Last week Seville.....apologies in advance - this blog is a little longer than normal!

Our last week in Seville included a few “must see”tourist places and some that are not so popular. We revisited a couple of our favourite spots......and walked and walked.....lots of kilometres.........a very hot, but great week!
The week started out with a “biggie” - definitely our favourite tourist site in Seville - the Real Alcázar. One of the most visited locations in the world, this UNESCO Royal Palace is the worlds most beautiful example of Moorish architecture. Originally built in the 10th century as a fortress, the name Alcázar actually comes from the Arabic word for castle, “al-qasr” .....and it is indeed a fairy-tale castle - with a mix of Islamic, Renaissance, Baroque and Gothic architecture there’s no wonder that it’s been used by the film industry for various locations - the latest being one of the gardens in an episode of Game of Thrones.
A quick tourist tip.....this oldest Royal Palace in Europe is still used by the Spanish royals .....so always check when visiting Seville if they’re in residence - it’s closed to the public when they are. If you are fortunate enough to enter this “dream location” allow lots of time - 2 or maybe 3 hours, especially if you like gardens. Attempting to describe The Alcázar it difficult - taking a stroll through it is like walking through a work of art that combines intricate architecture, centuries of culture and extraordinary craftsmanship......so here are a few of highlights of our visit:-
We entered through the 18th century Puerta de Léon (Lion’s Gate) which leads into the main courtyard, the Patio de las Doncellas which was the centre of public life - especially for the ladies for whom it’s named. Several halls lead off this courtyard - the most important one - the Salón de Embajadores (Hall of the Ambassadors) was used for special ceremonies. Originally the King’s throne room, it was built in the Moorish style in the late 14th century. Intricately decorated archways lead into the hall, where the ceiling is covered in a gilded dome covered with star patterns symbolizing the universe....and it’s stunning!
Many other halls and rooms took us away and around this seeming labyrinth as we became enthralled in the beauty of this Royal Palace - one small hall which is enclosed by a gallery is named for the four small doll-heads that decorate one of the arches.....and they proved difficult to find in this Patio de las Muñecas (Patio of the Dolls).....but we did find them! The oldest parts of the Alcázar are found in the Hall of Justice, which blends Muslim tradition and Castilian emblems into its plaster work.....in the centre of this hall is a fountain that connects to a calming pool.
The Admiral’s Hall is where Magellan and Vespucci met to plan their first travels around the world.....and so the history and the art continues......but here I stop....and say to anyone who travels to Seville - go and see this lovely Palace......oh.....and don’t forget the gardens!
Entry into the gardens is included with admission to Real Alcázar and is an integral part of the Palace - with many rooms and halls leading out to peaceful patios with fountains and ponds. The largest area of water is the Pond of Mercury (Jardin del Estanque), and it’s stunning, even on a hot, crowded day! Surrounded by arches it has a statue of Mercury at its centre and is best seen from the Galeria de Grutesco (The Grotto Gallery), which was built from old Muslim walls in the 16th century. Smaller terraced and walled gardens are laid out close by - all connected to each other via gates and small staircases. There’s a sense of calm and tranquility as you wander through these diverse gardens - French, Italian and Arabic - they have romantic and fanciful names - Garden of the Dance, Garden of the Ladies and Garden of the Prince.....and there is, of course, a maze.....we made it through and out the other side!
For anyone needing refreshment - or just a shady seat - there’s a small, unobtrusive café tucked away under some small arches along a back wall......we didn’t linger there - we’d spotted a couple of peacocks (pea-hens) which we followed - quietly - until we found their point of interest - a male peacock, strutting his stuff, with his feathers fully displayed. Making strange sounds, he turned around in slow circles giving us, and the pea-hens, quite the show.....it was obviously mating season!
As we walked back past the Pond of Mercury we re-entered the Palace from a different hallway of arches and found our last “treasure” of the day - the rainwater baths of Lady Maria de Padilla. Built underneath the palace and located just off the gardens, they are the size of a swimming pool. With vaulted ceilings they must have been the perfect retreat from the blazing Seville sun.
