Tansania

Kenyan - Tansanian border

Oloikitiktok border crossing was quiet and the first stop was Kenyan customs to get the car stamped out of the country. At this point the man said I had to pay $40 for road tax to which I replied "for what the roads are s***" and he said if you don't pay we cant make them better ha ha what a joke. I then stamped our passports out of Kenya which makes me laugh as I stamped Jonnys passport into Kenya without him present and then stamped it out without him present and not once did they ask where he was. We then had to get visas for Tansania $50 each and then through customs for the car. 3 hours later we crossed the border and went from dry shrubs on flat plains in Kenya to lush green banana trees on the bottom slopes of mount Killimanjaro.

Lake Chala

Once across the border it was getting late and we only had an hour before dark, we don't do driving in Africa at night unless absolutely nessesary. The roads in Tansania are in really good condition but they are slow going as there are many villages along the roads and the speed limit is 30km/h (18miles/h) through each village. We decided to head for lake chala as I knew there was a campsite there and we got there just as the sunset. The next day we walked down to the crater lake and it was lovely and clear so decided to have a quick swim. I figured being a crater lake the edges where to steep for crocodiles (I hoped) and Bilharzia well I just had to hope it had not found its way there.

Moshi

Moshi well no reason to go unless you are going to climb mount Kilimanjaro, which we thought, was a complete rip off. It was a min of $1200 per person which also meant we could not find anywhere cheap to stay, when I told a lady at a hotel $10 for camping was to expensive she looked at me strangely and said but you are rich you have a car (African logic). We where were just about to head out of town and get away from all the tourists, we stopped for bread and a white guy came running down the road towards us. This is not a common occurrence in Africa and we looked at each other unsure of what was about to happen. Turns out James from Ireland was on a mission to find any overland travelers who had just travelled north Africa as we had for some information. In the end they followed us to a camp spot we had looked at earlier and the Irish got us extreamly drunk on a mix of local African beer and some special spirits from the back of their car (good night).

Pangani River camp

We had not seen the sea since we collected our car in Alexandria Egypt so we set off for the Tanzanian Indian Ocean. First a stop at the side of the road to buy some fruits and veg. Not sure many of the locals had seen a white person before as I was surrounded but got loads of freshies for cheap. After a few hours of driving we spotted a camp spot right on the river which was run by locals and cheap so we decided to chill by the river for the afternoon. A stunning setting with a great sunset and at night lots of bushbabies where about in the trees. Another couple from South Africa pulled in Ian and Kiera so we sat up chatting to them till late about Africa on the road and its challenges.

Asumbara Mountains

We set off up the Asumbara mountains with the intention of a short visit so we did not full up on Diesel. First stop was Irente view point for some lunch and wow what a view over the valleys. Jonny got chatting to a local guy who was stoned so we had to listen to him tell us stories for ten minutes. We then made the decision to drive to Mtae which was known for its amazing views and even a view over Killimanjaro. The roads on the way up where a bit of a challenge as many where washed away in the wet season and never rebuilt plus it was all mud roads. We stopped in a small village for a soda and peoples faces where funny don't think they had ever seen a white guy before. Eventually we stumbled on a lodge right on the mountain edge which we thought would be well out of our price range but they did camping and so we had our own private terraced camp spot for the car with an amazing view all for $10 a night. Coming down off the mountains we decided to take the road less travelled and wow it was scary. Steep decent on rocks/mud with roads wide enough just for the car and sharp bends. I caved in and asked Jonny to drive and so it was low box all the way down and then a dry river bed with a broken bridge to cross and we where out.

Peponi Beach Camp

On route from the mountains down towards Dares Salam we decided to stop at a camp spot on the Indian ocean for a few days as we had not seen the sea since Egypt. What a lovely spot right on the beach front so we slept to the sounds of waves lapping every night. The camp spot "Peponi" even had a swimming pool for when the tide was out and a traditional Dhow boat to take you out snorkeling. However 3 years in Antarctica not in a bikini meant I burnt my arse really badly while snorkeling for 3 hours and had trouble sitting for 5 days.

We were hoping to get a boat to Zanzibar from here but it did not work out so we headed to Dares Salam to brave the ferries.

On route to Dares Salam we decided to pull in at a local village for some lunch which is always entertaining. I spotted a bar called Davinas Bar (which says it all) and we got a soda and a chip ommlette which was nice enough and cheap. When we arrived they were playing music and there was a guy freestyle dancing on his own in the middle of the bar for 20 minutes before they through him out…..very funny but then that's what you get when you eat locally.

OK more to come on Tanzania adventures will upload more soon but have put up the pictures