We came to Indonesia to escape the wet season. We heard this is the place to visit while other South East Asian countries suffer the effects of monsoon. From the forests to the volcanos to the idyllic islands and beaches, it sounded like the perfect escape.

Jakarta, Indonesia's capital, is a large sprawling city. With a strong mix of traditional and religious beliefs, Jakarta is a booming cultural and industrial hub. The skyline is filled with businesses, from high rises to small shacks lined on the side of the road.

Traffic is chaos and crossing the road, even at lights, was a gamble. After several blocks we reached Freedom Square. It is a massive square with many locals and tourists wondering around enjoying the open spaces. Some lazed on the grass or sat by the road drinking iced tea.

We walked around until we reached the National Monument, Monas. Standing at 132 metres, it's hard to miss this iconic monument. Constructed with gold and bronze, the goblet shaped peak gives you a bird's eye view of Jakarta.

Once we reached the top on Level 3, we walked around the viewing area taking in the skyline of Jakarta. Unfortunately, it was a grey hazy day so the city further afield was just a blur. But the greenery of the square was quite prominent.

We made our way back downstairs and stopped at Level 2 of the monument. It was an open area with the ground covered in rubble. With an orange tinge beneath the grey clouds, we noticed the storm coming in. By the time we exited the monument, it started to rain. We took shelter in the tunnel area with other locals and hawkers selling sunglasses. Don't think you will get much business today.

The rain continued so we donned our ponchos and made our way towards the largest mosque in South East Asia, Mesjid Istqlal. We were nodded in through the main gate and followed the echoes of prayer. We were guided around the mosque and made our way out just as prayers finished.

We caught a train to Jakarta Kota the next day. Kota is the former Dutch capital of Batavia. Outside the station we were greeted with a bustling main road, bumper to bumper traffic with hawkers selling aromatic hot food and cheap movies. We went to Taman Fatahillah, the town square.

With balls of concrete at the town square entrances, only bicycles could roam this area leaving pedestrians to wander around easily. We admired the crumbling colonial buildings as well as the street entertainment. A group of children playing statues were being filmed, puppets were singing and dancing and a dolled up lady was miming Indonesian music.

One café caught our eye, Café Batavia. Built in the 1800s, this building has housed many businesses but after renovations in the 1990's, this café takes you back in time to the 1930s. While listening to the big band music play in the background, we sat in lavish chairs while admiring the old style photographs hanging on the walls. With the price of a Coke costing $5, we could only afford one drink in order to enjoy the atmosphere of this bygone era.

Heading further north, we reached the fishing village. The scent of fish and sewerage filled the air. We went into the Maritime Museum to get a glimpse into this former historical port. It was the Jewel of Asia in the 16th Century being the centre of trade for Asia.

We then visited Taman Impian Jaya Ancol. It's a massive waterfront amusement complex with an Indonesian version of Disneyland (Dunia Fantasi). We spent the afternoon recapturing our youth on all the whizz-bang rides.

The following day we went to Taman Mini Indonesia Indah. The park is a 5km cultural and entertainment complex. We took a gondola ride and were impressed not only by the size but with the attractions on offer; Snowbay Waterpark, 2 Bird Parks, Reptile Park, Fresh Water and Insect World, IMAX, a 4D theatre, an array of pavilions, museums and children's playgrounds.

In the centre of the park is a stunning lake with manicured gardens. On each side of the lake are traditional houses and temples from each Indonesian region. Each house has been transformed into a museum of furniture, photographs and tools.

We entered the Aceh traditional house. While admiring the furnishings, we spent time looking at old photographs of Governors and Officers. Outside the house was an old Indonesian Airways plane.

Heading back on the road, we went into one of the Bird Parks. The garden was like a rainforest surrounded by large cages. In the centre was a dome you could walk through housing many different species of birds.

We came to Reptile Park known for its Komodo dragon. We had a look at the crocodiles, turtles and snakes before coming across the Komodo dragon enclosure. The Komodo was big and looked fairly sedate. Then the door opened and the keeper waved us in. We had a photo taken of us patting the reptile's head. Despite being tame, we knew at any moment he could bite our hand off. It was the highlight of our day.