We visited a couple of less popular tourist sites this week - they were interesting to us - and as they’re “overlooked” by many, we enjoyed some quieter spaces! Both sites are over the river, in Triana - one of which is in the San Jorge Castle, which shares a couple of walls with the food market. Entrance is free to this surprisingly modern museum, that in addition to displaying some of the old foundations and walls, is a forum for tolerance - a nice idea, given that in the past it was the headquarters and prison of The Spanish Inquisition.
Demolished in the 19th century and turned into the market, the underground ruins in the museum focus on the history of the castle and the religious repression of the Inquisition. A dark and gloomy place, the jail was hot, unhealthy and wet - being right next to the Guadalquivir river. The infamous Spanish Inquisition was created, in Seville in 1481, by Catholic Monarchs and the Christian Church, to prosecute heretics and false Christians. Many of the accused were held for years - only a few were ever released, but many who confessed (after being tortured) were sentenced to death by burning....a public penance that came to be known by the dreaded name of “auto-da-fé.”
The atmosphere in this museum, that although modern, is creepy and not for the squeamish - we heard a dramatized version of a man lamenting the imprisonment of his lover who sank into madness after years in the cells - she eventually confessed and was burned for her crimes of poetry and the mixing of herbs......she was beautiful and he was a jealous lover- and he was the one who reported her to The Inquisition. The museum does however, through its telling of the past, support tolerance of religion, gender and supports diversity of any kind......something to think about!
The other museum in Triana - the Pottery and Ceramic Centre - is also modern, and much more cheerful! Located in the old factory of Santa Ana, it’s one of many that used to occupy this area.....it’s a bright and happy place that takes great pride in presenting the history and tradition of pottery and ceramics. The ground floor has the remains of kilns and follows the history of the industry, while the upper floor has a gallery of ceramic tiles and pottery through the ages. Playing on a TV In a small room, there are some interviews of artists and craftspeople who worked at the various factories. These interviews are priceless recollections of an era, now gone, but thoughtfully preserved through the memories of the workers - many of whom spent a lifetime doing what they loved......their work is beautiful and this small museum is certainly worth a visit - an hour is probably the most time that would be spent here.
One final highlight of our time in the Triana area was a treat from a pastry shop that is always listed as one of the best in the Seville - and there are many of them!
Situated on Calle Pureza, just across the bridge in Triana, is the “Manu Jara” bakery - in their window they feature small, but delicious displays of their high quality pastries. After studying the offerings and helped by a vivacious lady behind the counter, we shared a creamy, flaky, raspberry concoction that was rich and delicious!
The other “must see” place in Seville is the cathedral, which along with its Giralda Bell Tower occupies a huge space - both on the ground and across the city’s skyline......it covers over 11,000 square metres of land! Completed in the 12th century, the original building was the main mosque of Seville, but was transformed into a church approximately 50 years later. After being damaged by an earthquake in the mid-14th century it was decided that a new cathedral would be built.....it was completed during the early part of the 1500s. Two parts of the original mosque still remain - the Moorish entrance and the Giralda Tower - the bells were added to the tower after its Christian conversion. The size of the cathedral is staggering, and before entering it’s a good idea to walk around the outside to admire its architecture - it’s the world’s largest Gothic cathedral - and it’s beautiful!
After our entrance fees were paid we made our way through an area highlighting some of the art treasures from the cathedral’s collection.....they’re mostly from the 17th century - the golden age of Seville. We then entered the cathedral itself and realized just how big it is......one note here - for good or bad, we opted not to take the audio tour - our aim was to just look....but for anyone who wants more depth of information, it’s probably a good idea. Pamphlets in many different languages are also available.
We found the size and contents of the cathedral to be somewhat overwhelming - there’s just so much of it - and everything is oversized! This is not meant to be critical, but a caution if you visit - be prepared - this place is, as expected, filled with priceless works of art....so a few highlights:-
One of the dominant pieces in the main part of the cathedral (and a popular one) is the tomb of Christopher Columbus. A large and beautiful piece of work, his tomb is carried by four figures representing the kings of the four regions of Spain - Castilla, Leon, Navarra and Aragon - their coats of arms are prominently displayed. Although it has been disputed that Columbus is not buried here, but in the Dominican Republic, DNA research has suggested that these bones in Seville are his.
