Nigel: Guilin is famous for its stunning karst topography but most people have come to hear about the place as a result of the HSBC advert which shows fishermen using cormorant birds to catch fish. Though the famous Li River does run through the centre of Guilin, the fishing doesn't actually occur here. Instead it happens in Yangshou which will be our next entry. Guilin is surrounded by very tall, lush mountains which are curved at the tops. Many historical figures and world leaders, including Bill Clinton, have been quoted as saying how beautiful the place is and luckily we weren't dissapointed either. The city has both a picturesque feel but also a modern one as well. There are an abundance of shops within the centre, however, a 5 minute walk and you can be next to one of the many beauty spots or by the riverside. Our hostel was right next to the river and from the lobby you could watch people wading across a shallow section where there was a cobbled area. Many people waded across. Some very slowly and some practically ran across. We were apprehensive about doing it ourselves but our night crossing of the stepping stones in Fenghuang had given us some confidence and we decided we couldn't go without attempting it. I'll let Alison finish the story becomes it still gives me nightmares....  

Alison: Guilin wasn't the small quaint place that I thought it would be but still some beautiful scenery can be seen if you look beyond the busy town center. Just outside the main shopping area are a few large lakes which were very attractive, especially as the sun was going down when we were there. The usual 'celebrity westerner' status continued here and we had some photos taken but this time we turned the camera on them as well. They were very bemused to have their picture taken too! About a 10 minute walk from town brings you to a very large park called the Seven Star Park and it is well worth a visit. There are lots of walking routes in the park with monkeys and peacocks running around freely. There are also several caves to explore. The biggest cave was good when we first went in because different coloured lights were used to make the caves look spectacular and to highlight various natural rocks that were supposed to look like various things e.g. 'beautiful lady washing her hair'?! We went in to the cave just behind a large Chinese tourist group and after a while the tour guide talking loudly down her microphone in Chinese and the slow pace of the crowd, began to annoy us a bit so we decided to overtake. It was only then that we realised that they were only turning the spectacular lighting on for the Chinese tourist group. We walked through the rest of the cave in darkness and a bit miffed that the lights never came on for us. At the end of the cave we noticed a deep cavern which looked as though it would have water at the bottom. Nigel decided to put an end to the wondering and without really thinking it through, lobbed a stone down it. Instead of clunk, clunk, clunk, splash, we heard clunk, clunk, clunk, smash! Guess that section of caves spectacular lighting, won't be as impressive as the others :-/ And now to the river crossing.....we didn't get very far. In fact, I never even left the bank. To get on to the under water cobbled bit, you have to walk down a few steps. Bearing in mind the heat that day, I recommended that we take our flip flops off when we were at the bottom of the steps so we could dip straight in to the cool water without burning our feet on the steps. However, in typical Nigel style, before I had even finished my sentence, flip flops were off and he was running down the steps with the smell of burning flesh in the air. Though I had seen people practically running across, I had never seen anyone run straight on to the slimy cobbles. I think you probably know what's coming......only one step on to the cobbles and he dramatically falls flat on his back fully clothed!! Luckily no serious injury was sustained and my first aid kit had it's debut to patch up his wounded finger :-)