Ninh Binh - we made our own way there on the train for 70000d (about £3) on a train with hard seats - literally - a wooden bench seat. But for only 2 hours or so it was fine. Fortunately we didn't order anything from the on train buffet as even the local people next to us had trouble biting through the meat & slop.

Strangely there were no hawkers when we arrived and the streets were quiet. We walked along the street and came across the Queen mini hotel with the very nice Mr Luong - it was recommended in the book and even though the beds were on the small side decided to go for it. Same old food in the restaurant - but quite palatable so after some noodles, rice and chicken (and some big fat pancakes) we set off on some motorbikes (aka heaps of junk) for Hua Lu - a site of an ancient city. The roads were v busy and it took 20 minutes to cross over the road once we had missed a turning. Quite hairy.

We arrived at the place having driven through some villages and paddy fields to find that parking restrictions were in force for foreigners - 10000 dong to park our bikes near the ticket office! The guy looked very official in a green uniform and hat and he even told CT that he was the police. Yeah right - we're getting wise to these cons - and refused to pay! It was only a quick look round the temple as it was getting dark.

The vietnamese are getting ready for Tet - lunar new year - with decorating orange or trees about to come into bloom, presents, lucky money etc. So the roads are extremely busy - but all getting ready for complete shut down on 25/26/27 Jan.

Next day - decided to go to Tom Coc (Halong bay on paddy fields) and to Cuc Phuong - the national park. Unfortunately only the same heap of junk was available as transport - so we took those to Tom Coc - where again parking restrictions were in force - and ignored. We were sold tickets to go on a boat tour round the grottos and limestone peaks, no more than 2 tourists in each boat so 2 boats only to walk 20m across to the boats to be offered one boat for all of us. Oh No - we pay 2 boats - we get 2 boats! So off we went at great speed the boats being rowed with feet!

The grottos were very interesting as was the surroundings - but a bit warmer and some sun would have made it fantastic. 'We weren't to be done by the "I'm very thirsty - you buy me drink" from the rower - apparetnly they sell the drink back to the seller for half the price so get the money instead of the drink!

The next adventure was getting to Cuc Phuoung. We had vague confirmation from the national park about accommodation (although some other hotel had said it was full), and decided to take the local bus from the corner next to our hotel in Ninh Binh. Bargain price of 39000 dong and an hour later we were dropped off the bus - but not really sure where - no sign of a national park - just lots of touts asking if we want taxi. Not really sure what to do and definitely not paying 400000d (£12) we start to walk off.

Things got a bit tricky over the next 30 minutes as the price started to come down for motorbike taxi - but we had to threaten to get the bus back to NB before we got it down to 210000. It was getting late and the kids were tired and we still didn't know what to expect when we got there.