The gilded high alter is magnificent, the world’s largest at 65 ft high, it took 44 years to carve. Like most of the 80 chapels it’s covered with a high grille for protection - this does restrict vision, but is understandable - for us, it was our only disappointment.
The Seville Cathedral is the holder of many world records, so not surprisingly, its choir-stall section is also huge......to stand underneath the carved pipe organs made us feel very small - it’s difficult to even see the top of them.
With numerous rooms running off the main church, that contain even more treasures, here are just two more highlights:-
We found a particular favourite in one of these ante-rooms - a painting by Goya that, for us, stood out “from the crowd” - The Santas Justa and Rufina - painted in 1817 - is mesmerizing.
Our other favourite is the Chapter House, built between 1558-1592 - elliptical in shape, it’s mainly used only on Holy Week. With a stunning carved dome the high vault features a magnificent series of works by Murillo - his masterpiece, La inmaculada sits high above the bishop’s throne. The flooring in this room was directly inspired from a design that Michelangelo did in Rome.
We planned to go directly into and up the Giralda Bell Tower, but with a very long line-up it was closing it down for a while.......so we took much needed break, finding that after just over 2 hours we were mentally tired!
A couple of hours later we returned, by pre-arrangement - this time we were able to walk straight into and up the tower. Built between 1184 and 1198, with a delicate brick pattern that changes colour with the light, it’s classed as Spain’s most perfect Islamic building. Reaching 104 metres in height, there are no steps, except a few at the top - but there are 35 steep ramps that have to be climbed to reach the top.....the reward is not only the views of the city, but close-ups of parts of the cathedral’s exterior than can be seen either on the way up or down. Be warned - if you decide to do the climb, sensible footwear is a good idea. Exiting down and using the same ramps is relatively easy, but it can be busy - it’s not a very wide passageway and it can be busy on both sides!
Our exit from the cathedral took us through the Patio de los Naranjos (orange trees).
With a centre fountain, benches tucked away in alcoves and 66 orange trees that fill what was once the Mosque’s main courtyard, it’s a lovely and calming end to time spent in the Cathedral and the Bell Tower. One unusual piece of whimsy to look for when leaving is a stuffed crocodile that hangs in the doorway to the courtyard - it’s a replica of a gift that the Sultan of Egypt gave to King Alfonso X around 1260.
As our time in Seville ends, we’ll miss the history, the beautiful buildings, the charming and endless winding streets plus our favourite cafés and bars.
We’ll miss chance meetings and the funny little events that make travelling so much fun.....for example.....On the last Saturday morning before leaving, we had breakfast at the market in Marcarena, and while I went to place our order at the market counter, Trevor took a seat at a table under an umbrella (in a city that reaches over 40C, even the morning sun is hot).
While he cheerfully struck up a conversation with a guy (and his dog) at the next table, I used a little of my halting Spanish to order 2 lattés and 2 toasted buns - 1 plain and 1 with ham. When the order arrived the 2 coffees were there and 1 plain toasted bun, but the 2nd bun had sliced tomatoes on top - although it was toasted! When I looked puzzled, the server cheerfully offered me a large tub of margarine and a knife to spread it, which I declined (her English was on par with my Spanish). At that point, I paid, delivered the breakfast to our table where Trevor was, by now, deep in conversation with guy at the next table - who was Welsh and had lived in Seville for the past 9 years. Using my initiative, I left them to it, and visited another market stall that sold olives, oils and cheese......so.....using sign language, I successfully purchased 2 thick slabs of a local cheese and, voila, our breakfast was complete.....with no complaints from Trevor about the missing ham!
We’ll also miss observing “regular, every day life” from our apartment balcony, situated in a local suburb. Our highest praise in this city, however, goes to the garbage-men who from Sunday to Friday nights, miraculously clear out all the large bins that are colour-coded for glass, plastics, etc......and kudos to the general population who are also vigilant in bringing out and depositing their own sorted trash.....one man came to “do his bit” every night and used a large stick to press down the garbage - or at least we think that’s what he’s doing! Oh...and we’ll mis the gelato shop across the street too.....the “dulce de leche” (my favourite flavour) was out of this world....I hope that Jerez can match it!