Day 66-69 in the world of Sam and Dani: We left Siem Reap on a 5 hour bus journey to Phnom Penh to visit the killing fields and S21.

The Killing Fields of Cheung Ek is 15km from Phnom Penh and is where thousands of people were killed and buried in mass graves under the Khmer Rouge regime. From 1975-1979, Pol Pot and his soldiers killed nearly one quarter of the Cambodian population, forcing thousands of civilians to work in the countryside on farms growing rice and labour projects or by executing them. Those who worked were doing so in an attempt to 'restart civilsation' in what was called 'year zero'. The Khmer Rouge ordered a complete evacuation of Phnom Penh and other major cities and towns saying that they had to leave for the countryside as America were going to attack. Once in the countryside they were forced to work. Pol Pot believed that peasants were the true working class and others were not suitable for the new movement. He targeted monks, muslims, educated people and the disabled. Some were sent to S21 camp for torturous interogation, whilst others were just executed. Many of those sent to work in the countryside died through a combination of slave labour, malnutrition and poor medical care.

Whilst walking around the killing fields we were able to see large pits that held hundreds of bodies. Each year the Mekong River overflows and when this happens bones, clothes and other remains of bodies raise to the surface. We saw this as we walked around and even saw teeth at the surface of paths. The guide who showed us around explained that rather than 'waste' bullets, soldiers would use axes, knives and bamboo sticks to kill people. Children were often hit against trees, and those soldiers who tried to escape/help were beheaded in a painful torture using the sharp edge of a palm leaf. In the middle of the area was a glass shrine called a Stupa that houses 8000 human skulls that had been recovered. We were told that people on the outside were unaware of what was occuring here; music was played loudly to hide the noises from those being killed. Thousands of people would be brought in lorries, none of which would leave. It was a horrible experience that left us wondering hoiw come this could happen so recently and why didnt any countries intervene?

We also visited Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocide, also known as S21 whilst in Phnom Pehn, which is where many were tortured before being taken to the Killing Fields. What used to be a school was transformed into a torture camp and prison under the Khmer Rouge. Inside there are weapons of torture on display, along with skulls, blood stains and photographs of thousands of people who were murdered there. Obviously being in that sort of place leaves you feeling very low, and wondering how on earth this was allowed to happen!

After all that we decided to have a look around the city to try cheer ourselves up. We visited the Russian Market, which was an experience, before we went on a mission to find the chocolate shop and wine market =) Phnom Penh itself isn't that great, very dirty and far too busy! The traffic system (well lack of) causes havoc with cars, tuk tuks and bikes driving everywhere! When we were there we also saw weird things being carried on bikes, a wicker basket full of piglets was our favourite, and a giant dead pig our worst, urghh!!

What we have noticed is that everywhere in Cambodia people wear pyjamas, but not for bed (well maybe) but during the day. Whats even funnier is that they are awful! You know the bright coloured ones with pictures on that you used to get of some relative at Christmas.. them!

Next stop Sihanoukville for sun, sea and sand =)