Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
In 2011 I did what I consider one of my best trips to date. It was another cruise but this time with my friend Jill who was a recent cruise convert. Our other friends called us mad. After all, the cruise we had chosen to do, was a one time itinerary called Red Sea Magic, focusing on Egypt and Israel.
We booked it in may as we were both away in June and we started organizing the said time off and discussing what we would like to do in each port. However on returning from our respective trips we heard that our cruise had been cancelled.
Both Jill and I were far from impressed by this and we made our feelings known. But after very little discussion we both agreed we weren't willing to give the trip up entirely; and so we swapped it for the Egypt and Holy land cruise which was a few stops less than our original one.
So the new plan would be to fly to Marmaris, and join Thomson Celebration ( it would be my 2nd time on this ship) to sail to Egypt, Israel and Cyprus before returning to Turkey for one last stop.
But of course, as with anything involving me, this too had its own set of issues .......
.....For starters we were flying into storms in Turkey....
Now as it turned out we were actually very lucky because while we suffered our fair share of turbulence during our 4hr flight, we later met people who were diverted to airports in completely different regions. There were even a few abandoned landing attempts shortly before we arrived in Dalaman- an experience that neither Jill nor I would relish.
So after dodging the worst of the torrential rain, we dashed on board Celebration and made for our assigned cabin. Knowing how little time we would be spending inside, Jill and I had chosen the rock bottom price when booking. So you can imagine our surprise when we realized that our cabin was actually a 3 berth one with huge amounts of space- more than any cabin I've ever had, including the upgraded ones I've shared with Annie!
Anyway we spent some time unpacking and then we went to get something to eat before making our way to the 'welcome on board' show. Because of the storms, the sail away party had relocated to the Liberties bar which we were soon ushered into. And it wasn't long before Jill was up on the dance floor making friends with everyone she met. And she even guilted me into joining her....for a very brief period of time!!
As you may have guessed by now, Jill is my complete opposite. We met sometime in 2008 I believe, while Jill was working a few doors down from Jeannette and I. After a rather bizarre work day she came in all frazzled and talkative and with both Jill and Jeannette being people persons, they quickly got chatting. Before long Jill was joining us on nights out and we were soon all good friends...
.Anyway, I digress!.............
After a couple of hours in Liberties we headed outside as it was still warm and we were heading out of the storms. It was truly a surreal but amazing time as we sat outside with clear skies and a nice view of the moon ahead but looking the other way we saw planes flying towards us with lightening surrounding them! We were mightily glad not to be on those!
It came as no surprise that with the storms our itinerary had to change as the open sea was too dangerous for us to sail across. Instead we would do the ports in reverse, with us doing the closer port of Antalya in place of Alanya. This was disappointing as we had looked into Alanya before leaving home and had found that it was meant to be a very scenic place. Not only that but Jill had spent considerable time in Antalya in the past and had been looking forward to experiencing somewhere new. But with it just being one of those things we decided to take the shuttle bus into the town, and I would follow Jill's lead for the day... again, this was to be a very enlightening experience!
You see Jill has spent many years travelling with a lot of that time spent in Turkey so the day in Antalya ended up being a lesson in haggling for me. And despite knowing how innately nice Jill is, I still cant believe how she coaxes people into agreeing to her price while still being embraced by all! Its a true talent and not one I've seen in too many people!
We spent a lot of time to begin with at a stall with cooking spices, teas and real turkish delight. Jill charmed her way - and mine- into many samples and then got us both great deals on a selection of products while happily chatting away with the vendors. We then moved on until a bag caught Jill's eye and after much haggling and faux walking away Jill got the vendor to to meet her at just 12 euros which was much less than what he had been asking.
During our walk through the market Jill decided to let people assume I was her daughter and to this day it remains a running joke between us Jeannette will become my aunt if the 3 of us are out together
From here we left the bazaar and began looking for some lemonade and coke...no not because we were thirsty but because with the unique rules Thomson have, we could buy and drink alcohol in our stateroom so we had decided to go halves on a bottle of Pimms and were in need of a mixer!
Along the way we passed a precinct where I saw a dress that I quite like so I dragged Jill in for a closer look. After a few minutes a very attractive model like guy turned up....the only thing was he spoke very little english but I think this may have worked in my favor during my first bartering attempt! In the end I got the deal I was looking for but only after he got someone else to help translate and I still don't think he quite understood until the money was exchanged... Still, Jill then managed to one up me and use the confusion to get an even better deal....after getting the young guy to try said dress on..... good times!
