I spent two days in the Colca Valley, a very picturesque region of Peru. Our local guide for those couple of days, Luis Angel, was a total legend. I don't think he stopped talking for the entire time that we were on the bus, telling us things about the area, about Peru generally and random stories about his life as well as asking us questions about why we were there and what we liked most about his country - he was amazing and very comical! He had taught himself English using a book and a tape - showed me the book, it was so impressive.

On the road from Arequipa into the Colca Valley we saw lots of vicuñas - very cute, fluffy, creatures, in the same family as llamas and alpacas. Luis pointed out ancient graves high up in the side of the mountains (God knows how they got the bodies up there!). We visited some market stalls that sold all the usual touristy woollen ponchos, hats and souvenirs. I tried coca tea for the first time - made with coca leaves, it is supposed to relieve the symptoms of altitude sickness and reputedly has many other medicinal benefits. I think it's an acquired taste!

Along the road there is a particular stop at almost 5,000 metres above sea level where we could appreciate the views of the snow-capped Andes. Hundreds of 'ritual rock piles' had been formed there by previous visitors. Here I had my first sighting of a viscacha - a funny little creature, similar to a rabbit or a chinchilla, with a long fluffy tail.

We stayed overnight in the village of Chivay. As we drove into Chivay, I was a bit sad to see children standing by the roadside, holding lambs or llamas to attract attention and hoping that tourists would give them some money or sweets - it a shame to think that's what they do all day. In town there were older ladies doing it as well, leading llamas around and encouraging tourists to have a photo taken with them in exchange for money.

When we arrived in Chivay Luis took us for a walk around town, pointing out some sights and explaining the history of the nearby ruins.

We went for dinner at a place that put on a music and dance show. I ate some of the local delicacies - alpaca steak and quinoa (it's not common at home - a type of grain, a bit like barley - in Peru it's often served as an accompaniment or in a soup). The dance show was crazy, they were telling stories through the performance and had lots of costumes - some traditional clothes of the region and some just bizarre! The dancers roped in volunteers from our group to don the costumes and join in the dances, it was hilarious!

Afterwards we checked out McElroy's Irish pub (yep, even in deepest, darkest Peru!). It claims to be the highest Irish pub in the world. There we played pool and added to the messages scrawled on the walls by previous patrons.

The next morning we had to be up very early (3-4am) in order to travel to the condor look-out point in time for sunrise. Condors are huge birds - there is some dispute over whether condors or albatrosses are the largest species in the world. They were considered sacred by the Incas and they are a very powerful symbol in traditional Peruvian beliefs and mythologies. Although many people think they are birds of prey, they are actually scavengers, eating already-dead animals rather than killing their prey.

After watching the condors, we went for a long walk along the top of the canyon as a bit of preparation for the upcoming Inca Trail. The landscape of the Colca Valley is spectacular!