Having chosen to board an AC bus from Vigan, after our experience on the way up, Chris and I were not entirely sure if we would make it all the way to Sagada in one afternoon. The bus driver told us to disembark at Tagudin, a small village in the middle of nowhere, along side the main road. From here we decided it was best to cross the road, down a street with a few shops, and search for some form of transport. Luckily we did come across a minivan, heading inland, to the mountains. Minivans go when they are full, which was annoying for us, as we ended up waiting around for an hour or so before we left. Full in the Philippines, and similarly to most SEA countries, means every last gap inside the bus, and even the roof, is filled. Bags, a fridge freezer, and around three men were riding on the roof. We had four of us, two Filipino men, Chris, and myself, wedged along the back seat, which comfortably fits three small adults. We had to take it in turns leaning forward in the seat, to make the journey slightly more bearable. To add to the equation, the roads were extremely windy, as we slowly climbed up and around the mountains. Some of the views were amazing, and we definitely noticed a change in temperature as we got higher up. We began to catch a glimpse of what we had come all this way for...the rice terraces. Some were beautifully landscaped with stones, pathways, and flowers. Making them look more like gardens than rice terraces.
After an awful, slow, long, windy journey for over two hours, we arrived in a town called Cervantes. We asked the driver if there was a way for us to get further inland, but nope, this was as far as it would get for us today. Having no idea where we really were, we asked a tricycle driver if he knew of anywhere to stay. He took us around the corner to a homestay, 'Marlin Sam's'. The owner, a middle aged Filipino family man, showed us to a clean, simple room, with a shared toilet and shower room. The rooms were all off of a living and kitchen area, and he said he would cook us a local dinner for just 70 pesos each (just over £1). His friendly mother, Dik, also came to meet us, and seated us down with a cup of locally brewed coffee, which was really good. He then returned with San Miguel sugar cane alcohol, which he sipped down with water. We went hardcore with no water! He joined us whilst we ate a popular dinner of chicken pinikpikan soup, with rice, green beans, and pork bbq (all areas of the pig on various skewers!). Pinikpikan is a delicacy in the highlands, and is prepared by beating a live chicken with a stick prior to cooking. The beating bruises the chicken's flesh, bringing blood to its surface, which is said to improve the flavour after cooking. We sat eating, drinking, and discussing his life, and unusual take on religion for a few hours, before a quick cold water bucket shower and bed.

We awoke to a feast for breakfast; a huge plate of rice, a small river fish, aubergine, sweet potato, egg and potato fritter, and fried bananas. All to be washed down with local coffee. We were stuffed! Dik asked if we would help support some children they sponsor through college, by purchasing their homemade Banana Polvoron. Not knowing what it was, she gave us one to try, which was easier said than done. Polvoron is a type of heavy, soft and very crumbly Spanish shortbread, made of flour, sugar, milk, and nuts. The polvoron is packaged to look like a soft biscuit, but as soon as you try to pick it up to eat, it crumbles and collapses into dust! But it actually tasted quite nice, although it is very dry, and definitely needs eating with some sort of fluid.
We said our thanks and goodbyes, walked down the road to the minivan stop, and boarded a van heading for Bontoc.
With just three of us on the back seat this time, it was a much more pleasant journey. Still extremely windy, and another two hours or so. From Bontoc, we then had to get a Jeepney to take us to Sagada. We found the stop, but the Jeepney was full to the brim. There was no chance we would both fit, as well as our backpacks. But of course, this is the Philippines, so there is always space!.....Up to the roof we went!
Just under an hours journey, around the mountains, with the best views of the rice terraces and mountainous landscapes. Although a tad risky, dangerous, (and illegal!), it was a lot of fun being on the roof, and the locals found it very funny seeing foreigners up there.
Sagada is a small town in the mountains, where tourists and many Filipinos visit to see the hanging coffins, Echo valley, and various caves.
After walking around for an hour or so, we found some accommodation at 'Indigenous hotel', that were happy for us to stay one night, with the potential of staying for two. We had a huge room, two double beds, own bathroom, and three large windows letting in the glorious sunshine, with views over the valley. The weather was perfect in Sagada. Similar to a British summers day; cool air, a slight breeze, clear blue skies, and the sun beating down.
We had to register with the tourism office and pay a small fee. We found out about the various treks and tours we could do, and went for some food to decide how to make the most out of our time.
Working out there were some caves a short walk from where we were, around 2km, we headed that way, stopping off for some recommended lemon pie, with local tea and coffee. Before we found the cave, we spotted some hanging coffins on the side of the hill. They were quite far away, but we could work them out. The Igorot tribe, the local tribe, follow an animism belief. The hanging coffins are a traditional way of burying people, that is still utilized. Not everyone is qualified to be buried this way; among other things, you had to have been married and had grandchildren.
A short walk further and we found the steps leading down to Lumiang Burial Cave. It was a long way down, but at the entrance to the cave was a spectacular, but eery site, of hundreds of wooden coffins, piled up on top of each other. It was even possible to see inside some of the coffins!
A sweaty climb back, and stroll back to the village, we decided to visit the towns museum. One small room, filled to the brim with antiques and heritage clothing, jewellery, cooking utensils, hunting equipment etc. A family run museum, reliant on donations, and understand how important and meaningful the items are to the town, show a real taste of how it used to be. We were walked around the room by one of the founder's sons, who explained each item to us. From the snake backbone to be worn on the head, to the woven baskets, turning black from soot from the fire they would cook on inside the house, to the different materials used for clothing depending on class. It was interesting to learn about, but a shame that time has moved on, and no one dresses this way anymore. Unlike in Sapa, Vietnam, where the heritage still lies.
We ended up having a 'treat' dinner, as it was in a small cafe serving slightly more expensive food than we would usually go for. But it was packed full, and we had spied a huge chocolate lava cake we wanted to try for dessert! It was delicious, the perfect chocolate dessert; slightly crunchy sponge on the outside, but when you cut into the middle the chocolate poured out. Yum yum yum!

We met our guide, Marco, at 8am at the tourist office, to begin our three hour trek. We walked past the church, down into Echo valley, and stopped off at more hanging coffins. The latest one here was from 2011, surprisingly recent I thought. But apparently most of the elders in the village still believe in this practice. They were fascinating, like nothing else we had seen before. Varying in shapes, and sizes, depending on the person inside. They would build their own coffins, and once deceased, their family would morn for up to a few weeks, with the deceased body tied to a wooden chair, over a smoking fire. The body would then be carried by male family members to the cliff side, and passed up to be rested in the hanging coffin.
The trek then took us deeper into the valley, to find the entrance to the underground river. Chris was given a torch, and I just had to follow, as we slowly clambered our way along the underground river (only inches deep), through to the other side. We were a little disappointed, as the tourism office made it sound really awesome, but it was quite pathetic. Perhaps this was because of it being dry season.
The trek carried on along the river, outside, to reach some rice paddies, and the waterfall. Again, we were told it was a nice big waterfall, perfect for swimming and cooling off in. But it was pretty small, and a disappointment when we arrived. We had a paddle, then made our way back to the village, through the countryside.
Knowing the jeepneys run hourly, and the last one was at 1pm, we hurried to grab our bags and catch the 11am jeepney back to Bontoc.