Before heading back to the ship I suggested visiting another Bazaar I had seen signs for and so off we went. The first few stalls were well overpriced and not worth haggling so we kept going until a knockoff Prada handbag caught my eye. Now I'm not one to go mad about handbags but this one I loved. I cant say I did as well at bartering as Jill but she didn't drag me away horrified, so I cant have done too badly.
Our last stop was with 'Brett'...sigh! Brett was a very charming guy who like most Turks put his flirtation skills to good use! I've got to admit, it might be fake as hell but it's also good fun! I just wish we'd taken some more pics of the people we met while in Antalya as no one stayed a stranger for long while with Jill. But as it is I have good memories of some new experiences that make me smile when I think of them so that cant be bad.
Back on the ship we 'inspected' our purchases and ended up eating in the Lido where I meet Jill's new friend 'José' a lovely guy who absolutely made our cruise! He went above and beyond in looking after us and I have to say many of the waiters on this cruise would remember us and joke with us much more than any other cruise I've done. I loved each and every one of them and still smile whenever one of José's fb messages pops up. (Hes now following his passion on stage back in the Philippines as a very talented performer)
Upon arriving in our next stop Larnaca, I once again followed Jill's lead as she had previously spent 6 months in Cyprus. We walked along the seafront on a sunny day heading towards the pretty Larnaca Castle. When we reached it we were surprised to find it only cost 1.50 euros to enter when back home it would have been a minimum of £6. We enjoyed looking around and found it interesting that the church aspect was once used as the gallows the last execution having been in the late 1940's.
After some stops in small craft shops etc we reached Lazarus Church, where we were lucky enough to go inside. Our first stop was the Tombs which were crowded with people filling empty bottles with holy water. They would have a half dozen or so bottles per person! Back in the main part of the church Jill and I took our time looking around and just before we left we witnessed an impromptu pray. This was extremely moving to see/hear and we decided to linger until it was over.
Back on board Celebration I had to attend a meeting about our stops in Israel and Egypt before getting ready for our formal evening. Being with Jill there was no doubt that we would be attending it so we started on the Pimms as we got dressed and after a slight difference of opinion on my jewelry selection (I caved on one but held strong on the other piece) we headed out to have our picture taken with the 'dishy' captain....
The next morning I had an early start- almost as bad as when I'm at home and going to work- so I did my best to get ready in the dark and not to wake Jill who's tour was leaving later than mine.
You see originally we were meant to dock in Ashdod which is the gateway to Jerusalem. But with the change in our Itinerary we were now arriving in Israel during Sukkot and so we had no choice but to dock further north at Haifa instead. This meant all but one excursion changed and of course this then caused a lot of issues on board. To begin with both Jill and I booked the Jerusalem and Bethlehem tour but Jill soon changed her mind as she now had the opportunity to do 'Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee'.
So at 5.30 am I was stood on the deck in the dark looking across the water at Haifa. Again this is a sight that has stayed with me. The whole of Haifa was beautifully lit up and I soon noticed an odd circling of lights going up the slope of Mount Carmel. It took me a few minutes but I eventually realized that these were part of the famous Bahái Gardens.
We had handed our passports in ahead of time as the Israeli Authorities board the ship to inspect them before we're allowed to disembark. Luckily it was easy enough to collect them before heading out via the additional security checkpoint- random searches and metal detectors manned by Israeli soldiers.
As it turned out- and I would guess why they didn't dare cancel the Jerusalem tour- around 650 people were going on this tour, roughly half the ships passengers! We had a long drive ahead but it was beginning to get light so I could admire the mountain ranges to the left and the blue, blue sea to the right. A little later on we saw the 'white city' of Tel Aviv from a distance and on the outskirts of Jerusalem we passed through a forest and a few small towns before seeing the desert stretching into the distance.
In Jerusalem, one of the oldest cities in the world, we made for the Mount of Olives where we had an amazing view of both the old and new parts of said city. We spent a few minutes soaking it in and then we headed to the Garden of Gethsemane where we entered the stunning Basilica where there was a service taking place. The Basilica itself had some amazing stained glass with purple being one of the main colors used. I admit I was surprised at this as I don't recall seeing such a bold color used in other Churches I've visited.
Next up was one of the most well known places in all of Israel....The Western Wall...aka The Wailing Wall. For the second time that day I was searched- yep, that's right, I got chosen for the random ones coming off the ship too-before being told we were not allowed to take any kind of pictures due to the holiday...Of course given that they carry automatic guns, I was so not going to argue.
