The second part of our stay in Argentina was at an estancia or ranch in the country. After our last night in Buenos Aires where Beth had the misfortune of ordering yet more steak (!) the next morning we took a bus to Lujan. The woman at the agency who we bought the tickets from was completely useless and the result was an hour sitting in the bus station as the pickup that shed organised failed to find us. Her aside, the place was fantastic. About an hour and a half from Buenos Aires the place was called Granja al Lar. We had two hosts a lady called Adrianna and a girl called Luciana - two of the sweetest, kindest people you could ever hope to meet. They didnt know any English really so my pocket dictionary proved invaluable. As soon as we arrived they bustled us inside and served up a five course lunch. Except we didnt know it was going to be five courses. They laid out cheese and delicious serrano ham and then... tongue. Beth was still feeling the effects of the steak from the previous night so we made a deal - if she ate my bit of tongue Id eat everything else. I did try a bit of tongue but when it touches your own tongue and then youre chewing it.. nah I couldnt do it. So Ive eaten A LOT of break ham and cheese. And then course two arrives. Chicken strogaoff or therabouts. So we eat that and then its a full plate of pasta with big chunks of beef, and then theres dessert. This would have been ok if dinner 3 hours later had not also been 5 courses. We had been deluding ourselves that it would just be a snack. Nope. Rump steak. More chicken. Two pork chops each and mash. Sout Americans do not seem to eat vegetables. So not to go into fine detail on it Beths digestion system packed in entirely meaning not only could she not eat anything for the rest of the time we were there but had agonising stomach cramps all day and night. Had to say to these lovely ladies, thank you but we dont need that much food!!! Second mishap was with the horseriding which we had been so looking forward to. There were lots of horses at the place but we have concluded that they havnt been broken in and were essentially wild. They saddled one up with a blanket on its back and wooden stirrups. And it did not like having Beth on board. After a lot of prancing the people put a bridle with a bit on it so that when it was my turn, they lead the horse. Once round the field being lead was enough, not terribly exciting and the horse was making it pretty clear that it wasnt having a good time either. Lots of plus points tho - the place had a lovely pool and I managed to get the first semblance of a tan. Not like normal people as im still essentially white but its a good effort by my standards. Because Beth wasnt eating I had my dinner with the hosts in the kitchen most nights and it was lovely, I really enjoyed practicing my Spanish. The girl who is 18 has subsequently decided to go and study English in Buenos Aires and I learned a bit later that we were the first English speaking guests theyd ever had!! The skies were the best thing about being in the country. Youve never seen clouds like it - absolutely beautiful. I had a go at walking through the fields but the herd of cows and horses that zone in on you and the neighbouring dogs soon put paid to that. I thought Id had it at one point!
The way back from the estancia was an adventure of sorts too. The owners insisted on driving us to the bus station rather than us incurring the expense of a taxi. Which was lovely except the jeep broke down on the motorway, black smoke everywhere. At this point Beths stomach ache reached fever pitch and by the time we returned from the service station toilet the family had called a roadside ambulance. Beth got an injection in the ass and told to eat nothing and drink only gatorade. We then rode the tow truck to another petrol station then got a taxi to the airport. Got on an earlier flight to Chile and I shall continue my story from there..
xx