A bit of a shock getting back to a thriving bustling city after the quiet, relaxing island living. Took a flight from Bangkok with Angkor air, Cambodia's national airline that is half owned by Vietnam air and I had the best service I have received so far, if the country is looking to give a great first impression then they have. So after a great first impression I came back to earth as I made my biggest guest house mistake of the trip so far and whilst I have not been too fussy about where I have stayed up to now the guest house I booked into here was a dive, dirty, small, ants, cold water only and noisy so stayed one night and moved to a much better place called The Manor House, gated entrance, really friendly staff, big rooms with hot water and swimming pool at a price that was not too much more than the dodgy place. I visited the sites of the Khmer Rouge atrocities in this area, the killing field and Toul Sleng jail where anybody who might have had the ability to see through Poll Potts madness was tortured and murdered, tens of thousands of them. My driver for the day was a really pleasant guy who told me stories of his family during the Khmer Rouge years, all very disturbing and you can only admire the resilience of these people to put that aside and continue, as a survivor describes on the audio tour at the killing fields so many people's hearts are broken in this country but they still strive for a peaceful normal future. All genocides and atrocities are hard to understand but this one was only 30 years ago and then the country did not reach stability from fear and persecution for another 20 years after that, so this is another country with a young demographic trying its best to find its way in the world. Big thunder storms and lightening here, looks like the beginning of the wet season is showing its hand, it rains, it stops, heat returns, everybody is used to this routine by the look of it. Visited the city sights, pagoda, royal residence, museums and bars and met and had a good drink with a couple of really nice people, Emily from Canada and Nick from Singapore but like Hanoi I struggle to see any charm to the city and I am looking forward to moving on, it's been a while since I have done any temple tourism and temples do not come any better than those at Siem Reap so I am looking forward to my visit there.