'Bontoc' is normally just a transit point for most backpackers, but we'd done some research and found out about some hidden rice terraces, in nearby 'Maligcong'. Amelia and I arrived in Bontoc after taking another risky rooftop ride, on a Jeepney from Sagada.
I can understand why people don't want to hang around in Bontoc, it is a very ugly city. Most of the buildings around are just bare grey concrete, or breeze block structures. And most of the accommodation is very poor at best!
We stayed in the 'Bontoc Hotel', which we thought was the best of the bad bunch, and after bartering the cost of the room down a couple of hundred pesos, it was fairly cheap.
For lunch I had Hotsilog (hotdog with garlic rice and fried egg), which is more of a breakfast dish in the Philippines, but it's not much different to the lunch or dinner options. Amelia ordered a mixed pancit (mixed noodles, with veg and chicken or pork). Normally a mixed pancit also displays 'good for two' on the menu, but not seeing this, and taking into consideration the price, Amelia assumed it would be 'good for one'. This mixed pancit was good for at least three! With a 'little' help from moi, we polished the lot off.
To get to Malicong we had to take a jeepney. The journey took us through some small villages and up some extremely steep hills. I was surprised at the jeepney's capabilities, but then these things were used in the war.
From below and at a distance, we were a little underwhelmed. The rice terraces looked grey, but this was just because they were stonewalled. Some terraces (like Sapa, Vietnam) are just mudwalled so when in season, even the walls take on a green tinge from the grass and moss growing on them. However, once we were above, the terraces looked amazing, they kind've looked like a giant oddly shaped lime green staircase. It was a breathtaking site, and made more incredible knowing it was all made by hand.
The only way of getting around the terraces, is by walking along the very narrow section of mud and stones that line the terraces to keep the water in and rice saturated. We walked from one side of the valley to the other, and as we approached the village on the other side, not wanting to encroach on the locals, we decided it was best to turn around.
When we took the jeepney to Maligcong, we knew that there would be no return journey, as there were no more jeepneys running that day. But according to the receptionist at our hotel, it was possible to walk. We were hoping we might strike lucky though and catch a lift with a local.
Throughout the two hour steep downhill walk back, we saw just one or two mopeds with pillions, and one car - which was full to the brim and didn't look like they'd allow rooftop passengers.
The walk back definitely worked up an appetite! We ate at 'Cable Cafe'. Amelia had a delicious buttered chicken curry (coconut flavour). The rest of our evening was spent enjoying their great live music and drinking a few beers. Amelia tried out their San Miguel beer (also brewed in the Philippines) in lemon and apple flavour, the latter is her new favourite beer.

During breakfast (at yesterday's lunch spot) we started to hear some drumming. We took a look out on the balcony of the cafe and saw a big parade coming down the road. It was only 8am! I'm glad we weren't wanting a lay in that morning. We were led to believe that the parade was celebrating the beginnings of a festival, which is hardly surprising considering they celebrate over 100 across the archipelago each year! Most of which they get a day off for.
Before getting the minibus to our next destination, we paid a visit to the local museum. It was much like the one we saw in Sagada, except more extensive. They even had some drums used by the 'headhunters'. Headhunters fix the jawbone of their latest enemy onto the drum and use it as a handle!

Our next stop... Banaue