Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
Our Year of Adventure
We had a bit more time to enjoy breakfast this morning, there was much less of rush today, we were staying in the country and only going about 20km up the road to the Falls.
After breakfast we walked the two blocks to the bus station to buy our bus ticket to the park. We thought we were just going to buy a bus ticket, but we were sold a boat ride at the Falls too.
There was a lot more people waiting for the bus today compared to yesterday. In fact there were so many loitering around the stop, we were wondering if everyone might make it on the bus. Fortunately we did and it didn't take long before everyone was seated and we were on our way. It was a short bus ride from the terminal to the Parque, only about 30 minutes even with the stops at the larger hotels on the way.
We were one of the first off the bus and went straight to the booth to pay our entry, there was no queuing like yesterday in Brazil. Unlike the Brazilian side, there is no bus taking you to the start of the trails, there is a small train which would take you to a central area if you didn't want to walk the 600m trail through jungle. The train would normally take people all the way to the Garganta del Diablo waterfall, but that part of the park was closed because the trail had been washed away during high water. Isla San Martin, an island in front of the Falls, was also closed because its walkways had been washed away and were not yet rebuilt.
Before we set out, we had to book a time for our waterfall boat trip. The guy explained to us that if we walked the upper and then the lower paths, we would end up at the jetty by midday, in time for the 12:10pm trip.
We decided against the train and walked the Sendero Verde trail to the Central area. There were not many people on the trail and we were well spread out which made it a very pleasant walk, we could enjoy the sounds of nature. Our luck for a peaceful day ran out though when the trail ended at the train station at Central, there were loads of groups who must have taken train instead of walking and we were now caught behind them.
The walkways seemed very different from those in Brazil. In Brazil they seemed to focus on having a walkway cling to the river's edge with constant views whilst in Argentina the walkway cut through jungle to get to the viewpoints. For us, this was better because the jungle did have wildlife in it; despite the crowds, you could hear the birds and the insects.
We followed the signs to the Paseo Superior trail, it was actually more of a boardwalk than a path. On this side of the Falls, there were lots of small rivers/streams that were quite a distance from the main part of the Falls. We seemed to be crossing water a lot but also passing more waterfalls, some quite small but others quite spectacular. The first of the larger waterfalls was actually a pair side by side, Salto Dos Hermanas, and we passed over the top of them. It was very deceptive, the water on our right didn't look particularly deep, strong or fast, but looking to our left where the water tumbled over the high, vertical cliff, it was clear there was a lot of water passing through every second. A little further along the trail we were above Salto Chico and despite its name, it was still very impressive.
The trail continued towards the open Falls area and Salto Bossetti at the right hand side. It had platforms either side of the waterfall and also had good views across the whole of the Falls.
We walked to the end of the boardwalk, crossing over another 3 waterfalls before the final viewing platform at the edge of the main waterfall area. The paths and viewing platforms were all really close to the water, much more so than on the Brazilian side making you feel that you're much closer to the action, so to speak.
A second path to reduce congestion, further back from the falls, took us back to where we started at Central. We then headed towards the start of Circuito Inferior, a loop track taking you down on the lower level. The first part of the track was in thick jungle as it made its way down towards the river at the bottom of the Falls. There were a few coatis roaming around and then David spotted a nine banded armadillo in the undergrowth. Apart from a puma, it was the only animal we had yet to see on our American adventure so we were pretty pleased.
We passed couple of waterfalls, one of them catching the sun perfectly in its spray to show a rainbow. Looking across the river we could see swept away bridge/walkway on the Brazilian side. We watched a boat on the river accelerate up the river and head directly for one of the waterfalls. It slowed down as it got closer, but it virtually disappeared as it was engulfed in the spray.
The path cut back towards the main falls giving us spectacular panoramic views. The end of the path took us to a balcony at the base of the Salto Bossetti waterfall. It was pretty wet with the spray and we took turns to take a photo of each other from a distance to keep the camera dry.
We made our way down to the jetty for our boat trip. We had been warned that we would get wet and were given a dry bag for our stuff. It was hot so David stripped down to his boxers and Maria relied on poncho wrapped round waist to keep her shorts dry.
