Picturesque Ancud sits on a curving bay that can capture your heart as surely as the finest symphony. Getting here was interesting, though. We're up at 4 to catch a taxi to the Santiago airport for our flight to Puerto Montt, then being ever thrifty and still reeling a bit from our splurge in Merlo, we take a backpacker's bus into Puerto Montt to the bus terminal, then another bus that will take us all the way to Ancud, which actually isn't all that ...

If you could gather together all the people you've really enjoyed being with--ones that have made you smile or giggle out loud, or made you feel like a million bucks when all you had was $1.27, you might have a group like we fell into at 13 Lunas.Not really impressed at first 'cause we had a basement room with NO window, I resolved to just not spend much time there and mingle with the 20-somethings instead.How much fun was that? The first night they insis...