Up early and off to Koh Chang Island in Thailand. After much thought, discussion and deliberation we came to the conclusion that it would be less hassle to miss out Kep and Kmpot in Cambodia (as we would have had to double back on ourselves; and reading between the lines there's not that much there) and head for Koh Chang in Thailand. We decided against the Islands off Cambodia as they are not supposed to be as nice as the Thai ones and have a problem with rubbish.

The journey took forever to get going as the buses seem to have an arrangement to pick up various people and bits of luggage along the route. So much luggage was loaded on that I began to wonder if the bus would move. It's a little frustrating particularly as we do not know the time of the last ferry to Koh Chang and want to get there before sunset.

After a few hours we finally leave Phnom Penh and head off down towards Koh Kong Conservation Corridor and then to the Thai border. The journey is supposed to take 9 hrs including bus changes, boarder crossing and ferry so we hoped there would be no music blaring out. We hoped in vain but as experienced Cambodian bus travellers we had our ear plugs at the ready.

The bus journey takes forever and consequently as we creep through the Cardamon Mountains we work out that we are on Cambodian time and cross our fingers there will be a late ferry.

Through no-mans land and customs and into a mini bus (quiet exciting really) in Thailand for the final leg of the journey. It's amazing, the roads are suddenly flat, the bus is modern and shiny and the driver is suddenly on a mission to get us to the ferry on time... do we make it?

Yes and No, we miss the 6 o'clock ferry just, but we are told there is another one at 7.30pm. So we get the scrabble out and chat with George from Tasmania, and two German guys, one a lawyer who has been backpacking SE Asia for 30 years and a retired football hooligan from Berlin who has been on a visa run and can't wait to take George to Suzy's Bar to help celebrate his 21st birthday which happens to be today. George manages to avoid this treat when he and another quiet Argentine decide they will walk when the ferry docks and the rest of us jump on the baht bus once we have docked some 12hrs after we set off from Cambodia.

Finally get to Bang Bao and call the guesthouse for a pick up.. oh oh no can do as the handyman's largered up so it's more money to the baht bus (the local taxi mafia are minted) and we finally reach the Cliff Cottage Bungalows in pitch darkness around 10.30pm having just managed to buy some fruit milkshakes as we have not eaten much at all.

The Room is not exactly what we were hoping for (to say the least) but we guessed it might be a bit down to the journey and decide we'll make a judgement on the place in the morning. In the bright light of day we can see the giant ants and the pink mosquito net with holes even more clearly and we take about five mins to decide to move on.

There is a fine line between chabby chic and chabby sh** accommodation and this was emphasised when we booked alternative accommodation for £40 a night which was absolutely lovely including bus to private beach on fab white sand beach, superb room, the works, we are very happy bunnies.