The boat went up the Brazilian side of the river to give us an up close look at Salto Tres Mosqueteros. There was a lot of spray blowing off which was nice because it cooled us down from the heat of the midday sun. Being so close to the bottom of one of the largest waterfalls gave us a whole new perspective to the height and the amount of water pouring down - even the thunderous roar was louder from here.
The boat then headed round Isla San Martin towards the Argentinian side for close look at Salto San Martin, the main waterfall. It was like a cauldron, a bubbling, frothing, steaming mass at the bottom of this torrent of water. The boat couldn't, or perhaps wouldn't, get as close as the previous waterfall, but you could 'feel' the power of it. The boat drifted sideways towards Salto Mbigua next door and the captain accelerated the boat forward into the spray. Spray is probably the wrong word to use because it suggests a gentle sprinkling of water. What hit us was more like a fire hose on full blast, you couldn't see your hand in front of your face and we got absolutely drenched within half a second.
Just in case anyone had managed to keep any part of their body remotely dry, he powered the boat back into the falls again to the delight of everyone on board. Everyone knew what to expect this time so instead of being overcome by shock, we could actually enjoy the experience.
We went back round the front of the island again to get a soaking in Tres Mosqueteros. The trip couldn't be described accurately as sightseeing, it was more an experience. Yes, you did get a view of the falls from a different perspective, but once you got too close, you were completely blinded by the water.
The boat cruised back to the jetty with a boat full of sopping wet people with big grins on their faces. Maria's poncho hadn't helped keep her dry, but the sun was hot and we soon dried off.
As we walked back towards the entrance, we saw some little monkeys, some in the trees and others foraging on the ground. They seemed relatively used to humans and didn't seem to mind having cameras shoved in their faces.
We had a look round the exhibition at the National Park visitor centre and then took the bus back to town. We chilled out for a bit in our room and then headed back to the Brazilian area, La Feirinha, where we were couple of days ago. We decided to go to the same bar too, for beer and empanadas. It was quieter today, not as many Brazilian day trippers, but the beer was still as cold and empanadas freshly cooked and very tasty.
It looked like it could be a nice sunset, but there was nowhere to view it from close by. We could only watch as the sky above turned orange.
After breakfast we walked the two blocks to the bus station to buy our bus ticket to the park. We thought we were just going to buy a bus ticket, but we were sold a boat ride at the Falls too.
There was a lot more people waiting for the bus today compared to yesterday. In fact there were so many loitering around the stop, we were wondering if everyone might make it on the bus. Fortunately we did and it didn't take long before everyone was seated and we were on our way. It was a short bus ride from the terminal to the Parque, only about 30 minutes even with the stops at the larger hotels on the way.
We were one of the first off the bus and went straight to the booth to pay our entry, there was no queuing like yesterday in Brazil. Unlike the Brazilian side, there is no bus taking you to the start of the trails, there is a small train which would take you to a central area if you didn't want to walk the 600m trail through jungle. The train would normally take people all the way to the Garganta del Diablo waterfall, but that part of the park was closed because the trail had been washed away during high water. Isla San Martin, an island in front of the Falls, was also closed because its walkways had been washed away and were not yet rebuilt.
Before we set out, we had to book a time for our waterfall boat trip. The guy explained to us that if we walked the upper and then the lower paths, we would end up at the jetty by midday, in time for the 12:10pm trip.
We decided against the train and walked the Sendero Verde trail to the Central area. There were not many people on the trail and we were well spread out which made it a very pleasant walk, we could enjoy the sounds of nature. Our luck for a peaceful day ran out though when the trail ended at the train station at Central, there were loads of groups who must have taken train instead of walking and we were now caught behind them.
The walkways seemed very different from those in Brazil. In Brazil they seemed to focus on having a walkway cling to the river's edge with constant views whilst in Argentina the walkway cut through jungle to get to the viewpoints. For us, this was better because the jungle did have wildlife in it; despite the crowds, you could hear the birds and the insects.
