The main feature of Gjirokaster is its imposing castle stretched out like a lion across the mountaintop overlooking the valley. Its design and layout of the town is actually reminscent of the Alhambra Palace complex similarly designed in Granada Spain.

Climbing to the top we had the choice of going into a museum for 200 Lek ($2) as well as castle admission 200 Lek ($2). We were short on cash in our last day so trying to stretch it out and skipping out on things. I dont remember much interesting on the internet about the museum which was mostly WWII exhibits.

Passing thru into the castle grounds were impressive views of the city and the old quarter rooftops. We could easily spot our hotel in the distance.

There was also a downed US spy plane which had been shot down and captured. The main feature at the tail of the castle was the clock tower overlooking the valley. This was built at the instruction of Ali Pasha the local ruler who we were to learn a lot about today. There is also a stage setup for folk dance festivals.

We then decided to go into the museum after bumping into a German couple who we kept running into and had taken the bus with us from Berat this morning. It did seem more interesting than just the WWII pics on the internet. Entrance was 200 Lek ($2).

First there were various Ottoman decrees in arabic script allowing religious tolerance, protection of churches and clergy, and even thanks for financial support in the building of a church.

The museum provided a brief history of the region from antiquity, and more in detail from during Ottoman time.

A large section was devoted to Ali Pasha, the Lion of Janina. I knew of Ali Pasha and part of the interest to explore this region. He was a local ruler who rose up against the Ottomans, carving his own kingdom for a period stretching into parts of Greece, contributing to early Greek nationalism. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ali_Pasha

He is also known to western sources due to his encounters with 'British Agent' Lord Byron who was stirring tensions in the region for Greek nationalism.

Ali Pasha is now buried in Iaonnina (Janina) Greece where we would be visiting tomorrow but I didnt know his legacy stretched this far north. This was known as 'The Pasha's Castle' and was his local seat of power.

Other exhibits dealt with independence, the short lived monarchy, WWII and resistance, and local traditions.

There was also a display on some of the local noble homes. They were taken away by the Communists but since returned to the original families.

There was then an upstairs which was the military museum. This had lots of communist art, rifles, and materials from WWII.

Even more surprising was yet another wing. This was the prison with original cells. Coming to the museum with its three sections did seem like a worthwhile investment with our last rations of cash.

There are three noble houses and we had to pick one to visit as we were short on cash on our last day. We didnt want to withdraw or exchange more money and be left over with extra so we were being very frugal. I even had tried an ATM today but it wasnt in English so we had no choice with regards to money.

I tried to ask the museum attendant who spoke little English which house she would recommend. She suggested the Skendi house next to the Ethnography Museum which we had passed over earlier today. I wanted to find the painted house I'd seen in pictures.

We gambled and decided to goto the Zekate house which was marked on my map and signposted in town. Its actually behind our hotel so a good spot to wind back to.

When we arrived it was locked so we thought it had closed for the day. Then a local came to unlock the door. He was actually part of the family that owned the original home

Entrance was 200 Lek ($2) eating away at the last of our money. I hoped it would pay off. Many of the rooms were nice with low pillow seating benches and area rugs.

As we ascended each floor I thought the best would be yet to come on the top floor and I guessed right. This was an elaborate painted room, with detailed wood ceiling, stained glass,and a painted fireplace. It seems the most elaborate room was at the top of the house with its most prominent position with which to look down on the valley.

Aside from being on the top of a hill the house is further elevated by being blocked up on aqueduct style supports. This makes it one of the most visible homes from all across the town and giving it panorama town views.

We now really needed something to eat. The shops in the the tourist part of town by the castle had closed. We had to climb all the way down back to the new part of town to find some food.

I got a donor type sandwich stuffed with fries for 160 Lek ($1.60) with drink 70 Lek ($0.70). Nourishing but this left me with my last 1000 Lek ($10) which had to last till I made it across the Greek border tomorrow 20 kms away!!