The day dawned bright, some low cloud but bright warm sunshine and we were glad to be walking today and not yesterday (low cloud and rain). No time for second or nervous thoughts - straight off to the check in to get kitted out: Waterproof coats and leggings, woollen gloves and hat and most importantly - crampons! Having signed the usual disclaimers (walking on a glacier being hazardous etc etc and the reassuring knowledge that if Shirl had a problem with her asthma and had to be airlifted off we would pay for that!) we boarded the bus - 38 explorers and our guide (soon to be three).

A 2.5k walk up and down through bush - so many fern trees (apparantly it takes 200years for rainforest to fully grow) - brought us out to the bottom of the glacier, incredible how big it is and how small we are.

FG glacier has been in recession for 11years and will be for at least another 5 as that's how long it takes to turn a 'retreat' into and 'advance'. We traversed up a steep track of 'moraine' with tantalising glimpses of glacier glinting beneath us, then a pause to get the crampons on (so hard to walk in!) and to split into three groups with a guide each, 13 in our 'tortoise' group with Ryan, and the remainder into two with Tory and George. (Our all NZ guides are paid minimum wage, 10hour days, 5 days a week but clearly love what they are doing.) Then we were off and can only describe the day - 2+ hours on the ice, 6 hours all together as awesome and a real highlight of our trip.

Walking through and climbing up crevasses, in canyons, through an ice cave, over piles / dips of 'ice cubes', up and down ice steps (thank goodness for ropes in strategic places as some steps were very high and others had a narrow tread) all the while seeing the air bubbles trapped in the glacier, the amazing striations of colour, the many diagonal layers/stratas just looking like they could shear off any minute (not!), hearing the whoosh and thump as a bit falls off in some unseen place and hoping its not the way out, watching ice climbers enjoying the exertion and camaraderie (thank you Irishman for saving my bacon on at least two occasions) and the magnificence of blue colours and forms. Yes it was a bit wet, a little cool in places and exhausting but what a fabulous, fabulous experience, how lucky are we!

We were well taken care of, our guide constantly checking the route ahead, keeping in touch on his radio with the ever changing nature of the routes through and on the glacier as well as ensuring the ropes were always well secured. The Department of Conservation also have Rangers on the glacier all through daylight hours always monitering conditions and the Hiking company send out their guides early in the morning (the first trip is at 8.30am) to check and cut steps for us. If you ever get the chance - do it, just awesome!

Just to finish off we spent a very hot hour in a private spa pool to get rid of the aches and pains, lovely! Now going out for dinner and a beer. Sweet as! J