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After the early start we sat on the Tur bus for a cheeky 14 hours on our way to San Pedro De Atacama. It was an absolute monster and being again unable to sort out a prior hostel we pulled into the desert in the dark with not to much of an idea where to stay. San Pedro only has one street at night lit, so it was off in the dark with nothing but dirt roads to walk on to find something! As San Pedro is really small in 10 minutes we were at Hostel Florida and checking in. The room was steady if not a massive come down from the Penthouse. At five pounds a night it was a bargain however although there book keeping was the most questionable we had ever seen. The desert toilets / showers were also going to be a little different from what we were used to, but we had heard this was the place to be! After we got ourselves sorted we headed out for a bite to eat with an array of restaurants to choose from. The best we had seen in Chile! After that it was off to bed. It's weird how sitting on a bus can take it out of you!
Saturday we were up early to get ourselves sorted out. Had breakfast at a place that was surely packing the cutest puppy ever know to man. It could barely climb the dirt roads curb. Got ourselves into Cactus tours and sorted ourselves out some trips. We had a couple of action days ahead of us. Not wanting to risk sand-boarding so close to the Inca Trail we opted for a general day of shopping around the traditional stores (that all pretty much packed the same stuff) and catching up with the folks at home! Skype is catching on. After a pretty chilled day we headed out to find a little restaurant. There was a French chef so we thought it would be good and the place was full. Indeed the food was good but the waiter was a c**k piece so we ended up in there for a good three hours. The lads also had to be T total as our next two days were to be altitude filled. No Veno allowed. Got ourselves down for an early night.
Sunday and it was up at 05:30 for our day trip. Now the desert temp is a little tricky. By night it can get down to minus 15 and in the day it's generally well over 30 degrees. This left the boys a little confused at what to wear. Being British and planning ahead we went for a couple layers up top (including our fleeces), trainers and the big shorts. Picked up at 6 and we were off. At this point we were a little nippy to put it mildly but we were sure the shorts would pay dividends in th end. After an hours drive to a stunning national park where the lakes mirrored the mountains and the flamingos that were on them as well as the epic sunrise. Jumped out the van and it was still more than chilly. After a quick guage of the other people who were all wearing trousers, fleeces, coats, walking boots, hats, gloves etc we realised we may have under dressed slightly. Typically we put on our brave faces and thought we'd be the only ones laughing when the sun roasted everyone. A alk around the park and to the lake we got some amazing snaps. Afterwards it was time for breakfast. Some sort of cake / sandwhich combo and we got to watch a Spanish based Flamingo documentary whilst we confirmed to each other that we could not feel our feet for love nor money. All looking like Rudolph the red nose reindeer we quickly hopped back in the van to check for frost bite. Luckily we were good and a bit of rubbing later our feet were back. Pressed onwards to a village before we stopped at a canyon for a 40 minute walk that was also along by a stream. The shorts wre yet to pay off. Again very picturesque. Jumped back in the van and it was off to some more park based banter. After a rocky off road ride we pulled in and didn't know what to expect. There we were greeted by the most stunning view we had ever laid our eyes on. We were in the desert with the blueset sky we'd ever seen, peering out over a perfect blue lagoon at the snow capped volcanos in the background. Unbelievable. After some serious photography we headed off to another lagoon for some more stunning views and we were also treated to a sighting of the desert fox which is apparently rare! After that we cruised back to a local village for a very nice lunch. Afterwards we headed off to be shown an Inca Trail and also hit another village for a look around. Returned to San Padro at about 5 after what had been a quality trip. Only once we got back to sea level did we feel truely warm again. Shorts had been a bad choice and no wonder they raised some smiles. We'd show them tomorrow. That night we were pretty tired so after showers etc we went out for a massive meal and went to bed. An even earlier start tomorrow!
Sunday we woke up at half 3. Not wanting to make the same mistake the lads layerd up the cloths until they looked like Michelin Men. No messing. Got ourselves outside for 04:00 am pick up and was greeted by quite a lot of people waiting for the bus. However not all of them were on our tour company and come half four we were still standing in the freezing cold on our own. Swearing our heads off at Pedro we were going to give it till five. However other people started exiting hotels and we soon realised pick up wasn't at 4 but after half 4. Another b****** dropped! Telling ourselves that we were just aclimatising the bus soon showed up. After a quip about no shorts where we nearly put Carlos through the window - temps were a little frayed - we sat at the back and tried to get our heads down. However the next 2 and half hour drive was all off road on some of the bumpiest stuff we had seen. Different. Winding off road through the desert in the dark was new. Just as sun was about to pull up we arrived at the Geysers. Yet again another stunning first. Jumped out the van into the freezing cold (minus 14) and no matter how many layers we had on the toes and the hands could feel it! Should have got some gloves. Walked around the Geysers which were just awesome and came up to a hot sping. Chris went for a paddle which soon warmed up the feet - if not cooked them. Had a steady bit of breakfast before moving onto another site. Another 40 minute tour of some Geysers and the sun was well and truely up. Can never get bored looking at them! Back in the bus and it was off to a village in the desert - the most remote we had seen! Stopped there and spotted another contender for worlds cutist dog. Check out the flickr photos of him. Had a steady bit of llama keebab and treated the dog to some. Honestly that dog looked at you with the eyes from Puss in Boots from Shrek. You couldn't say no. After that it was on to Cactus Canyon. (Does what it says on the tin). Here we chilled and got some more good snaps. Back to the mini bus and worse case scenario happened. The bus wouldn't start. Yikes. Never good in a desert. After some pushing and no sign of life - let alone phone signal, our guide had to hitch a lift back to town to get another bus. After about half hour however someone managed to get the bad boy started and we shot back to San Pedro. No worries! After an early start we got in an afternoon nap as we had star gazing in the evening. Went out for an early meal and treated ourselves to some gloves. Star gazing is also apparently freezing. Got ourselves kitted out in even more layers than the morning and headed off (2 pairs of walking socks on!). Rocked into the pick up place sweating only to find out it was too cloudy for gazing. We were gutted. Apparently one of the best places on Earth to do it and it was a no go! They are even building the worlds biggest telescope here it's that good. However with how lucky we've been so far on this in doing everyting we wanted we guess sometimes you just can't do everything! Totally deflated the boys went back and packed and were soon asleep. It'd been a long day.
The Tuesday was to be a day of travel. Had half a day to kill in San Pedro so chilled with some coffees and I-net action. San Pedro had been quality. Real nice little place with loads to do! 2 great trips and nearly a third! Hopefully a sign of things to come!
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Nathan Strange how you stumble upon tnhigs.I signed up for an account at Wordie just yesterday and came across your entry for 'kenspeckle'. Further investigation led me here to the post wherein you expounded upon the discovery that KenSpeckleLetterPress has a blog. Which mention astounded me since I've been 'virtual' friends with those two good people for a year and more, separated as we are by the 49th parallel and a good 2,000 plus miles.One might say this introduction is very kenspeckle in the degree of serendipity that must have conspired to make it happen! That, and our shared knowledge of such a quaint, rare word.So, good afternoon, Lauren; it's a pleasure to meet you.