, as per our itinerary! We didn't feel much like eating dinner, so a snack in the bar was all we could manage before our eyes closed.

Monica met us next day for a half day tour of Quito and the Middle of the World monument.

Visited Independence Plaza, and lucked in with a military band parading outside the presidential palace, which, unusually, has shops beneath, including a traditional barbershop. Saw the renowned La Compania church, replete with ornate gold leaf interior and elaborately carved altars to recapture their days of glory. The plaza outside our hotel led into the impressive church of San Francisco, built in the 16th century.

The markets are impressive. We found 5 different sorts of bananas, plantain being a staple in the Ecuadorian diet. At some stage we also discovered Pacari chocolate - delicious.

Monica treated us to some history, pre Inca, 4000 years ago, when confederations traded fluidly. It was into this organised world that the Incas arrived, bringing their language of Kichwa. Today the locals speak Kichwa and Spanish, with some local dialects.

Drove 22km north of Quito to the Middle of the World monument that marks the equator, where we witnessed water going each way down the plughole, depending on which side of the equator we stood, and even balanced an egg on its pointy end on a nail head. Or, was it hocus pocus…