We followed the signs to the Paseo Superior trail, it was actually more of a boardwalk than a path. On this side of the Falls, there were lots of small rivers/streams that were quite a distance from the main part of the Falls. We seemed to be crossing water a lot but also passing more waterfalls, some quite small but others quite spectacular. The first of the larger waterfalls was actually a pair side by side, Salto Dos Hermanas, and we passed over the top of them. It was very deceptive, the water on our right didn't look particularly deep, strong or fast, but looking to our left where the water tumbled over the high, vertical cliff, it was clear there was a lot of water passing through every second. A little further along the trail we were above Salto Chico and despite its name, it was still very impressive.
The trail continued towards the open Falls area and Salto Bossetti at the right hand side. It had platforms either side of the waterfall and also had good views across the whole of the Falls.
We walked to the end of the boardwalk, crossing over another 3 waterfalls before the final viewing platform at the edge of the main waterfall area. The paths and viewing platforms were all really close to the water, much more so than on the Brazilian side making you feel that you're much closer to the action, so to speak.
A second path to reduce congestion, further back from the falls, took us back to where we started at Central. We then headed towards the start of Circuito Inferior, a loop track taking you down on the lower level. The first part of the track was in thick jungle as it made its way down towards the river at the bottom of the Falls. There were a few coatis roaming around and then David spotted a nine banded armadillo in the undergrowth. Apart from a puma, it was the only animal we had yet to see on our American adventure so we were pretty pleased.
We passed couple of waterfalls, one of them catching the sun perfectly in its spray to show a rainbow. Looking across the river we could see swept away bridge/walkway on the Brazilian side. We watched a boat on the river accelerate up the river and head directly for one of the waterfalls. It slowed down as it got closer, but it virtually disappeared as it was engulfed in the spray.
The path cut back towards the main falls giving us spectacular panoramic views. The end of the path took us to a balcony at the base of the Salto Bossetti waterfall. It was pretty wet with the spray and we took turns to take a photo of each other from a distance to keep the camera dry.
We made our way down to the jetty for our boat trip. We had been warned that we would get wet and were given a dry bag for our stuff. It was hot so David stripped down to his boxers and Maria relied on poncho wrapped round waist to keep her shorts dry.
The boat went up the Brazilian side of the river to give us an up close look at Salto Tres Mosqueteros. There was a lot of spray blowing off which was nice because it cooled us down from the heat of the midday sun. Being so close to the bottom of one of the largest waterfalls gave us a whole new perspective to the height and the amount of water pouring down - even the thunderous roar was louder from here.
The boat then headed round Isla San Martin towards the Argentinian side for close look at Salto San Martin, the main waterfall. It was like a cauldron, a bubbling, frothing, steaming mass at the bottom of this torrent of water. The boat couldn't, or perhaps wouldn't, get as close as the previous waterfall, but you could 'feel' the power of it. The boat drifted sideways towards Salto Mbigua next door and the captain accelerated the boat forward into the spray. Spray is probably the wrong word to use because it suggests a gentle sprinkling of water. What hit us was more like a fire hose on full blast, you couldn't see your hand in front of your face and we got absolutely drenched within half a second.
Just in case anyone had managed to keep any part of their body remotely dry, he powered the boat back into the falls again to the delight of everyone on board. Everyone knew what to expect this time so instead of being overcome by shock, we could actually enjoy the experience.
We went back round the front of the island again to get a soaking in Tres Mosqueteros. The trip couldn't be described accurately as sightseeing, it was more an experience. Yes, you did get a view of the falls from a different perspective, but once you got too close, you were completely blinded by the water.
The boat cruised back to the jetty with a boat full of sopping wet people with big grins on their faces. Maria's poncho hadn't helped keep her dry, but the sun was hot and we soon dried off.
As we walked back towards the entrance, we saw some little monkeys, some in the trees and others foraging on the ground. They seemed relatively used to humans and didn't seem to mind having cameras shoved in their faces.
We had a look round the exhibition at the National Park visitor centre and then took the bus back to town. We chilled out for a bit in our room and then headed back to the Brazilian area, La Feirinha, where we were couple of days ago. We decided to go to the same bar too, for beer and empanadas. It was quieter today, not as many Brazilian day trippers, but the beer was still as cold and empanadas freshly cooked and very tasty.
It looked like it could be a nice sunset, but there was nowhere to view it from close by. We could only watch as the sky above turned orange.
- comments