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As time is quickly running out on us at this point we have to squeeze in another Bolivian highlight after 3 consecutive nights on buses. The 6 hour journey obviously ends up being nearer 10, so we get to Uyuni at 4am, then crawl from our warm beds to start the tour of the salt flats for 9. Why we did that? I don't know-because the agency wasn't even open. In fact it didn't open until we kind of broke in, and eventually left at 11!
Joining us in the jeep we had another young English couple, Amy and Alan, and an older couple, Joe and Roxanna (American and Bolivian) from La Paz.
Day 1- Salar de Uyuni is the largest salt flat in the world, so we barely touch upon the 12 0000 square km, even in a day of driving over it. We see the highlights which include the salt hotel (aptly named, as the entire building is made out of the locally available material-salt), Isla del Pescado (less obviously named because there is funnily enough not a fish in sight, being a desert)-an island of huge cacti, then finally this insane cemetery where the bones are still in the open tombs. The people had been mummified so are still surprisingly intact showing freaky alien-like shaped skulls! It was amazing to see, but apparently not to listen to as our confused guide gave the same talk 4 times over!
Day 2- We realise how lucky we are to have such a lovely group on day 2 as we have to spend quite a lot of time in the jeep with them. We're taken to 3 lagoons, and possibly the moon?? The landscape is like nothing we have ever seen, we feel like we could've landed on another planet! There's the red lake full of flamencos, a stone tree, and a wild chinchilla who joins us for lunch, just to add to the surreal setting. Unfortunately for Chris, food poisoning is not pleasant no matter where you are. But stuck in a jeep on a relentlessly flat, open, toilet-less landscape, the salt flats are less than ideal. Being in this predicament, he had no choice but to enjoy a 'poo with a view' at the red lake behind a solitary concrete hut, the only kind of structure for literally miles around...Bolivia has its own unique price to pay for all its wonderful sights!
Day 3- sees us up at 4.30am, absolutely exhausted after not much sleep. Turns out we were resting at about 5000m above sea level! Chris is still feeling very ill, and there's nothing quite like the stench of sulphur in the morning to make you feel better, so we head for the incredible geizers that are belching out the most god awful smell (think eggs...lots and lots of very bad eggs). Our treat from the high volcanic activity comes in the form of the natural thermal baths. We have to bravely strip down to our bathers, in freezing temperatures, but the water is toasty and the only challenge that awaits us now is getting back out!
We did drag ourselves away, and expertly perform the traditional British beach 'under the towel changing', manoeuvre, eat breakfast then head for more colour changing lakes. Today should be the green one,but the winds not stirring up enough of the minerals to give us that postcard picture colour, so we carry on to the Chilean border where Chris and I are dropped off ready to go to San Pedro de Atacama. It's a good way to end (what can only be described as) an adventure through Bolivia!
The journey is slow and our entire luggage is checked at the border, but eventually we arrive in the dusty, expensive, but surprisingly pretty town. We waste the day eating empanadas and sitting in the square before catching a bus out that same evening. However, when we arrive at the bus terminal there is not a soul in sight. Our bags have been locked away in the kiosk that was holding them for us, and just to add to the situation, the whole towns in a black out! After nearly knocking down a door to get attention at the office, we are informed that we are too late... as there's a time difference! I had no idea we had gone forward an hour, but there is nothing to be done but find some hard to come by cheap accommodation, and book the same trip for tomorrow. (Oops.)
It does mean we get some much needed sleep, and have a look around the very interesting museum. It tells us all about the indigenous people from the area, but I fear Chris found the beautiful wooden ceiling more fascinating! This time, we manage to catch our bus!
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