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Adventures of a Global Wanderer
Having settled in my hotel at Lake Ohrid it was now past 4pm and I only had what was left of today to look around the town. I didnt anticipate losing a lot of time with the back and forth to Struga earlier today. Also the rains had moved back in to add to the dampner.
Walking past the old theatre I first wanted to scout out where to get the bus back to Struga for tomorrow as I had my 930am bus to Tirana I had to catch.
I didnt find a bus stop and there werent actual buses. I think locals would try to pickup passengers so I'd have to take my chances in the morning or just pay for a cab. I'd passed thru the North Gate which was also touristic with guided tours and souvenir stands.
I was now in the new part of town and had to get back inside the city walls for all the churches in the old town. Just outside the walls was the Turkish quarter with two more mosques.
The first was more like a Teke I had visited earlier today in Struga. Along with the mosque was a separate building with draped coffins you could see thru the windows.
I badly needed food so went to a kebab shop. He grilled fresh mini kebabs but then wrapped and tied them in plastic bag when I said I wanted it to go. It cost 140 MK ($3) but I would have to wait to find somewhere to sit down to eat as I was short on time.
The next mosque was visible just off the main street so I stopped in for a quick look.
I then had to make my way southward to the South Gate to get back into the old town. The main street was quite touristy.
At the southern end was the habour with ferry rides into Lake Ohrid I couldnt find the South Gate, maybe it doesnt exist anymore. The two Bolnichka churches I was supposed to find had also closed for the day.
I was trying to follow my map climbing up the stairs and made it to the Mother of God Church. The lady in charge said she has a PhD and has written a book about the paintings. She was tired from talking all day so I could just go in without paying but not to take any pics.
Next door was the Icon Gallery which had also closed for the day. A couple was having their wedding pics taken here despite the rain.
The rain was still coming down with steady drizzle and I was trying to rush to make it to as many places before they closed and it got dark.
I made it to the St Sophia church back at the bottom of the steps. Entrance was 100 MK ($2) but no pics allowed. It was a white interior and I dont recall if any frescoes. Nearby the National Museum had also closed for the day but there an old printing press open to visitors.
I then followed my map down to the foot of the lake and around to another sight. The Church of St John of Kaneo is a bit of a walk but stunningly set in a corner perched atop the lake. The inside was quite simple though.
I then had to climb steps up into some woods to search for the Plaosnik site. I wasnt sure what to look for but they were building a new hotel almost on top of the ruins. There were also remains of an early Christian Basilica.
Finally there was another grand church. They were closing for the day so didnt charge admission which would have been 100 MK ($2). There were no frescoes in here either.
Finally exhausted I'd been able to cover most of the sights in the drizzle, and in two hours from 4pm to 6pm. Everything was closed now and it was starting to get dark. I just wanted to get a drink so made my way back into the new part of town to a supermarket.
When I came out the rain was quite heavy now. The guest house had also left complimentary fruits and a gift of a drawing. I could now finally sit down, eat, and shower, after a very long day leaving Bitola early this morning, walking 3kms to the cave monasteries in Struga, navigating transit back to Ohrid for 4pm, and running around in the rain before all the churches closed.
On tv was a strange communist era movie about a lady who seemed like a witch and led the town into crazy behaviour. Later there were Turkish dramas, and a pop idol show. It would be nice to come back when the weather is nicer and not be so rushed.
Walking past the old theatre I first wanted to scout out where to get the bus back to Struga for tomorrow as I had my 930am bus to Tirana I had to catch.
I didnt find a bus stop and there werent actual buses. I think locals would try to pickup passengers so I'd have to take my chances in the morning or just pay for a cab. I'd passed thru the North Gate which was also touristic with guided tours and souvenir stands.
I was now in the new part of town and had to get back inside the city walls for all the churches in the old town. Just outside the walls was the Turkish quarter with two more mosques.
The first was more like a Teke I had visited earlier today in Struga. Along with the mosque was a separate building with draped coffins you could see thru the windows.
I badly needed food so went to a kebab shop. He grilled fresh mini kebabs but then wrapped and tied them in plastic bag when I said I wanted it to go. It cost 140 MK ($3) but I would have to wait to find somewhere to sit down to eat as I was short on time.
The next mosque was visible just off the main street so I stopped in for a quick look.
I then had to make my way southward to the South Gate to get back into the old town. The main street was quite touristy.
At the southern end was the habour with ferry rides into Lake Ohrid I couldnt find the South Gate, maybe it doesnt exist anymore. The two Bolnichka churches I was supposed to find had also closed for the day.
I was trying to follow my map climbing up the stairs and made it to the Mother of God Church. The lady in charge said she has a PhD and has written a book about the paintings. She was tired from talking all day so I could just go in without paying but not to take any pics.
Next door was the Icon Gallery which had also closed for the day. A couple was having their wedding pics taken here despite the rain.
The rain was still coming down with steady drizzle and I was trying to rush to make it to as many places before they closed and it got dark.
I made it to the St Sophia church back at the bottom of the steps. Entrance was 100 MK ($2) but no pics allowed. It was a white interior and I dont recall if any frescoes. Nearby the National Museum had also closed for the day but there an old printing press open to visitors.
I then followed my map down to the foot of the lake and around to another sight. The Church of St John of Kaneo is a bit of a walk but stunningly set in a corner perched atop the lake. The inside was quite simple though.
I then had to climb steps up into some woods to search for the Plaosnik site. I wasnt sure what to look for but they were building a new hotel almost on top of the ruins. There were also remains of an early Christian Basilica.
Finally there was another grand church. They were closing for the day so didnt charge admission which would have been 100 MK ($2). There were no frescoes in here either.
Finally exhausted I'd been able to cover most of the sights in the drizzle, and in two hours from 4pm to 6pm. Everything was closed now and it was starting to get dark. I just wanted to get a drink so made my way back into the new part of town to a supermarket.
When I came out the rain was quite heavy now. The guest house had also left complimentary fruits and a gift of a drawing. I could now finally sit down, eat, and shower, after a very long day leaving Bitola early this morning, walking 3kms to the cave monasteries in Struga, navigating transit back to Ohrid for 4pm, and running around in the rain before all the churches closed.
On tv was a strange communist era movie about a lady who seemed like a witch and led the town into crazy behaviour. Later there were Turkish dramas, and a pop idol show. It would be nice to come back when the weather is nicer and not be so rushed.
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