Our journey from Aswan to Luxor was by road, after saying goodbye to our friend Ahmed. It's about a three hour drive, but with two temple visits on the way it took the whole morning. First stop was Kom Ombo, a split temple dedicated to two gods. It was fairly busy as a number of cruise boats were docked alongside, but as usual Magdi took us unerringly to the most important sites in the complex and brought it to life for us. We then continued to Edfu temple, which involved an interesting drive through the town itself - very busy as it appeared to be market day. This was a particularly impressive temple, very complete and with excellent decorations. We beat the cruise boats this time, which meant it was fairly peaceful too. The lines of carriages waiting to transport cruise passengers between temple and boat attested to the chaos that might ensue when they all docked. More reason to be glad we opted for the relaxation of a Lake Nasser cruise, rather than the Nile option. We were grateful to Magdi and the driver on the way back through town - despite finding little shops selling chilled chocolate everywhere we had been before, there didn't seem to be any in evidence in Edfu, but Magdi knew a place and the driver took us there, thus satisfying Sally-Jayne's mid-morning chocolate craving for another day. Between Edfu and Luxor, we passed some ruins that Magdi said were thought to have been the ancient Egyptian granaries, famous from the biblical story of Joseph, and tombs where generals killed fighting the Hyksos were buried. We may have passed other things, but I enjoyed a well-earned snooze. Soon, we were at our hotel, the Nile Palace. It is quite a big complex and seemed very busy, particularly with lots of tour groups, but we have another great room, with a fantastic view over the pool and the Nile, a balcony that is shaded for part of the afternoon, and plenty of space in the room itself. The hotel has several restaurants, cafes and bars so we won't go hungry even if we don't want to venture out. The afternoon is spent relaxing on the balcony and enjoying refreshments in one of the courtyard cafes, before we meet Magdi again for our evening tour of Luxor temple. It's the only temple that actually opens at night (other than those that have sound and light shows I mean) and that makes for a very special atmosphere as we look around, starting just as the sun is setting and then with the temple lit up as night falls. It's not just the atmosphere though, the complex itself is one of the best we've seen so far and we are constantly amazed by the sophistication and achievements of the ancient Egyptians as Magdi tells us about their lives as portrayed in the temple decorations. Dinner is at the Middle Eastern restaurant in our hotel, before turning in quite early after a tiring day.