Split. Nothing like you would expect. Yet, it is all that you would imagine it to be. Confusing? Yes. The people are really friendly and helpful. It is old - the old city dates back to at least the 4th century. The influences of different cultures can be seen everywhere - Italian, Venetian, Greek, Turkish. It's difficult to grasp just what it is to be Croatian. There doesn't appear to be a distinctly Croatian cuisine - pizza places are everywhere, restaurant menus are dominated by pasta dishes, even the seafood dishes have a distinctly Greek flavor.

A visit to the Ethnographic Museum doesn't shed much light on the cultural identity. The exhibits of traditional dress have distinctly Turkish overtones. As well, many of the traditions of weapon use were imported via the interaction with the Turks and Greeks in the mountainous regions. However, talking to the hotel staff, it is clear that Croats are fiercely proud of their identity and culture.

So, Split. A wonderful place. Even apart from the "official" attractions (Diocletian's Palace,Cathedral of St Dominus, Ethnographic Museum, Temple of Jupiter), walking the lane ways and squares in the inner city, you realize you are treading the path of history. Everything in the city is integrated as part of modern Split life. Old walls and ruins are used as places to rest tired legs, cafes are built into the city walls, apartments are built crumbling walls.

A few of things to note about Split, and Croatia in general:

• Split is one of the cleanest cities we have been in, even the gutters are devoid of rubbish
• Croatia has the cleanest public toilets we have ever seen
• The coffee varies widely from pretty good to river mud
• Restaurants are about 1/3 the price as the rest of Europe, but the food isn't as good
• The weather is really mild
• The practice of touting for business is non-existent in Croatia
• Begging is notable by its absence
• We haven't come across hordes of *****ian immigrants trying to sell knockoff handbags and watches (in Italy and France they are everywhere)

While there are signs that Croatia is embracing the concept of mass tourism, so far it is not overwhelmingly so. It still retains its pre-tourism charm to a great extent. If you get the chance, come and visit the place before it all changes.