Yogyakarta is located in the heart of Java. Although the city is headed by its sultan, it thrives on a mix of traditional customs and modernisation.

Malioboro Road is the main tourist road with home stays, restaurants and internet cafes dotted along the labyrinth of alleyways off the main road. Nearby is the busy market road full of fresh faces, market stalls and shopping centres. Travelling further from the tourist area is like taking a step back in time with traditional homes, outdoor cooking and toothless locals squatting on the pavement.

At sunrise, we visited the world's largest Buddhist temple, Borobudur. Although perched on a hill, the surrounding overgrown trees conceal this hidden gem. Built in the 9th Century, it laid underneath a blanket of volcanic ash when Mt Merapi erupted in 1006. It was only rediscovered in 1814.

The temple consists of 6 square bases with each base containing numerous stupas. The largest stupa in the centre of the temple stands proudly overlooking the surrounding valley. We circumnavigated the temple on each base taking in the beauty around us. As the morning mist slowly lifted from the valley, the sun was ascending quietly in the distance casting colours over the landscape. We could see the peaks of Mt Merapi and Mt Lawu further afield edging their way into the panoramic views.

We explored the Kraton (Royal Palace). Kraton is a walled royal community with 25,000 people living within the labyrinth of the compound. Although it's the Sultan's home, it's also the political heart of the city. We grabbed a rickshaw to take us there. Thinking he had a long way to cycle, we suddenly felt a buzzing sensation - he had a 2-stroke motor attached the rickshaw - brilliant!

Meandering through the alleyways of the Kraton, we passed many batik stores and local cafes. Rickshaw drivers called out to us if we wanted a lift. But we wanted to explore on foot. We came to the entrance gate to the Water Castle. Since the building became unstable during the 2006 earthquake, we were only able to walk through the ground floor of the crumbling entrance.

Further on, we followed some locals through a tunnel which took us to the Water Castle, where the Sultan entertained guests among the watery features. Walking around the castle grounds we found many doorways, alleys and deserted rooms. Following what we thought was a path, we found ourselves among the small alleyways where the locals live.

Passing hundreds of school children, we entered the Palace grounds and explored the Sultan's home. Rooms displayed crockery, kitchenware, statues, photographs, outfits and batik patterns. Guards around the palace were dressed in Sultan's uniform complete with ceremonial daggers tucked into their pants.

We then visited the Bird Market. We had read that this place was interesting to watch the locals inspect and purchase an assortment of birds. Looking more like a bird park than a market, we strolled through the cages of chickens, parrots, owls, finches and other exotic looking birds. Near the car park was a different kind of food stall; crickets, maggots, leeches and ants were for sale to feed your feathered friends. After seeing this, we suddenly felt hungry.

We had hoped to visit Mt Merapi but since it was currently showing activity no one was allowed to go there. Being the most active volcano in Indonesia, we wondered whether any time was a good time to visit.

After an 11 hour white knuckle mini-bus journey, we arrived in Malang. Drivers in Indonesia tend to drive like they are competing in a race. Many weave in and out of traffic and overtake on blind corners. At one point we almost hit a bus head on when the bus was blindly overtaking vehicles from the other side of the road. And we lost count the number of times he almost took out motorbike riders and this is when we had our eyes open.

Malang is the second largest town in East Java, second to Surabaya. With a steady economic and population growth, it is known as the Paris of East Java. But it's not a particularly booming tourist town. With only a few monuments worth noting, one of the biggest attractions is the Toko OEN, a café well known for their sweet pastries among 1930's décor.

We celebrated Shiraz's birthday with a Batu Kampoeng Tour. But with our non-English speaking driver, we were unable to determine exactly where we were headed.

We drove through the town of Batu, passing by many stores and market centres before venturing up towards the mountain villages. We started to descend into one of the valleys where we stopped at the natural hot springs on the slope of Mt Arjuna.

