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So at 5.30am on Wednesday 9th November we were picked up by our bus to head off to the challange of the famous Inca Trail. Our worst fears were realised when we found out we were in a group containing New Zealand´s fittest family (an ex-national netball player - the mum, a triathlon athlete - the son, an equally fit dad and 2 sporty physiotherapists - daughter and husband)!
Located in the Andes mountains, this is a 42km path made by the Inca empire in the 15th-16th century. It is believed that the path was a ritual route from the Urabamba river through the mountains before finally arriving at the city known as Machu Picchu (although this really just means the nearby mountain - no one knows the name of the city...). There is actually a much shorter commercial route that the Incas used for day-to-day travelling.
DAY 1...
Surprisingly easy, loads of breaks and a gentle 12km. Was at a lower altitude than we were used to so we were surprisingly energetic. The porters or ´Chuskys´(which translates as fleet-foot runners), were astonishing. All smallish Quechua farmers, they carry 25kg on their backs and pretty much run up the trail in front of you to get to lunch stops/ camp sites and set everything up before the lumbering gringos pull in. Our first lunch was a massive shock. We found a tent complete with a fully laid table with a delicately arranged and garnished avocado salad. We continued with soup and and fantastic main meal. After lunch we were decidedly less energetic but very satisfied! From the first moment of the trek, the scenery was fantastic - snow capped mountains and rivers...
DAY 2
This is the day we had been worrying about. Although only 12km it is pretty much 8 hours uphill getting progressively steeper. Also, as the mountain pass is 4200m it gets harder and harder to breath. However, the day started off promisingly with coca tea served to us in our tents! In fact, as we were so worried about the uphill, it was actually easier than anticipated (helped by a ´Second Breakfast´provided by the ever astonishing Chef). The mountains are so beautiful that it takes your mind off tiredness and we kept looking back and being inspired by how far we had already walked. so we dragged ourselves to the top (thousands of steep stone steps) and all collapsed for a while, then off we went for a 3 hour downhill trek to our campsite. Arrived at 2pm, had a great 3 course lunch, 3 course dinner then early to bed in preperation for the next day
DAY 3
Today was billed as being easier, having succeded completing day 2 however it was rather tough. Another early start and straight away up steep stone steps to a 4000m mountain pass. Then 7 hours of up and down through twisting paths. This day however was super spectaclar as we hiked through 4 types of forests, going up and down through the clouds and walking along paths with sheer drops of hundreds of meters.
After about 12km we reached a section known as the ´Gringo Killer´ which is 2000 steep stone steps to decend. By now the knees are starting to hurt but then we came across some Llamas trotting up the steps! Very delightful.
After an hour we noticed the porters basically run down the steps using momentum to carry them down (not forgetting 25kg on their back!) so Dave and Emily decided to adopt this tactic. We overtook lots of people (most of them not very impressed by us pushing past!) and then all of a sudden Dave took a bad step and almost twisted his ankle. Emily then laughed that it would be typical that we fall over and all the people we pushed past arrive to see us on the floor. At that exact moment Emily completely stacked it, went face first to the floor, walking pole flying off and her legs dangling over the sheer drop. Bit of a scare but she got away with a few cuts and bruises. Two others in our group also fell with various injuries to show for it.
DAY 4
A super early start, 3.40am wake up. No time for tent service today as we had to get to the checkpoint asap to beat the crowds. Once through the check point at 5.30am we had to run 5km up and down steps to reach the Sun Gate. This is the ancient gate that overlooks the goal of our 4 day trek.
So success!!!
It was hard but not as hard as we had expected (we were literally terrified before we left!) We appear to be fitter than we thought. The altitude was not too much of a problem thanks to lots of chewing coca leafs (lets not forget that a coco leaf contains cocaine! It does help!!) and we achieved a lifetime dream of completing this most famous of all treks, the reward was the most stunning, beautiful and magical place we have ever seen......Machu Picchu
- comments
Pauline Sounds amazing - the views - the food - your stupidity in trying to run like natives right next to a sheer drop ................