On arrival we centered ourselves around the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, the major railway depot but also one of Mumbai's most exuberant buildings. Its beauty is lost as it is almost impossible to draw yourself away from the chaos surrounding you at eye level. Simply walking along the street is an exhausting but strangely rewarding task; dodging human and vehicle traffic , negotiating beggars and leering men (Victoria's chest is hugely popular) all set in a conf...