Besides after making my way to the mens segregation and watching through the grates I was completely enthralled. Many of the women in our group went up to the wall on the womens side but I was much more interested in soaking it all in. There were many men praying while touching the wall with heads bowed while others read from scrolls a good 2ft long. Nearer to where I was peaking through, there were desks set up for young men to study and I could hear them reciting as they did so.
I clearly remember one man placing a hand of encouragement on the shoulder of a young lad who was at one of the desks... it was such a simple thing and yet it clearly meant a lot to the lad. Being at the Western Wall during Sukkot was a touching experience and one I'm not likely to forget.
Once having met back up with the group we exited the courtyard housing the Western Wall passing a father and two sons all of whom were carrying palms (there significant during Sukkot) on our way through the streets making up the 'Old City' of Jerusalem... A very crazy place in my opinion!
Its like a huge Bazaar down all these side streets packed with people. Locals hurry about weaving between the visitors and then you get cars passing through within an inch of you, crowding you all together. Not terribly nice when its so hot out and you end up pressed against sweaty strangers...
Luckily we escaped the crowds a little as we began following the stations of the holy cross; Eventually ending this part of the tour in The Church of the Holy Sepulcher where it is said that Jesus was buried.
After meeting back up with our coach we then began the short journey to Occupied Palestine. Before crossing the border we had to drop our guide off as shes not allowed to cross with us and after the security check point we picked up our new guide and headed for a buffet lunch where I got to know my travel companions a little better- including a young couple from Alberta who I soon hit up for information in the hope of a future visit to Canada
Our last stop of our day in Israel was in Bethlehem. Now as you probably know there's the whole story of Jesus being born in a stable but obviously this was not likely a stable as we know them today. Instead it would be the cave which in this case is commonly known as the Grotto and it sits under the Church of Nativity. Again there is some stunningly vibrant stained glass in the chamber where Jesus is said to have be born and in the Church itself there's still some mosaic flooring from the 4th century visible.
By the time we were on our way back to Haifa it was again getting dark. Our guide told us a lot about Israel and the many different people who call it home. She explained that westerners come to Israel expecting extremists everywhere but overall the majority of Israelis don't look at religion as something to question or to get obsessed over. If you accept God then you accept everything else along with it and you just get on with living your life.
Back on Celebration I met up with Jill in our cabin and found that she had enjoyed her time in Israel just as much as me. And having now visited Israel- something I've wanted to do since studying Judaism in school- I have to say not only did I love the history filling this place but also the country itself....So until next time Israel!
The next day we would be arriving in Port Said, Egypt and despite all the warnings we had, it was an experience like no other. In the 8 months before our holiday, Egypt had been gripped in a revolution making it extremely unstable and causing the loss of hundreds of lives during clashes..... just days before we had left home there was a clash between the military and protesters in Cairo resulting in 25 deaths.
The situation being what it was meant that the center of Cairo was off limits and we were to travel in convoy wherever we went. Each coach would have an armed security guard and the convoy itself would have groups of armed guards patrolling the length of it whilst on route to our destinations. On the way to Cairo we passed many checkpoints with tanks ready and waiting...and they were manned too, pointing directly at the oncoming traffic. It was an unsettling experience to say the least and you couldn't help but feel the turmoil the country was experiencing.
Our first stop on reaching Cairo was the Mosque of Muhammad Ali Pasha which just amazed Jill and I. Its situated above the city with good views across Cairo and despite the haze while we were there we could still make out the pyramids in the distance. Upon entering the Mosque we were in awe of the decoration adorning the interior and the architecture is astounding.
We moved on to a lunch cruise on the Nile next. Unfortunately on the way we got cut up in the traffic and had to stop to get the first aid kit from under the coach as a gentlemen cut himself badly during the emergency stop. This of course meant a bit of a problem for the convoy as we got separated and it worried the guards some... but Cairo is notorious for its traffic so it wasn't totally unexpected!
During our lunch on the Nile Jill and I enjoyed the shows put on by belly dancers and a twirling dervish. In fact we were so caught up in it that we had to rush to get something to eat so we would have time to step out on the deck to enjoy some of the scenery before we re docked.
Next we stopped in Giza and visited a Papyrus shop where we learned how to make papyrus sheets from the plant and how to spot fake ones and then we hopped back on the coach to make our way to the Pyramids Egypt is so famous for. In the few minutes it took to reach the Giza Pyramids we drove alongside the riverbank which was filled with rubbish. While in Egypt we had expected to see poverty as well as animal neglect but seeing it so distinctly was mind boggling in this day and age.
