Ethiopia

YOU, YOU, YOU

PEN, MONEY, FOOD

After crossing the border from Sudan (45 Degrees) into Ethiopia (green lushious mountains) it was a welcoming change. Not only had we been craving a slightly cooler temperature that allowed you to sleep at night but also a nice cold beer (no alcohol in Egypt or Sudan as it was Ramadan and both very muslim).

Sudan - Ethiopia border wildcamp spot

Jonny flew Home from Khartoum (Sudans Capital) and the next day we (me and a Polish couple in a transit van) drove down towards the Ethiopian border which was a great 8 hour transition drive and found a wildcamp spot just off the road down a dirt track in the green. That evening it poured with rain for 5 hours and the dirt track we had driven down was now knee deep mud. In the morning we had walked the track and tried to suss out the best route but just as I was about to try 100 cows walked down the track and churned up all the mud. I did manage to get the truck out and back on the road but it was not pretty. However our Polish friends in their van got bogged in the mud and there was no getting out. I quickly learn the Arabic for tractor as I drove to the nearest village to ask if they had a tractor to help. After 30 minutes a local man with his trusty landrover and the cost of 50 SDP came to the rescue. Everyone was covered in mud and now we were off to the border to cross into Ethiopia.

Border Crossing

As African borders go it was not to painful.

1. Get a stamp in the carnet to show the car has left Sudan. It took 1 hour as man could not find his stamp. I also exchanged some money into Ethiopian Birr but got a bad rate.

2. Immigration building to get my passport stamped out and exit form filled in. Timing was 1 hour as there was a woman in tears for not being allowed entry in Sudan and they had no pens.

3. Immigration into Ethiopia, passport and visa checked finger scans and photo taken took about 20 mins

4. Customs to get the car passport stamped into the country and car contents checked. Took 1 and half hours.

Ethiopia

So I was in and heading for the northern town of Gonder. The Sat nav reckoned 3 hours which meant we would make it before dark (I don't do driving in Africa in the dark way to risky). Unfortunately the Sat Nav does not take into account the hundreds of people, cows, donkeys and goats in the roads which means every 200m you are stopping. Small children chase the car and throw stones shouting Forangi (foreigner to the Ethiopians) and money or pens. As Gonder is high in the mountains the sun sets earlier as well and so we found ourselves having to drive into Gonder in the dark. Not an experience I would like to repeat as there are no street lights, locals drive with their full beams on blinding you, there are pot holes in the roads, there are many people and wildlife in the roads and you are trying to follow the Sat Nav as you have no idea where you are. Luckily a local boy jumped on the side of the car and seemed to know which hotel I was headed for (Belegez pension turns out to be the tourist hot spot) and he hung on there shouting right and left. The hotel had a courtyard so I pitched the tent on the car and spent the evening chatting to people from all round the globe.

Next day took a walk round Gonder town, which looked lovely in the daylight, a great mountain setting. This was my first experience off the poor chickens. The Ethiopians like to buy their chickens fresh so people walk round town with the chickens hanging upside down tied by their legs to a stick waiting to be bought (poor things). In Ethiopia you do feel a little like pide piper as soon as you leave the hotel there are many street children in tow and before you know it there are 30 of them. One child with blood on his feet asked for shoes, many ask for pens and most food. Spent a few days in Gonder sorting a few things for the car and buying third party car insurance (trust me the amount of livestock on the roads you want it and it does not work using the argument it should not have been on the road).

Left Gonder and headed north into the mountains up gravel tracks which had stunning views. 30 km up the weather closed in and we were in the fog which I was not comfortable driving in so we stopped at an eco lodge near by. Turned out to be right on the mountain edge and once the fog cleared it had a stunning view (Kossoye eco lodge $10 per person to camp). It rained heavily as we arrived in the Ethiopian mountains in rainy season (I know good timing) but with the roof tent up it provides a great shelter for cooking. Next day we took a local guy (could not speak English but had a gun and knew the way to see many baboons) and we went trekking for a few hours through the mountains.

Bahir a Dar

After a day driving through beautiful scenery arrived at Lake Tana and found Ghion Hotel had a garden on the lake where we could camp for 100 birr (£4) per car and they even gave us a key for a room so we could have the first hot shower since Turkey. Next day headed for the Blue Nile falls which I had been told an hour mini bus drive on a very bumpy road. Turns out they don't love their cars as much as I do as it took me 2 hours on muddy, gravel and bumpy road. Great drive though through many local villages and many small children waving (with only the odd one firing cow poo at your car, arrived with 5 poo splats on the back). At the office for the falls got out the car and within seconds I was bombarded with…..

