Today was one of our shortest driving days - just 55 miles from Santa Fe to Albuquerque - so in true style we decided to add on an extra 100 mile round trip. We drove to Albuquerque then headed west to Acoma reservation and Sky City.
New Mexico is the only American state that still recognises the indigenous Native American pueblos and there are 19 reservations in the state. Sky City in the Acoma reservation is the oldest continuously occupied place in the whole of America - it has been inhabited since the 13th century.
Sky City is found at the top of a mountain, 15 miles into the reservation. We parked up at the visitor centre and booked on the 1.30 tour. We piled onto a bus which took us to the top of the mountain and into Sky City. The tribal elders still live in the city itself - which has no water or electricity - but most of the tribe live in towns elsewhere on the reservation. We drove through the main town 9 miles away where there is a school, hospital, community centre and tribal court. The tribe still govern the reservation and are free to set their own laws.
Up in Sky City, some buildings are still made out of the traditional clay and straw but others are now made out of concrete or brick, with glass windows and painted doors. Each clan has their own house and the whole tribe return on feast days even if they live elsewhere. The tribes are matriarchal and the women own the homes and head up the family whilst the men govern the tribe.
Our tour guide was Geri, a very knowledgeable lady and also very amusing. She took us on 90 minute walking tour of the town. It is an honour to be invited into the reservation and there are strict rules - visitors are only allowed to enter with a guide and cannot wander off. There are also strict rules about photography - you need a permit to take any photos at all and once you have one, there are still restrictions, for example you cannot take photos of the church and cemetery, of any people or any artwork. Having said that, the people could not have been more welcoming. The locals all come out of their houses to welcome the tour. There are also art stalls dotted around the village where locals sell their crafts as well as fresh bread and stew, and native Indian cookies, which were delicious. We were so glad we had waited to buy crafts here rather than in the expensive shops in Santa Fe.
Geri told us about the history on the city, and it was similar to the Pecos Pueblo ruins we visited yesterday. The Spanish invaded, brought the missions and forced the locals to convert to Catholicism. Eventually the locals rebelled and overthrew the Spanish but not for long. In Sky City the locals rebuilt the city after the revolt and kept the Spanish at bay. Their influence remains and 70% of the tribe are still practising Catholics. She also talked about the clans - there are 12 in Acoma currently. Each person has a big clan, from their mother, and a little clan, from the father, and these are passed on from generation to generation so the people understand their heritage. The people always marry outside of their clan. Geri's clan was sun and her daughter married into the corn clan. Her grandson is therefore Big Sun Little Corn (or popcorn as Geri referred to him).
The tour was great and more than worth the 2 hour drive. To make things even better the view from the top of the city was breathtaking. Set on a mountain top in the middle of a huge, entirely unoccupied valley, surrounded by mountains, the location was unmatched.
As we left, we saw the local cowboys head out of their horses to round up the cattle. It was really special to see. All in all it was a great trip and one of the highlights of our trip so far.
Day: 9
Total miles driven: 1806
States crossed: 5.5
Licence plates checked: 39 (Wisconsin, Pennsylvania and Maine)
Road kill: 1 + a bug