Driving further through the mountainous landscape, the mist started rolling in. The blue sky turned grey, rain was soon to fall. We reached the vegetable farming area and amongst the growing fields, we stopped at the Tofu factory to see how tofu was made. In one store, we watched chain smoking men straining the water out of the tofu mix before compacting it into cubes. The store next door is where the women would cook the tofu into the edible tofu we all know. One lady poured salt over a cube and handed it to me to try. It was crispy on the outside and doughy in the inside. It made for a perfect pre-lunch treat.

Our next stop was to the flower fields. Acres and acres of land were converted into a nursery where plants and trees of all varieties were nurtured and prepared for sale. We watched workers doting bamboo hats tend to the soil and plants. Further down the road was an elderly local man creating plants into living sculptures that resembled animals.

It was then time to move on. Thinking we were going to stop for lunch, we drove along a windy road passing apple plantations and panoramic landscapes to visit the Coban Rondo Waterfall. Located 1135 metres from sea level, the waterfall is 84 metres high making a spectacular splash into the pool below. A spray of watery mist filled the air as we got closer to the falls.

That evening I managed to find a nice restaurant to celebrate Shiraz's birthday. The place had a lovely ambience, live music in the background and a large selection of western food. It was difficult to just choose one dish. We were impressed with the meal and the service. When dessert was served, the band played happy birthday.

As part of his birthday, we organised to watch sunrise over Mt Bromo. We were picked up at 1.30am and thinking we might catch some sleep, the bumpy road and flashing oncoming headlights made it impossible.

2 hours later we found ourselves among a sea of jeeps and locals. Stalls were selling coffee and noodles, hawkers tried to sell warm jackets and beanies and jeep drivers tried to fill their vehicles for the long haul up the mountain.

Our guide ushered us to our jeep and we squeezed in the back for the ascent to Mt Penanjakan. At 2770 metres, this mountain was the prime viewpoint for sunrise over Mt Bromo, Mt Semeru and the Tengger crater.

It was cold, dark and noisy. The sound of revving motorbikes and tooting horns filled the night. We were faced with the challenge of finding a space in the ever increasing crowd. After much pushing and shoving, we found a space 2 person deep and waited. Every time someone moved, we moved closer to the railing.

By 5am the first light appeared. Cameras were clicking and locals were chanting making this sunrise experience more of a party. When the pink and blue colours started to appear over the mountains, it was a picturesque scene. Mist hovered at the base of the mountains while Mt Bromo smoked its sulphur creating a dramatic effect.

When the crowds began to disperse, we made our way to Mt Bromo. On route we visited Love Hill and we fell in love with the view. With a clear blue sky, the sun was now casting shadows on the creases of the mountains.

Continuing down the mountain, we reached the base of Mt Bromo. Amongst the misty base, the place was packed with jeeps, motorbikes, horses and people. We were out of breath when we reached the crater lip. Looking back down at the desert of ash below, the wind patterns in the dunes resembled the Sahara minus the camels.

Rather than returning back to Malang, we thought we would make better progress going to Pasuruan. We were wrong. Pasuruan is a non-tourist town with no attractions whatsoever. As soon as we arrived, we wanted to leave. Hardly anyone spoke English but locals still attempted to make conversation. While they spoke in Indonesian, we spoke in English. We even tried playing charades by miming a train or bus but it didn't get us anywhere.

We walked on looking for the bus station to get information. We couldn't find it but we found the train station. We finally found someone that spoke English. He told us he couldn't help us, the train to Bali tomorrow was empty. We assumed he meant full.

For the first time on our adventure, we haven't booked ongoing transport. We were ready to leave Java and head to the islands, starting in Bali. Knowing it would take a considerable amount of time to get there, we got up early and left in search of a bus.

We found a local bus to Banyuwangi, near the ferry port to Bali. It was packed. Locals had to climb over our backpacks to get through. Then a wave of hawkers and buskers came on board. If someone wasn't trying to sell you food and drinks, someone was trying to get money from you.

