Since arriving here we've been awestruck by the peaceful calm that pervades. Our first day on the beach was chilled beyond expectation; we both read our novels and swam in the warm ocean.

Day two was an adventure. We hired a wooden perah with captain Joel to guide us. First stop Gili Trawangan for beginners snorkelling (for Penny the non-water sign). Flippers on. Masks in place. We took the plunge.

From here, Kate's take on the situation: I think one of the abiding memories of my life will be watching Penny cling to our little fish-man captain as he flipped Atlantis-like through the water with Penny's arse floundering alongside...

We saw paradise beneath the gentle waves: coral, exotic fish and clear waters. Next stop Gili Meno where on second time in we saw a turtle! Everyone was excited. At this point we needed repose under a raised beach day bed.

Onwards to Gili Air where we swam with bellies grazing the tops of the splendid coral. Suddenly our guide spotted another turtle and grabbed Penny, arse still floundering, to move forwards. I touched the turtle!!!

Such a divinely unspoilt and natural place. We are sun kissed and totally fulfilled.