Sunday 8th October - day 19.

Yosemite to Monterey.

Today’s plan was to beat the crowds in Yosemite by arriving there very early. We were up at 6.15 and driving back down Evergreen Road by 6.30.
Even though the sun was barely up there were still quite a few cars on the road and when we arrived at the Trailhead parking for Vernal Falls it was already two thirds full. The weather was perfect - bright sunshine but still crisp and cold.
We cooked breakfast, prepared our picnic wraps and then set off.
Today’s hike was to follow the Mist Trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls (10.8km / 743m). We started off walking through pine woods over soft ground, over a bridge and followed the steep tarmac path along the well marked trail up along the course of the river. Despite being still early, there were quite a few other hikers about, but no crowds. The trail was quite steep, but after two nights sleeping at altitude, we flew up it and soon had the other hikers behind us. The Vernal Falls were visible above us for most of the way - a wide curtain of water teeming over a platform of rock way above us and crashing vertically down in free fall to land on the rocks 200 feet below. The thunderous noise masked all other sounds.
We climbed on, up to the top and looked over the edge, where an innocent looking shallow paddle-worthy river dropped away into oblivion.
This was where the majority of hikers turned and went back to the car park. Our path continued on amidst signs warning us about steep slippery steps and caution. Luckily, the day remained dry and hot and we climbed without misadventure up past the Nevada fall as it, too cascaded out over the curved rock face in thundering and spectacular fashion. We stopped for a break sitting on rocks at the edge of the river, watching fat and healthy looking little ground squirrels busy scurrying about looking for titbit.
At the top of the Nevada fall we were able to walk out over the rocky plateau on either side of the river as it disappeared in a plume if spray over the edge, giving vertiginous views down to the valley. The terrain was unusual - bare smooth rocks, baked in the sun with small bonsai spruce trees growing out from small crevices in the barren surfaces.
After taking full advantage of the photo opportunities available, we went our separate ways - Chris to run on towards the Half Dome Trail for 10km and is to continue up along the trail before descend gradually following the John Muir Trail, back down to the valley floor. As planned, we arrived back at the car park at lunchtime, finished our picnics with a cup of tea and started our onward journey west to Monterey to recommence our coastal road trip. We expected the journey to take about four hours but the traffic in the park was really quite something - nose to tail queues most of the way through the one way system. We felt so sorry for the poor Park Ranger in traffic duty in the middle of it all.
After a frustrating half an hour or so we escaped the traffic jam and drove on through the park - jaw dropping views of the rock faces of the Half Dome and El Capitan to either side.
The drive west was long winded, through flat, full countryside, the highlight of the afternoon being a small roadside fruit and vegetable market, where we bought supplies.
We drove on into the afternoon sun, chatting, planning the next few days and finding out more about Monterey, our destination this evening.
We watched the sky change colour as the sun set into a distant bank of sea fog. We phoned the Monterey Fish House - fully booked tonight, but they invited us to turn up and wait. We parked, I popped in at 7.45, they took our name and advised us to come back at about 9pm.
This seemed ideal. There was time to return to the van to shower and change, and explore the town a little bit.
We drove down to the marina and Old Fisherman’s Wharf. This was a bustling area of town - full of lights, boats and restaurants. Beyond it all, we could hear a barking sound and followed the noise to find a handful of sea lions, swimming about and playing in the harbour. After strolling along the wharf we drove back, parked in the restaurant car park and went insdide to wait for our table. The restaurant was still packed with people waiting for a table. We sat at the bar and chatted to the bar man, who turned out to be the owner of the restaurant. We ordered beers, chowder, swordfish, tuna, scallops and pasta, and during conversation managed to negotiate overnight parking for our RV. An all round excellent outcome, and we have a great meal with great company and atmosphere.
Afterwards, it was a treat to just walk across the car park, and settle down for the night.