Border crossing Tanzania Mtumbaswala to Mozambican Ngemano

Leaving Tar Mac and an hour and half of bush driving before we reached the border. Much of this area of bush was burnt for charcoal which was sad to see and many large terrestrial snails looked to have been caught in the fires. 1km before the bridge we hit Tar Mac and the Tanzanian customs and Immigration. The Tanzanian officials where efficient and over the impressive Unity bridge we went. Mozambican officials where efficient as well and I managed to change a bit of money for the local Meticash. Just past the bridge we where pulled over by an official looking chap he said hello and I don't speak English but can I have water so we gave him some and then 200m the Tar mac ended and we where back to bush track. We then had 3 hours of off road bush track to do with no views except dead trees and burning. 2 hours in a police check point and we could tell they where looking for anything they could possibly find on us but sadly for them all our paperwork and the car was in good order and they had to let us on our way. We made it all the way back to the Indian ocean and a town called Mocimba de Pria by 6pm and just as it was going dark. We pulled into one lodge to ask if we could camp and he tried to charge us 1000meticals each which is £20 each maybe he could tell we had just arrived in the country but we moved on. Luckily there was a camp site next to it which charged 300 meticals £6 per person which is the going rate in Mozambique which is the most we have had to pay for camping in all our journey south. The showers where interesting as they were out in the open and the walls only came up to chest height so boobs out on display.

Pangane

We set off south and according to the map a Tar mac road or atleast it may have been many years ago. Now it was horrendous to drive on as it was gravel with spots of tar mac. It was worth it though as 7 hours later we arrived at the Indian ocean and then 30 minutes of beach driving we arrived at Pangane. Pangane was a small local fishing village and the chief of the village had a camp spot right on the beach at the end of the peninsula and we where the only ones there, perfect. Within minutes of us arriving there where many locals all stood 10m back staring at the white people in their village. The shower was an old fuel drum filled with water and a shower head attached to the end, only you had to squat to fit under the nozzle. The beach had turquoise waters and white sand and it was part of the Quirimbos archipelago. We spent our time swimming, snorkeling, laying in the hammock and playing beach volley with some of the local naked children.

Pemba

Driving into Pemba we had this vision of a quiet sleepy fishing town as you read in the books. Not anymore as the Italians have found gas 2km under the sea and have set up drill ships and therefore there are many foreigners here earning big money and the town is really busy. It is also extreamly expensive as these boys working the gas are happy to pay £5 for some tomatoes I however am not so we went without. We got stopped by the police for a random check but luckily the police were amused by how many vehicles we are allowed to drive on Jonnys license and let us on our way. We went to camp at Pemba dive and bush camp which had its own personal beach spot, kayaks ect. We walked down to the beach just as a rib was leaving and they invited us along for a sunset spin round the bay which was great. Turns out the boat belonged to the South African special forces who where out working security for the gas rig (against pirates and locals) and the boys where off for the night. We where invited out for a braai and beers so next thing we knew we were in the 4 x4 heading across town with a bunch of drunk Afrikaners. I must say it was a true Afrikaans blokey braai as there was amazing steak, boreworse and beer none of the potato and salad crap as they put it. At 1am we took a car back to the port where they smuggled us in past security and into the rib where we were driven across the bay at high speed to our camp site…….all totally crazy and great fun. Somehow Jonny and I managed to pitch our tent a little tipsy with no incident.

We arranged with the boys to go snorkeling the next day at 8am and we managed to get up and to the beach but they did not show till 10 and by then the winds had picked up so we headed out but the seas where far to rough and we hung on for our life as we tried to make it back. I think our grips where stronger as we knew we were in bull shark territory.

Ilha de Mozambique

We camped on the beach looking at the 3.5 km long bridge (all lit up at night) and over to Mozambique Island. It was a beautiful camp spot but sadly we woke at 4am to heavy rain which continued all day. Pscked up and drove across to the island but as it was a Friday (muslims have Friday off) and raining it was very quiet and not much open so we had a look at then decided to head up the coast towards Nacala. Mozambique island is a world heritage site but in bad disrepair and in between the old building people live in squalor. First stop the market to buy some food, one guy tried to sell me 5 peppers for equivalent of £5 and when I told him that was very expensive he just shrugged his shoulders. Sadly you did get the feeling that the locals did not want foreign people there and often did not make your life easy.

On route to Nacala which was dirt track and mud it rained heavily and the car slide on some mud into some bamboo trees luckily no big damage just rear side fender. You drive through many local villages where you always get suicidal ducks, chickens and goats luckily we have good breaks.

Nacala

Found a bakery where we managed to buy some Portuguese rolls best bread we had tasted since Sudan. Camped at Libelula right on the beach looking over Nacala bay. Next day we went into town to try and find some fibre glass to fix the fender on the car tried 20 shops but no luck (thought with all the boats in the area it would we easy).

Went snorkeling off the beach had the beach to ourselves and many fish, small reef and great visibility.

Decided we would like to do some diving in Mozambique and had been recommended Nuarro Lodgo slightly north of Nacala which has continental shelf just 150m off the beach. The lodge is $300 a night to stay there but they had generator problems so they let us camp on their helicopter deck for free as Jonny helped fix the generator and we got to use the lodge facilities for a few days. Sadly no diving as their compressor was broken but excellent snorkeling, large reef, abundant marine life and great vis.

Mozambique Coast to Malawi

There is not a lot to do and see inland Mozambique (the coast is amazing but that is all Mozambique has got) and we had a long drive to the Mozambique/ Malawi border on not great roads. Our first stop was Nampula the last town to get supplies so we stoked up on fuel, water and bits of food (food supper expensive as imported from South Africa). Camped at Mongtes camp just 15km our of town inbetween some large rock formations and an artificial lake. It was a great camp spot but the owners where miserable and unwelcoming.

Next day we had a 9 hour drive along dirt, dust, corrugations, road constructions ect ect to Cuamba. Cuamba nothing special but atleast a small guest house where we could camp in their court yard and somewhere to get some food. Next morning it was just 2 hours to Mandimba and the border crossing. The crossing was quick and easy and did not cost us anything. Malawi you get a 30 day visa for free which was a first and they did not even as for road tax. As soon as we where over the border and into Malawi we where on Tar Mac and the vibe we got from the country was very good. The people here are supper friendly and smiley even though they have very little. Lake Malawi is huge and on occasions it feels like being by the sea.

Next will be our Adventures in Malawi

Hope you are all well

Lots of love

Jonny and Terri