· Buy something from my shop

· Give me money

· Pen, Pen, Pen

· Shoes, Shoes buy me shoes

· Cold water

· Guide you need a guide

Parked by the river and paid a guy 10 birr (30 pence) to watch the car for me. A beautiful 1 hour walk up to the falls through some local villages followed by many children. Walked right down to the falls feeling the spray and they were in full flow as we visited near the end of the rainy season. Back in town I found a local boy who spoke a bit of English to go round the market with me as it means you don't get ripped off being foreign and a great experience.

The next day took a boat trip on lake Tana out to the islands to visit the monasteries. A little 15hp boat engine for 6 people meant it was a day trip but great experience and cost 200 birr each which is £8.

Jonny was due to Land at Addis Ababa (The Capital) on Sunday evening and so as it was a long way and roads unreliable I decided to make the journey from Bahir a Dar to Addis on the Saturday. It was an 11 hour drive of which 7 hours where on good tarmac and 4 hours were on a hellish road of which I would not like to drive on again. On the plus side the bit with bad roads was absolutely stunning scenery as it dropped down through a canyon. Tough long drive on my own and I was racing against the time as I did not want to get to Addis in the dark. I arrived in Addis at 6pm so half an hour before dark but then sat in traffic as there were parades for the priminister of Ethiopia who had just died.

Managed to find a hotel in the Piazza with a secure car park, Baro Hotel 170 birr (£8) for a double with bathroom turns out it is where local men take woman (many prostitutes in the area I chose) for a night but was to tired to worry and had a good sleep. Sunday the Priminister Meles funeral so went to the Piazza and joined the hundreds to watch on the big screen which was a great atmosphere.

Jonny flew back with Turkish Airlines and got in at 12.15 at night and so opted not to drive and pick him up instead took a taxi which waited and bought us back. It was great to have Jonny back, I had some great experiences but always nice to have someone to share them with. I was worried how he would feel flying staright into Addis and Ethiopia without the time to adapt but he took to it straight away and really likes Ethiopia. We stayed in Addis for 2 days and got our Kenya visa sorted, food shopping and gave the car some TLC and then we were BACK ON THE ROAD AGAIN and headed for the Awash National Park.

Awash National Park

All the campspots where very wet from the over flowing Awash river and the lodge wanted $15 to camp so we just headed off into the bush and found a nice spot to set up camp (technically not allowed to wildcamp in the national parks). The next morning we where having breakfast when a family of about 20 baboons went past. The Awash falls where great to see as we where there during raining season and they where huge. We also decided to drive the 30km to the hot spring which was a roughish track but saw many warthogs and waterbuks. The place was stunning, in the middle of no where and just a scout (man with a gun) and a baboon research scientist. We decided to spend the night and in the afternoon walked the few kilometres with the scout to the hot sping. The hot spring was stunning surrounded by palm trees and you could see the bottom the water was so clear. We jumped in for a swim but it was about 45 degrees and so you could only last a short while before feeling dizzy. That evening we sat round a fire chatting with the two locals and then during the night we had a big storm and could hear hyena calls.

Lake Langano

The last lake which is safe to swim in Africa as no crocodiles or Bhilharzia. We found a campsite right on the beach of the lake owned by a guy from America but who was born and grew up in Ethiopia. A great place to chill and relax.

Shashemane

The rastafarean town in Ethiopia where everyone speaks like they are from Jamaica and they are all high on weed or chewing chat, a type of leaf with good properties. We stopped here so I could get some food shopping; a small 2 year old boy washed the carrots for me. While I was shopping Jonny was sat in the car surrounded by 15 kids and a few stoned teenagers trying to persuade him to sponsor their education.

Awassa

Camped by the lake surrounded by hundreds of Columbus monkeys and toucans. We met an American couple travelling in Ethiopia she was a journalist and now unable to write for the papers as the priminister had just died. We went out for beers together at a local shack, which was entertaining. I got some leaves in my beer glass so I ate one as it smelt like vanilla but 10 minutes later I had a numb oesophagus mmmmmmm.

Sodo

This was just a town we decided to stop in to break up some of the journey. I don't think they have ever seen any foreigners here which made a walk round the town interesting but nice to see a non touristy spot.

