Potosi

From the jungle we had one more hellish Bolivian bus ride to get us to La Paz, where we spend the day frantically running around doing laundry, buying a charango(!) and posting stuff home. It was a stressful nightmare, and left us in no mood for another overnight bus, but time was against us, and we had to move on to Potosi.

We arrive in the highest city in the world (4200m) freezing cold at 5am. Our plan is to get a tour of the silver mines then get going to Uyuni so we just have a couple of hours to wait at the Koala Den. The tour starts by dressing us in ridiculous protective clothing then taking us to the miners market. Here we learn that other than tourism this is the only career choice available to the men of Potosi. At the time of our visit there were approximately 5000 men (and boys-they can start at any age) working there, but at its peak that would've been double. We can buy them gifts at the market to help with the harsh conditions they have to endure.

We go for the 96% alcohol (-that we got to taste first. Chris drank it like water, then compared it to whisky, while I damn near choked to death at only 9.30 in the morning!), soft drinks and enough dynamite for gifts and a demo. Our guide carried our water and presents, then gave us a quick tour of the mineral refinery before taking us to the entrance of the mine. The section we get shown around is called Candelaria, and there are about 200 workers there spread over the 5 levels. I am pretty nervous about getting claustrophobic- and for good reason!

The conditions are horrific. We are told that we will all leave with a new appreciation for our jobs back home-and our guide is right within 5 minutes! It's so hot and dusty, and we're at a high altitude so we all struggle to breath. Within an hour our throats feel raw and we're talking like Rod Stewart (post cancer). It's exhausting moving up and down levels, either crawling or climbing rickety ladders through narrow passages.

We meet several workers who give us a demonstration of the mining methods they have used for hundreds of years. Chris tries his hand at some of the very physical stone breaking and hammering a rod into a wall for the dynamite. He's a good recruit! I of course would've had a go, but women are not allowed to work in the mine, as the men think they will bring bad luck (no 'womens rights' complaints here). Within an hour and a half in the mine, I am done and want to get out, but know I have only 45 minutes max. The miners, on the other hand are self employed and will work a 24 hour shift if necessary to earn enough money. They simply work with a partner or in groups, and then pay a percentage to the cooperative for their taxes. During their shift they won't eat any food because it gets contaminated and makes them sick, so all they do is chew the precious coca leaves and drink. Could this job get any more miserable?!

Finally it is time to leave, but first we're offered one more challenge. I'm not keen but the whole group choose the more difficult exit so I have little choice. It is a steep narrow tunnel to get up to the higher levels to the exit-and my nerves could have really done without it! I have to fight past an extremely tall Swiss guy who was having so much trouble squeezing through the gaps it was taking too long for me to deal with the lack of space, and the feeling of being trapped. But we make it, and after going through the weird museum we are out! I'm proud I managed the whole thing, and it's an experience we'll never forget-or ever repeat!