Half way through the journey, we were told to get off. We had to transfer to another bus to complete the journey to Banyuwangi. But luck was on our side, we noticed there was a bus to Denpasar in Bali. So rather than having to change buses to Banyuwangi, we got on the Denpasar bus.

The bus soon became packed. With narrow seats, we were all squeezed in like sardines. Over the next 3 hours, we endured more hawkers, buskers and a cloud of smoke. Smoking was allowed on the bus so there was always someone smoking at any given time. Some locals were good enough to smoke out the windows, but most of the time they blew smoke into people's faces, including babies and children. Breathing in smoke became second nature, but no one bat an eyelid.

We finally reached the ferry port. While waiting in line to board the ferry, hawkers were making their money selling instant noodles. Every second person was sucking them down. We were tempted to join them but if the bus decided to get moving, we didn't want hot noodle soup on our laps.

Once on the ferry, most locals stayed in their sweltering vehicles while others went upstairs to enjoy the breeze and stock up on instant noodles. It was still going to take hours to get to Denpasar so we enjoyed some noodles for dinner. They made it so spicy, we worked up a sweat.

After an hour, we were relieved to reach Bali. Our adventure was about to become a holiday with beaches, massages, western food and English speaking locals who understand what we needed.

We didn't expect it to take long; the bus floored it down the road where possible. There were plenty of trucks and buses on the road but here in Indonesia, you overtake where possible. But when the locals gasped, we knew the overtaking manoeuvre was cut a bit fine.

Eventually we reached a bus terminal but it wasn't in Denpasar. Then a guard told us to get off, this is the last stop. Apparently they moved the bus terminal 15km out from Denpasar.

We had to catch a taxi to Legian. But with the recent increase of fuel prices, taxis became expensive overnight. This travel day ended up being one of the longest (15 hours) and most expensive. We wished we had flown.

With an abundance of hotels, tourist agencies, bars, cafes and shops, Legian is a tourist mecca. We dined in western restaurants and lost ourselves in the back alleys, markets and beaches. We were approached by many hawkers wishing to sell us fake watches, sunglasses and gold chains. And shop owners called out to us, "Hello mister, hello madam, come take a look". No thanks.

We went in search of the 2002 Bali Bombings memorial. Located amongst the restaurants, night clubs and shops was a cordoned off area with a water feature and a plaque of all the names of those who lost their lives in the bombings. While we stood at the front and read the names, we both felt a chill.

We went to a sunset dinner at Jimbaran. Restaurants are lined along the long stretch of white sand with tables and chairs set up several metres away from the water's edge. Once we got there, we walked along the beach admiring the scenery.

As the sun went down, we grabbed a front row table and ordered dinner. The rays of the sun stroked the sky in an array of colours. When our meal was served, musicians played at every table from the Beatles to The Eagles. It was such a beautiful evening.

One evening we visited Seminyak. With flash hotels and flash stores, this is the wealthy part of Bali. We found a nice bar with colourful cushions on the beach. We sat down for dinner but were literally blown away by the wind. Soon after it started to rain and everyone raced inside. As everyone got settled, the power went out. It was pitch black. Someone started singing happy birthday and everyone started laughing. The power flicked back on and off again for a short while turning the restaurant into a disco. The power eventually came back on.

With the rain looking to stay, we decided to move inland to Ubud. With an array of art and batik stores, Ubud is the artistic heart of Bali.

As soon as we arrived, we practically walked the whole of Ubud town taking in the artistic atmosphere. We passed by the Monkey Forest. Monkeys were littered on the side of the road, climbing up overhanging trees and stealing people's food. One cheeky monkey climbed along the power lines above our heads. We cautiously moved away.

The following day we prepared ourselves for a self-guided trek through the rice paddy fields. With a map in hand, we followed the road to where the trek began. We walked through a village before casting our eyes upon the lush green rice paddy fields.

The path was laden with palm trees and we were greeted by art and souvenir stores, villas and cafes. It was a well-trodden route, tourists either walked or cycled around while locals zipped through on their motorbikes.

