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dave and emily latin america 2011-2012
A bus from La Paz to Sucre 715km away, sounds easy right? Well in Bolivia nothing is easy.
First of all we had a taxi booked from our hotel at 5pm (thats just under 2 hours before our bus departure) but it never arrived. So our helpful hotel owner flagged one down about 5:30pm, spent sometime ensuring they would not rip us off and then off we went.
The bus station is only 1km away but La Paz is the most bonkers city we have ever had the pleasure of visiting, and the traffic was unbelivable. Gridlock everywhere. Our gallant taxi driver tried all the Latin America tricks such as shouting, excessive horn beeping, driving on the wrong side of the road, flying into gaps that didnt existing but no luck.
He then decided to take us out the of centre and to the outskirts to try and come around all the traffic and arrive at the bus station from the otherside. But again we were stuck, only this time Dave and Emily had no idea where they were.
The time is now 6:20, the bus leaves at 6:45 so Dave and Emily had to bail out of the taxi in an unknown neighbourhood and head on foot with all their baggage to hopefully find the bus station.
After stubbling around (of course it now starts raining) Emily asks a man on the street where we need to go, and amazingly he decides to be our personal guide. He takes us through lots of busy streets, in and out of traffic and gets us to the station at 6:40pm. On the way he tells us to not take any food or sweets from anyone in or around the station, and avoid people spraying perfume at you (a tactic to distract you and steal your stuff!)
So Dave and Emily run into the station, get to the gate and are then told that we have to pay the ´bus station tax´ so some backtracking had to be done and 2 tax tickets purchased (we still cant figure out why they dont include it in the bus ticket price?)
Back to the gate and in we go. jump on the bus only to discover just before it departs that is it not our bus after all. So jump off and then finally find our platform (remember this is La Paz, nothing is clear and all is chaotic)
There we sit, and typically the bus is late arriving. Then we meet two friendly Swedish girls, we chat for a while when Emily mentions to them that they have not got much luggage, whereby they reply saying that you are suppose to hand it over at a check-in desk before you come to the platform!
So panic stations again! Out of the platform area and back into the main bus terminal where our bags are checked in. Then run back to the platform (again digging around for our bus tax tickets) when we get back to the platform our bus is there.
On we all get, and finally depart into the rain, thunder, lightning and traffic of La Paz. By this time poor Emily needs to the toilet but the bus toliet is locked. She asked the drivers helper and he just shouts at her saying ´Its too early!!!, you have to wait for 2 hours!!!´
Emily is not impressed.
After an hour of pushing through La Paz traffic we arrive at the outskirts city of El Alto (which iscan be descibed as a dodgy dive) where the bus stops, the doors open and they allow any dodgy person to come onto the bus to have a snoop around (any bags to steal?) or do a sales pitch to sell all kinds of random stuff.
This goes on for 2 hours, sitting there, with the door open, getting cold and countless people asking for money or trying to preach to us. All this time Emily is still not allowed to go to the toliet.
Eventually we depart and after some more crazy traffic we hit the open road. Emily sends Dave off to check the toliet, so off he goes down the aisle of the bus only to find people in the aisle and two dogs sleeping! After overcoming this assult course he finds the toliet is now for use, so off Emily goes only to find no light or running water...lets not forget this is a 14 hour bus ride!!!
To add more excitment, whilst trying to make his way through the El Alto traffic, our driver gets out and starts having a fight with another driver. Spitting, swearing you name it. All the time your helpless travellers are sitting in the stationary cold bus just looking on in amazement!
The rest of the night went by with less incidenta, many times people would head to the toliet only for a loud dog yelp to be heard when said person stood on one or both of our fellow dog passenger. Oh and the person sat behind us starts throwing up. Which doesnt help.
Eventually we arrived to our destination town of Sucre, where the sun was shining. Dave and Emily stepped off the bus bleary eyed and looking forward to a bed to recover in!
Bolivian public transport in an interesting experience. Unfortunately it looks like we are going to have to endure this a few more times before we get into Chile!
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