Arba Minch and Nar Sar National Park

As we arrived in Arba Minch early we decided to head for the Nar Sar national park and camp in their for the night. Just after we entered the roads turned really muddy and then we found ourselves driving into water. Jonny said "this is not a road this is a river" oh no it was the road just the river had overflowed due to rainy season. We saw some beautiful views and hippos but decided not to stay and camp incase more heavy rain fell that night and we where at our water level limit on the car. Instead we found a hotel in town with a camp area over looking the lakes and national park (stunning view) and so we stayed 2 nights. Turns out it was the Ethiopian new year while we where here they celebrated the end of 2004 and into 2005 (very weird). Some local lads gave us a glass of Tej which is their local made honey wine but wow it was strong and my head was spinning after half a glass.

Key Afar

After passing many tribal people on the way through the Omo Valley we finally arrived in the small town of Key Afar. While driving through we spotted another Toyota Land cruiser in a small decent looking Hotel so pulled in and asked their rate for camping for the night. Turns out they wanted 100 birr which is £4 for the both of us so bargain and the camp spot was on grass between tress so all looked good. The Toyota belonged to David and Lydia from South Africa and they where travelling north so we sat and chatted over a few beers. As the sun set we soon realised that the small round looking bar in the middle of the hotel was actually a brothel and we where camped just outside the brothel. Jonny and I both said well neither of us has camped outside a brothel before. Some how even over the loud music Jonny managed to get a good night sleep and lets just say I am glad we did not get a room there.

The next day we went down to the market which was just getting going but very colourful and many tribal dressed people which was interesting. Jonny and I were followed round by many small children and when I bought some bananas one asked me for one and was so happy when I gave it to him. The problem is children follow asking for money or pens now they followed asking for bananas. We stoked up on some freshies and then hit the road for Jinka.

Jinka

The first impression of Jinka was not great as the roads where awful with big holes and the river you need to cross where there is suppose to be a bridge, well it was not there.

We then decided to camp at Jinka Resort which was a lovely spot buried among trees (which for Ethiopia is rare as only 2% of its original forest remains) but we must have driven through a dead animals and so had a throat gagging stench with us for some time. Anyway we had come here as we where keen to visit the Mursi tribe which lived inside Omo national park (one of the least accessible national parks).

The next day we set off with Mamo a local guide and drove the 2 hours through some stunning scenery to arrive at a small Mursi village. We spent an hour sitting and mainly smiling at them due to the language barrier, they where fascinated by things like hair ties, watches, sunglasses and we were fascinated by them. The Mursi are the tribe which have the long drooping ears and where they cut their lips and put plates in to extend the hanging lip. It was a great experience and then we drove back into town and had some local Ethiopian food (Injera with vegetables as it was a Friday and on Fridays they don't eat meat).

Turmi

Camped by a dry river bed and when taking a walk down it we met 5 children from the Hamar Tribe which initially where interested in money but we spent 2 hours playing hop scot and sticks ect that they changed their tune and we had a great experience. We stayed to see bull jumping which is a Hamar tribe ceremony where a boy has just jump over 10 bulls to become a man and during the ceremony many woman are wiped to show their respect for the men (quiet a harsh thing to watch). The Hamar people are beautiful to look at but use animals fats in their hair so often a bit pongy and most woman are topless (however those breasts have had a hard life). I qued up at the water pump which was a well with many Hamar tribe to get our water stocked up before we left to drive through Lake Turkana and over the border to Kenya. Don't thing they had ever seen a foreigner at their water pump before and one of the Hamar woman was not impressed with the speed I pumped the water and so took over for me.

Omo Valley Lake Turkana border crossing into Kenya

The road heading to Omorate was out of our way but the last Ethiopian town before crossing into Kenya so we had to get ours and the cars exit stamp. We pulled onto the small bush track to head for the border and decided to have some lunch. I did the 360 and there was no one around but half way through our sandwiches a Hamar Tribe woman showed up (topless) and so Jonny gave up his half a sandwich, cant think why. The drive went through many dry river beds and some deep sand but also past through many small villages which was interesting to see. We crossed the border and drove along the northern part of Lake Turkana where we decided to wildcamp right on its shores which was stunning. So thats the end of our Ethiopian adventures we both loved out time in Ethiopia and now Kenyan Adventures start