We came across a beautiful café with picture perfect views of the surrounding fields. We bought a drink just so we could sit down and admire the views. The café had a labradoodle who was placid and friendly, unlike many of the Balinese dogs. Local dogs are bred as guard dogs and will bark menacingly at anyone passing by.

Several metres down the path we heard a jingle come from behind us. We moved out of the way thinking it was a cyclist but it was the labradoodle with his bell collar. He decided to join us on our jaunt and we welcomed our new furry friend.

We reached an art store and spoke to the local lady. Seeing this different kind of dog, she told us to be careful as there were many guard dogs along the way and they have been known to attack. After several attempts to take him back, her husband helped me return him to the cafe. The dog was chased by several guard dogs in the process but he seemed unfazed. He just wanted some adventure.

We continued our walk through the fields and finally reached the road. We had been told to turn right at the end. But there were 2 right options. A road and a path leading through more rice paddy fields. We chose rice paddy fields. Maybe we were the ones in search for adventure. But when the path ended, we had to turn back and walk back along the road.

That evening we went to the Kecak Fire and Trance Dance cultural show which was held in the Pura Dalem Taman Kaja Temple. The show began with men sitting around a circle chanting. Dancers came on, followed by kings and a monkey. Going by their motions, one of the kings wanted one of the dancers. He captured her but later the monkey came to her rescue.

Then it started to rain. Everyone ran for shelter and the show reconvened in the sheltered temple area. The dancing concluded before the fire dancing began. A man dressed as a horse pranced around the burning coconut shells. He kicked them around before sweepers centred them only to be kicked around again. It was the Balinese version of walking on hot coals.

We organised a day trip to visit the main sites north east of Bali. We visited the remains of the old court justice of Klungkung Kingdom in Semarapura. Built in the 17th Century, it was the highest and most important of the nine kingdoms of Bali until the Dutch invaded in 1908. The King of Klungkung and his 200 member family were killed either by the Dutch or by ritual suicide.

Driving further north we reached Besakih, the biggest temple in Bali located at the slope of Mount Agung. It was a long walk up a steep road to reach the temple. At the end we witnessed the beautiful temple grounds. It was a huge temple, but only those in prayer were permitted to enter the temple complexes. Visitors are able to walk through the side steps to view the temples. Hawkers tried to sell us drinks but we breathlessly declined. We reached the top of the stairs to view the temple complex. But we spent more time saying no to local children trying to sell us "cheap" postcards.

We were then driven to Kintamani, a viewpoint of Mt Batur and Batur Lake. The 180 degree panoramic views were spectacular. Mt Batur last erupted in 1963. It was such an explosion, the summit decreased by 700 metres. Mt Batur now stands at 3124 metres.

The surrounding lake is the largest lake in Bali. Located on one of the banks of the river is a small community - Bali Aga. They claim to be the original descendants of the Balinese and have different customs to the Balinese we know today. Rather than bury or burn the deceased, they dress them in traditional attire and leave them to decompose. The bodies don't smell during decomposition, even scientists are baffled by this phenomenon.

Passing by the coffee plantation and orange orchards we arrived at Pangkon Bali for lunch. This hidden café/organic farm is located on the edge of the rice fields, so while having lunch we had stunning views of the fields.

We were driven to Tampak Siring, the Holy Spring Water Temple. Locals wash themselves in the springs to purify themselves before prayer. It is believed that the water can eliminate diseases and give new holy spirits. We walked around, watching locals go about their washing rituals. One temple held the water that came directly from the ground. History states that King Indrajayasinghawarmadewa approved the flow of water in 960 AD.

Moving further on, we reached Gunung Kawi, The Rocky Temple. Built in the 11th Century, this archaeological temple is carved out of the rocks and is proposed to be listed on the World Heritage Sites.

We descended the 315 stone steps passing lush rice paddy fields, market stalls and the irrigation channels to reach the temple complex. Other than the sound of trickling water, it was quiet. We were able to absorb the stillness and enjoy the majestic carvings.

