We were picked up and driven north-west from Quito to Mashpi, via the valley of Pomasqui. Lots of silver leaf trees told us we were nearly there - the silver hairs catch the light and the raindrops.

Mashpi is a 1,300-hectare private reserve in the Ecuadorian Chocó region, a biodiversity hotspot featuring both cloud forest and rainforest. Located on a plateau in the Andean foothills, approximately three hours' drive to the northwest of Quito, the forests here are home to an incredible diversity of avian fauna, particularly hummingbirds.

We arrived at the gate to Mashpi and there to greet us right next to our van was a highly camouflaged bird that turned out to be a lyre tailed night jar, once we actually found it! It never shifted while we gazed and photographed it from a few feet away.

Mashpi has been listed as one of the top places in the world to stay, and we believe it. Astonishing hotel of glass, fine dining and posh rooms, tucked away in the jungle, with guides and walking activities on tap so we could make the most of the wildlife and forest. It felt like being in a giant pot plant garden, where magnolia, begonias, bromeliads, bird of paradise and 'earring plants' or fuschias grew as tall trees.

We had an amazing experience walking to the Life Centre, where strategically placed bananas brought many types of birds, and the agouti, a bit like a very large rat. We saw three different types of toucan, the squirrel cuckoo, masked crimson tanger, orange fronted barbet, red headed barbet, the red billed tropicbird, lemon breasted cacique, and both the greater Ani and the smooth billed Ani, which we saw everywhere in our travels. Watched army ants on the march, and lots of beautiful butterflies in an enclosure nearby, including the giant owl butterfly, that has a perfect snakehead depicted on its wings to deter predators.

Next day we walked with Nestor our guide, up a river, amidst beautiful bush, and saw millipedes and some large wolf spiders, one of them actually fishing! Then it was time for the aerial ropeway over the treetops, Tony not so keen but carried on - and we were rewarded with a beautiful two toed sloth, lying at height in a tree, enjoying the peace scores of feet high up among the dense treetops.

We got close enough to get some great pictures. Ted and I carried on with a further adventure taking turns to bike us on an aerial contraption for two that dipped through the treetops - all very well until you got to the uphill bit. Bit of pulling from Nestor from the landing spot was gratefully received when it was my turn to pedal!

That evening we walked from the lodge to a watery spot ideal for spying frogs and a dwarf iguana. We lucked in, spying a Mashpi frog, and different tree frogs. Amazing! The guys gave us a wonderful send off with wine and nibbles waiting for us at a waterfall.

Day 6 - Thursday 11 October

On our last day we went early to the hummingbird garden, where we were spellbound by the sight and deafening sounds of dozens of different types of hummingbirds coming to the feeders. We could stand an arm's length from then and watch them in their feeding frenzy without disturbing them. Incredible experience!

Ted wrote to the kids:
'It's 9.30am and we are just back from 3.5 hour hummingbird excursion. Must have seen about 15 different hummingbirds... sometimes 4 different varieties on the one feeder. Saw other new birds and another variety of Toucan as well. Had nice breakfast sitting at table with bird feeders a metre from us. Possible to get really close, close your eyes and listen to loud hum of flapping wings. Every now and again one would fly past your ear - must be only 100mm from you head. Unbelievable experience. Away from here in about 1.5 hours and back to our Quito hotel.'