At the Pyramids we had to get off the coach while it was searched and pass through another security check. There were plenty of people around and many arguments going on. They all seemed to be about nothing much but would soon escalate which isn't great when there's so many armed people about.
Luckily we soon got back on the coach and headed up to the Pyramids. Here we had some time wandering around before I ventured inside the Menkaure Pyramid. Our guide had arranged for those of us that wanted to, to go inside on arrival. She had explained that if you had any big mobility problems then you were best off skipping it....an understatement to say the least!
We had to climb down a steep tunnel about 5ft wide and less than 5ft high with rickety handrails and very little in the way of light. Many people we're trying to use their phones to see where they were going and then dropping them as they lost their balance and one gent a little ahead of me lost his footing and fell a ways down too.
Maybe its because of this or perhaps it was because we didn't have a guide inside but I wasn't overly impressed once inside the chambers but nevertheless I'm glad I did it so now I know.
Back outside I enjoyed the fresh air as I looked around for Jill. She was in amongst the rocks a little ways away as she had gotten fed up with the peddlers pestering her. She was not alone lol as another women had retreated here while her husband made the same trip I had.
On meeting back up we took some pictures and when a police office came across Jill managed to get his picture while repeatedly refusing to let him take ours- all around Egypt people will offer to take your picture and then refuse to give your camera back unless you pay them. We even had 11yr olds wandering around swearing at us when we refused to allow them to take our picture...yep, their great hopes for the future!
...You also have to watch out for the camel rides in Egypt....they'll take you off to a quiet place and then refuse to allow you down until you give them whatever money they demand....their nothing if not enterprising!
Our last stop of the day was at the Sphinx where we had some time to wander around and marvel at the engineering of such a statue. It was a great sight to end the day on as the sun had began its descent across the desert....
Before long it was time for the long drive back to Port Said and as we moved through the streets by the port there were some extra road blocks up and men patrolling as though they were expecting trouble. We were told there was a local wedding taking place and with tensions running high everywhere I guess they were wary of trouble at the port.
Our coach was one of the first in the convoy to make it back to Celebration and given our long day we had a nice surprise in having a welcoming party with music, drinks and even cold towels waiting for us.
We quickly made for our cabin but I only stayed a moment before I went up on deck to watch the other coaches arrive. I spent some time talking to a group who had stayed on the ship most of the day and told them about the situation in Cairo while they told me of their brief jaunt into Port Said.
Not long after this I went back to the cabin and cleaned up and then Jill and I headed to the midnight Buffet which we thoroughly enjoyed. It was Jill's first time experiencing this and we stuck around to sample some of the cakes. Though I soon headed back to the cabin as I was knackered and didn't feel up to taking part in the conversation at the table we were sharing.
The next day we arrived at our last stop of the trip, Alexandria. I had decided to do a trip to El Almein which was a little over an hour and a half away, to visit the war museum. Here we learned about the decisive battles that had taken place here during world war 2. Winston Churchill once said "Before Alamein we never had a victory. After Alamein, we never had a defeat."
We also visited the commonwealth cemetery in El Alamein and I will always remember it. The cemetery itself was so peaceful and quiet it was hard to imagine what had taken place so many years before and so in the middle of the hot desert I wandered the well kept cemetery, reading the names, ranks and ages of the men who died so far from home and all far too young.
What struck me most though was the amount of inscriptions on the graves that only had the message of 'known unto god' in place of a name. So many families are still without the exact resting place of there loved ones and I can only imagine the devastation that must cause.
We arrived back in Alexandria in the afternoon an hour or so before we were to leave so I wandered the market stalls set up within the port. I got lots of goodies for both Jill and I as we didn't have time to get any souvenirs the day before and Jill didn't venture off the ship in Alexandria. My bartering skills held up very well if I do say so myself! A couple of times I probably didn't do as well as Jill could have but at others I impressed even myself I chatted away with the vendors and in getting distracted I was one of the last passengers back on board before we began sailing away.
I spent some time wandering the top deck listening to music and enjoying the hot sun before finding Jill and enjoying our last night on board together.
This trip was an amazing experience unlike any other I've ever done. From learning to barter, to visiting an iconic city like Jerusalem. Exploring Egypt during its revolution and talking to those who live there and meeting so many great people along the way it's something I'll never forget.
"Once you have traveled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey."
― Pat Conroy
- comments