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We're stood watching torrential rain fall on the beach in front of us. It seems on the Gili Isles we can't predict what time the rain will come. Yesterday it was 5pm as we lounged by our stunning pool, today it started at 11.45am so we are caught out as we circumnavigate the island on foot. We're still full from breakfast so we don't even fancy taking refuge in one of the many beach bars to have some lunch. It's been pouring for forty minutes now and is showing no signs of abating. The puddles on the sand/cobbled roads are getting deeper and deeper.
There are no roads as such on the Gili's. They are three traffic free islands. The only modes of transport are by foot, on bike or by horse and cart. We're staying on the largest of the three islands; Gili Trawagan. It's periphery is pepper potted with trendy beach bars. With that comes lots of twenty something year old Aussies and European backpackers swigging beer and walking bare chested (men) and in bikinis (girls), through the streets on this Muslim island. Not very respectful.
Bars proudly display signs advertising they have mushrooms for sale and some of the tee-shirts we've spotted for sale say 'bang em, 69 em' and 'virginity is curable'. It's all very up-scale.
The beaches are ok. Whitish sand but rubbish strewn in parts and lots of broken coral everywhere making it difficult to get out into the sea without hurting your feet. The water though is crystalline and turquoise.
Thankfully we are staying in the north, slightly inland at a stunning 10 bungalow place. It's much quieter up here and there are lots of nice beachside restaurants/lounge bars. The pool is almost Olympic size in length, although it is like swimming in the bath, the water is that warm. We have a beautiful room and a semi outdoor bathroom.
The rain thankfully stopped and we've almost completed the full circuit of the island. We've stopped to have a cold Bintang in a little hut over the water, listening to the waves crash on the shore. Tony has spotted turtles swimmimg.
Those puddles really did get deep. I had to take my trainers off and walk barefoot, hoping to God I didn't stand in horse poo.
27th Feb
Ah, this is the life. Today's entry is written whilst sat on a sun lounger at the edge of the sea as the incoming tide pounds the shore, drinking another Bintang. Bit of a theme occurring here....
We've just had lunch at a lovely beach side restaurant; tapas of chicken satay with the best satay sauce yet, baba ganoush and toasted bread and lightly seared tuna on a bed of spinach, rocket, pumpkin seeds, bean sprouts and edamame beans. Gorgeous salad and one which will be replicated when home. The morning has been spent reading by the beautiful pool. Thankfully up until now it has been overcast so not excruciatingly hot.
Later we'll head out to brave 'the strip' and indulge in a cocktail or two at happy hour, before finding somewhere for dinner and then heading the fifteen minutes or so back to our bungalow, possibly to watch a movie. Last night it was The Amazing Spiderman 2. The first Amazing Spiderman was watched somewhere in Myanmar.
29th Feb
Today's lunch is taken at 'Pearl', a beautiful rattan structure that resembles a Frank Ghery building, overlooking the beach. Mango smoothie and pumpkin gnocchi with butter and parmesan for me and berry smoothie and a lamb pitta for Tony, followed by salted caramel and a snickers flavour ice cream. No beer today until sunset.
All around the north of the island there are great looking beach bars which, other than sunset, don't really attract young backpackers so have a nice ambience. After another afternoon of doing not much by the pool (me) and watching movies in an air conditioned room (Tony), we headed out for sunset and dinner.
Other than bars and hotels around the edge of the island, the interior still resembles a tropical hideaway. Coconut groves, cows and goats and a few shacks hidden amongst the trees which house the local people. The roads are nothing more than dirt tracks. Despite the tiny size, there are still two mosques on the island. It's a shame that most tourists don't respect the local Muslim community and cover up when away from the beach.
1st March
We're leaving the Gili's today. It's 8.30am and I'm looking at the lovely pool. Already it's very humid and hot. I feel a little sad, not necessarily because we are leaving here but because the adventure really is almost over.
Yesterday we did quite a bit of walking. We went almost half way around the island for a whole roast chicken for lunch. It wasn't very good. Then last night we headed to Pearl again which is the nicest restaurant on the island. Unfortunately it is at the furthest point from the hotel that you could go. I say unfortunately because the mother of all storms commenced not long after we'd set off for dinner.... With no umbrella and no rain jacket.
We turned up at the restaurant slightly damp and as it still hadn't stopped raining when we'd finished eating, Tony ordered a beer giving it more time to stop, bearing in mind that up until now in Indonesia, it pours for an hour and then stops. The weather however, repaid us with an even heavier deluge. We took shelter not long after leaving dinner but after we'd been there twenty minutes we realised it really wasn't going to stop.
The roads had all flooded and so we schlepped through them with water up to our ankles. An hour after leaving the restaurant we arrived back at the villa. Mascara everywhere so I resembled a panda, hair hanging down my back dripping, and all our clothes soaked and covered in sand and mud from splashing through puddles.
Thunder and lightening had started which illuminated the coconut groves as we walked back. It seemed however that the loudest and longest thunder was reserved for when we returned, and as we showered in our semi open air bathroom, the room almost felt like it was shaking from the noise. I'm so glad we weren't out in that!
I've no idea what time it stopped but today the sky is blue. At least we won't get wet walking to the harbour to catch the ferry back to the mainland.
3rd March
Singapore bound. This is it. The travels are over. Stay at Dave & Alé's apartment for two nights and then homeward bound and back to reality. And very cold weather from what Dad has text me!
There was a 7.8 earthquake in Sumatra yesterday. We felt no impact and knew nothing of it until I read the what's app messages asking if we were ok.
We've spent the last two nights in Seminyak, Bali. It was ok. We watched sunset at the beach on the first night listening to the cool tunes being played from Ku De Ta beach club. We visited the club and decided we wouldn't pay the extortionate drinks prices so bought Bintang from a beach vendor- still way overpriced but far cheaper than the club, and sat on the sand. The beach was full of dogs whose owners let them poo and then simply covered the deposit with sand rather than remove it. Beautiful!
Seminyak is full of nice restaurants so lots of lunch and dinner choices. One night we had great pizza and as we ate I heard the dulcet tones of an accent very recognisable from the table next to us. The people lived in Perth but hailed from Manchester. We've not heard many northern accents on this trip!
We had eggs benedict & florentine for breakfast and steak and spinach for dinner on the second evening. We spent the day reading as it wasn't pool weather and we can't afford to shop in all the trendy boutiques! We did however buy two wooden letters to spell 'us'. A little keepsake from our megamoon, as Dad keeps calling it.
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