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Douglas Brown's Travels
Today there is no riding and we spend the day to examine the multicultural city of Sarajevo, the capital city of Bosnia. The first thing that strikes you about this city is that orthodox churches, Catholic Churches and mosques are every where. The mosques are in a wonderful state of repair apparently due to the money which is. Poring in from the middle east. At 9:30am we met our tour guide for the day Ilda. Ilda is a twenty nine years old Bosnian Muslim who lived through the 1992-95 Bosnian conflict. She was 7 years old at the time, her father fought as a Bosnian soldier and as the oldest child Ilda helped her mother provide for the family. We walked through the city centre experiencing the different quarters. The influence of the Ottoman Empire and Austrian Hungarian is obvious in different sectors of the city. Ilda took us to the major Orthodox Church, Catholic Church and original mosque. She also took us to the street corner were Grand Prince Frederick and his wife Sophie were assassinated. This event sparking World War I. We also saw the very old and dilapidated electric trams. They were the first electric trams in Europe. Apparently an electric tram service was planed for Viena and the designers wanted to try their design before installing it, so they chose Sarajevo as the test city. We then hopped on a bus and toured the outer parts of the city as Ilda described the sites we passed. She pointed out the cemeteries established on sports fields which held the 12000 Sarajevians killed in the 1992-95 conflict. Sarajevo is a city ringed by the Olympic Mountains and in the 1990's Bosnia had no army to speak of. This made it very easy for the Serbian forces to besiege the city by placing artillery and snipers on the high points surrounding Sarajevo. It was near impossible for the citizens of Sarajevo to move about their city because of fear of a sniper shot. During the 3 year war every building in Sarajevo was damaged or destroyed by the Serbian attack. The Serbian army had planned to take Sarajevo in seven days. However, the local inhabitants banded together in a makeshift arm to defend their city. All. Telephone , water and electricity supplies were cut to the city and all sources of external supply of food cut off. As a reminder of the war several bombed buildings have been left as they were at the end of the war. Sarajevo Stars can also be seen around the city. These are shell craters in buildings or pavement were a number of people were killed. The shell hole has been filled with red epoxy hence the name Sarejevo star. Ilda took us to the hand dug tunnel below the airport runway which was built to get supplies from the demilitarised sector of the city. This tunnel operated with in meters of the Serbian military presence around the airport. Ilda then took us for traditional Bosnian Coffee and baklava. The rest of the day was spent wandering the markets.
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