As we had hoped, we'd had a great night's sleep on the huge, comfy bed in Chalten Suites. Even the shower made it easy to get up and out the bed. We've been getting used to small, cramped showers where you are fighting to stop the shower curtain sticking to you while you wash, so to have a shower, with lots of steaming hot water, as wide as your outstretched hands was like being in heaven.

The morning treats didn't stop there either, breakfast was amazing compared to the usual Argentinian fare. In addition to having bacon and eggs cooked and brought to our table, there was a spread of fruit, cereal, real coffee, toast, ham and cheese and jamon serrano, orange juice and cake... awesome.

The weather forecast for the day was good so we decided to walk the Laguna de los Tres trail that would take us to the lagoon under the Fitz Roy tower. The track started at the northern end of town and soon started climbing up the hill although not too steep. There were views of the Rio de las Vueltas river valley before we entered into a section of forest. We were lucky to spot a pair of big Magallenic Woodpeckers pecking away on a tree. While the female is predominantly black with a white stripe on it's back, the male has bright red head and looks exactly like the Woody Woodpecker cartoon.

The track divided into two routes which would later rejoin, one to the Fitz Roy Mirador and the other to Laguna Capri. We decided to take the mirador route because the sky was still relatively clear and we hoped for some photos after missing out on the Paine Torres in Chile.

There were nice views of Fitz Roy and other surrounding peaks around. We continued our walk which began to head downhill until it was quite a flat walk along to the Arroyo del Salto stream (which leads to waterfall we saw yesterday). All the way along the trail, we had stunning views of the mountains and Glacier Piedras Blancas.

The next part of the trail took us over sort of a swamp in the valley (thankfully, the park had built some boardwalks across it) and into Campamento Poincenot in the forest on the other side. There were quite a few tents set up with windbreakers built around them using fallen branches.

As we walked out of the forest to second mirador we got our first glimpse of the track up to the lagoon and it looked pretty steep and rocky. We had made pretty good time so far and decided to walk the whole way unless it started to rain or it became too windy.

We crossed the river to the base of the steep ascent to the lagoon and stopped at Campamento Rio Blanco for a quick chocolate break and to have a toilet stop. The toilet was in a very sorry state, it was missing the actual toilet and there was only a hole in the very flimsy floor above the long drop pit.

The track up the hill was steep and because it was above the treeline it was really rocky and rough in most parts. It was pretty narrow too so getting past people going in the opposite direction or those going up was a bit of a challenge.

Having a break half way up, we looked back towards the valley and could see all three lagoons, Madre, Hija and Capri, between us and El Chaltén. We made it up to the top of the rocky path after about 40 minutes only to discover it was a false summit, we had to walk another 10 minutes on scree to reach Laguna de los Tres. All in all, it had taken a little over three and half hours to reach the lagoon and it was worth every minute. The lagoon was still frozen and had the towering mountain peaks as a backdrop. There were glaciers to the left and right and the sun was shining in the sky. There was a little bit of wind, but we found shelter behind a huge rock and had a lunch break in the warmth of the sun with the most incredible vista.

The walk back down was a bit quicker and only took about 40 minutes, which is quite fast for us because up and down normally take us the same time. We decided to take a different route back to town, it would be slightly longer but we could walk past Lagunas Madre and Hija towards the Rio Fitz Roy valley and follow it back to town.

It was a pretty easy track skirting along the side of the lagoons, mostly flat with the exception of a bit of downhill at the end. One thing that drove us nuts though was the flies. They were kind of like mosquitoes in size and shape and there were literally thousands of them. They didn't bite, they just swarmed and landed on your clothes, hair and face, which felt really uncomfortable. In the end, we seemed to run part of the track because of them and did it in record time.

We arrived at a crossing of tracks, heading uphill would take us towards Laguna Torre, but we needed to head down to El Chaltén, it was getting bit cloudy and we had walked for a long time already. The remainder of the track was easy and flat with the exception of little bit of uphill to the Mirador del Torre. With the cloud coming in we only saw a shilouette of the Torre although we did see it yesterday when we first arrived in town.

We continued down the hill and stopped to admire Cascada Margarita, a small stream coming all the way down the steep hillside and ending up in the Fitz Roy River.

It took 4.5 hours from our lunch spot at Laguna de los Tres and in total we had walked about 28km, not a bad effort. It was a long day but totally worth it, we'd had good weather today and thought it was best not to risk having bad weather tomorrow.

Despite the long walk, we weren't actually that hungry so we just bought some snacks and a bottle red wine instead of going out for dinner. We did of course have a spa bath in our room, which did wonders for our weary legs.