I'm back!

Venice is just as beautiful and magical as I remember it, but a lot is different. Having visited Venice in August, and lived here in the winter, I thought Venice had two faces: hot and sweaty and full of obnoxious American tourists; or cold and clammy and silently serene. But this Good Friday I saw lots of Italian tourists here on a quick religious vacation.

Venice has also changed from when I lived here. There are some new shops, the scaffolding is in different spots, and San Giacomo di Rialto has become a real party spot at night, hopping with bars. Three and a half years ago students had two small bars down by Santa Margherita into which we had to cram. Now a whole new square is swarming with young people spilling out of an intense bar scene.

After visiting my friend, Vivian, at one of these bars, I found my way to my old apartment late at night. I was surprised at the sadness I found there. All day before, I had been so happy just to be here. As I walked out the train station, my heart leapt, remembing all the fun times and the serenity I found here. I guess I shouldn't be surprised that it might be melancholy to release that I will never live here again. From now on, every time I see Venice it will be as a tourist.

Our budget is still strained here in Venice. We don't have a kitchen here either, but Scott and have mastered the sandwich of provolone and fresh vegetables (mmmm, Italian cheese). And we donàt mind eating lentils out of a can for dinner every once in a while if it means getting to wander along one more of those enchanting canals. Our hotel (which we cannot afford) is incredible. We're sharing a tiny room with a view of the tower and dome which you see at the top of this page. Out our common room window we have a glimpse of the Grand Canal. With no curfew and a sink in our room, who could ask for more??