Day 7 - Glaciar Viedma

We again woke to strong winds and passing showers. We still had our fingers crossed that today was going to be the day that we went ice trekking on Argentina's largest glacier, Glaciar Viedma. Regardless of the conditions and the guides possibly being persuaded by today being the final day of the 2009/10 season, they confirmed that the ice was suitable to trek on.

So after what would normally be a lovely boat trip on the lake, we rounded the bend and before us in the distance was Glaciar Viedma. Even from this distance it was a sight to behold. The face was some 60 - 70 m high above the water and extended for another 120 -140 m below it. We exited from the boat onto the rocky outcrop adjacent to the glacier and begun the 20-30 minute trek to the glacier face. It was there that we laced on our crampons. In overcast conditions the glaciers are traditionally bluer than a sunny day which made it more spectacular. There is no way that the photos could do justice to the numerous shades of brilliant blue we encountered during our few hours on the ice.

The wind was strong, the rain wet, and waterproof jackets (regardless of price Mr Paddy Pallin) are only waterproof for so long. The time on the ice was brilliant and gave you a totally different perspective than if you were only viewing it from the water. We climbed some peaks, peered into some of the deep blue crevasses, and even went under an ice bridge ... Brendan didn't believe that you could call something a bridge unless it consisted of concrete, steel or late nights so he just called it 'pretty'.

Other than the trek itself, there were two other highlights for the day that are worth mentioning... firstly that at the completion of the regular trek, they allowed us to climb beneath the glacier to get into the "blue room". This is the area beneath the retracting / advancing glacier face which was made up of a large number of caverns connected by tiny ice tunnels which we were able to climb through. Hopefully the photos give some sort of picture as to just how beautiful theses room were.

Secondly, by this stage, our gloves were very wet and our pants soaked through yet upon exiting we were offered cups of glacial ice ... Brendan politely told them to keep their ice and Mia muttered under her breath 'that is the last bloody thing I want' as she struggled to keep her frozen hands alive. That was until we saw the cups being filled with Baileys ... Better make mine a bigger cup was the joint response when we were next asked. After downing a couple of warming glasses it was time to make the trek back to the boat ... to dry out.

Even though I, that's Mia, may have shed the first tear of the trip after not being able to feel my hands or get away from the cold after nearly 3 hours on the ice, we both had an AMAZING time. And my frozen hands were soon forgotten when on the warm boat again.

The day was a success, we conquered the glacier without catching so much as a sniffle and made it back safely to El Chalten to dry out our clothes and look at all the amazing photo's.

Day 8 - Mirado Pliegue Tumbado (Lookout above El Chalten)

Today was pretty cruisy compared to the last 2. After being told that this would be the worst day for weather with high winds and nonstop rain, we bunkered down in the morning with the rest of the other desperate in the hostel until it got to about mid morning, looked outside and realised the rain had eased, trees were still and the sky was cloudy yet clearing. Cabin fever was not going to get us, so we suited up and headed out.

We decided to just do a short 3hr walk to one of the view points of El Chalten and the surrounding mountains. The weather held strong and we ended up having a great afternoon. We walked alone along the trail, saw a few different mountains that had not appeared out from the cloud the previous day and got an amazing view of El Chalten.

Brendan spotted the infamous and possibly endangered Patagonian deer ... while the image is slightly fuzzy he was not expecting it to be wearing a blue waterproof jacket ... I mean it wasn't even raining. We will attach the image and let you decide whether it was the real deer.

Also on the way back down we came face to face with one of the local males out having an afternoon stroll. He was blocking the entire path and would not budge. We tried to exchange pleasantries however this Bull didn't speak English very well, and our Semester Spanish Course 2 years ago didn't extend to animal husbandry ... fortunately for us he understood "stay" and "good bull" as we created a path a safe distance away from him. Mia commented on the size of the beast and how strong and healthy he looked, Brendan just thought he would have been great medium rare, with crisp seasonal vegetables and a Mendoza Shiraz

The mood in the hostel was significantly different when we got back, the weather forecast for tomorrow was in and it was looking good ... an early night for an early start to hopefully get a sunrise for two.

Day 9 - Trek to Lago Torre

We rose early, before the sunrise but not the little rabbit that was outside our window. We checked the temperature gauge, 4 degrees, perfect. It was before sunrise but sunrise is at 8:30am and luckily the bakery opens at 7am. No hike is complete without the 'quisiera uno sandwich con jamon y queso por favour', yes a ham and cheese sandwich to go please, oh yeh and one alfajores to share for after.

We were walking in the dark, trying to make it to the first lookout for sunrise. The air was crisp on our face but the sky was clear and the wind was low. We made it up to the first 'Mirador' as the sun rose over the hills behind us, providing a great silhouette of the valley but more importantly, Cerro Torre and its surrounding peaks of Mt Fitzroy and El Grande Peako (last one may be made up), were standing in front of us, splashed with pink. What an amazing start to the day! We sat at the top trying to take a photo that captured the sunrise, but none did. So we took it all in our stride and continued on to the lake which was another 2 hrs away.

The scenery was unbelievable. We were alone in the Patagonian wilderness and loving it. We had no other human contact for over 6 hours until we were on our way down and by that stage we were telling everyone that they should have been here 5 hrs ago when the views to the mountains were clear.

The ground was frozen in many parts which made for a fun day of dodging ice sheets but also stepping through them just to see how deep the puddle was below. We reached the lake and saw Glacier Torre. Another beautiful blue glacier with the back drop of amazing mountains.

The day was just magical and Brendan was so excited that he got to wear his sunglasses for the first time. We saw the most wildlife so far, with birds and bunnies out to play in the sun, but no deer. Once the sun came over the valley and hit our faces the day was complete. We returned back to our hostel feeling that we had experienced the best of Patagonia, its ever changing weather, the amazing peaks and mountains, the great ham and cheese sandwiches and the beautiful changing colours of the glaciers, the autumn leaves and Mia's finger tips. It had all been spectacular.

After a well earned shower, we got on the bus to leave and as we drove out of town Brendan spotted some deer running in the hills. With a swift elbow in the side to get Mia's attention, a high five was given and the wilderness in El Chalten was complete. Back to El Calafate for some more Glacier action tomorrow.