It was time to farewell Bali and continue our beach backpacking journey in Gili Trawangan. Despite the rain, we were excited about our arrival. It was a long stretch of beach with basic restaurants/cafes and accommodation alongside it. Other than the sound of mooring boats, it was quiet. There are no motorised vehicles on the Gili Islands. Our awaiting taxis were horse drawn carts.

We went for a slow walk north of the island. It's a very chilled out place with friendly locals. We found a reggae cafe with bamboo shelters. We had a lovely meal overlooking the beach. The islands have no dogs, only cats. Several cats decided to join us and begged us for food. I couldn't resist and shared my lunch with them while the owner looked on. He asked," Good food yes?". "Ah yes - the cats love it too!"

We spent the next day walking around the island and came across a turtle sanctuary. One tank had baby turtles and the other tank had adolescent turtles. Since only 1 in 100 turtles survive, the island set up this sanctuary where they keep the turtle eggs safe from predators and once hatched, keep the turtles in tanks until they are old enough to survive on their own. Twice a year they have a ceremony when the turtles are released into the ocean.

We walked further past the town to sheltered rocky beaches and bushy landscape. This side of the island is known for its blood red sunsets. But since the beaches are rocky, not many people stay here and most of the restaurants and accommodations have been abandoned.

Every night we noticed the empty restaurants and wondered where all the people went. When we went for dinner at the night markets, our question was answered. It was bustling with people waiting for their smoked fish or chicken skewers. A cloud of cooking smoke filled the air. We devoured our cheap local meal before heading to the outdoor makeshift cinema. We watched a movie with the sand between our toes.

We booked a snorkelling trip which takes you to 3 of the best snorkelling places around the Gili Islands. We couldn't have picked a better day. It was a cloudless day with calm water. We zipped through the breaks and while in the open water, had stunning views of Gili Meno, Gili Air and Lombok islands. We anchored on the west side of Gili Meno and everyone strapped on their snorkel and fins and jumped in. The visibility was good and we saw plenty of tropical fish swim through the coral.

We later arrived at Turtle Point just near Gili Air. We were in search of turtles and followed the instructor through the waves of blue water. It wasn't long before we spotted 6 turtles in the area. They were either walking along the coral or bobbing up for air. We swam towards them in the hope for a closer look. But they knew we were coming for them and soon enough they disappeared into the dark depths of the ocean.

After a feast on the beach for lunch, we went to the south of Gili Meno. There was a huge shallow reef in crystal clear waters with an array of tropical fish. Angel fish, parrot fish, an assortment of colourful fish I'd never seen before. We swam through schools of fish that didn't seem bothered by human interaction. We were in snorkelling heaven and I could have spent the entire day chasing them around. But all good things come to an end and it was time to get back on the boat and head back to Gili Trawangan.

That evening we were invited to sunset viewpoint with one of the hotel staff and a French guest. We hired some bicycles and cycled through where the locals live; bamboo houses dotted amongst the dense bushland before we reached the beach.

The beach side bar was open and full of people drinking Bintang and enjoying the last remaining moments of the day. We all watched the sun go down while listening to reggae music in the background. As the sky turned orange, they lit the beach bonfire. Then a local man lit the ends of his fire stick and danced around twirling the flames. Once it got dark we peddled back. Since the path was only partially lit, we used a mobile phone light to light the path ahead of us.

After a couple of lazy beach days it was time to move on. We were bound for Senggigi in Lombok where we reacquainted ourselves with the sound of motorised vehicles and barking dogs.

We spent our time here wandering around the town centre talking to locals, avoiding guard dogs in the nearby village, walking along the volcanic ash coloured sand, watching the rain every afternoon and enjoying the family life at our home stay. Every morning we were greeted with Indonesian coffee. It's the type of coffee that puts hairs on your chest. We became a part of the family and even befriended their guard dogs with chocolate biscuits.

Here we recharged our batteries and prepared the next leg of our trip. Farewell Indonesia, you have provided us with challenges but have also given us your rewards. Next stop, Borneo…