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Beijing is China's metropolis capital city. It has been the political centre for 8 centuries and known for its prosperous temples, palaces and gardens.
When first arriving in Beijing, we felt so far from our comfort zone we felt like aliens. Now we know how the Chinese feel when they arrive at our respective countries. With the lack of English speaking locals, we knew that China would be our most challenging country during our adventure and we will need to practice patience and perseverance.
We also timed our arrival on the same day of the Chinese National Day. The whole country had a week's holiday and we knew all the transport and tourist sites would be packed. We spent our time slowly familiarising ourselves with the city and its cultures.
When we took our first train into town the station was manic with people pushing and shoving to get tickets. The queue was more of a push of bodies bulging at the sides. Once we got into town it was mayhem. Imagine the whole population of China in this one area, that's what it felt like. More pushing and shoving, lots of shouting and children crying, it was like being in a festival. They waved Chinese flags and donned Chinese flag stickers on their faces and arms. Welcome to China!
It was time to get out of Beijing so we caught a high speed train to Xi'an and have to say we were impressed. It was an ultra-modern train which was sparkling clean inside and outside. The speed and other announcements appeared on the screens above each carriage so we could monitor our progress. The highest speed we reached was 304km / hour.
Xi'an was the bustling starting point of the Silk Road until the 10th Century and the now modern walled city has many remains of its historical past. The surrounding area is peppered with burial tombs including the famous Army of Terracotta Warriors.
The main streets of Xi'an that intersect the centre was jam packed full of people. Just when you found a bit of breathing space, you were almost stepping over stalls selling local food, cheap toys, fake watches and maps. To reach the other side of the road, we had to clamber through the underpass where more people negotiated their ways around the subway, department stores and road crossings.
Rather than visiting the tourist sites, we decided to stroll around the Muslim Quarter in the hope there were less people. It turns out there was no escape from the crowds. The streets were alive with colourful stores and aromatic stalls. When we reached the Drum Tower, we turned down a narrow street and wandered around the maze of markets selling everything from souvenirs to replica terracotta warriors. From here we came to the Great Mosque. It was founded in the 8th Century and is a grand piece of architecture that incorporates both Chinese and Muslim influences.
The following morning we planned our day better. Rather than exploring the city centre, we went to visit Jianfu Temple. Following our map we got lost and mistakenly discovered the surrounds of our local area. The narrow side streets were full of local people going about their day. Some brought groceries, some sat outside their stores smoking cigarettes and others sat around tables playing mah-jong. Some looked at us curiously wondering why tourists would venture in this part of town. We didn't know either.
Jianfu Temple was built in 684 AD and was one of three Buddhist Sutra Translation Venues during the Tang Dynasty. It attracted international Buddhist monks to translate Buddhist texts. The main attraction within the temple is the Small Wild Goose Pagoda. It was built in 707 AD but the top of the pagoda was shaken off during an earthquake in the 16th Century. The 43 metre structure still stands prominently within the temple grounds and once housed Buddhist scriptures.
The entrance of the temple ground contains water features, handicraft stores and a puppet theatre. Further inside we found the preserved pagoda, historical archways and bell towers, ancient bells and a fortune stand with bright red fortunes swaying in the breeze. The grounds are sheltered by pagoda trees over 1,000 years old.
Located within the grounds is the Xi'an Museum. The museum houses unearthed artifacts and relics dating back to 200 BC. Each room was a collection of history for bronze, pottery, ceramics, textiles and jade. The basement of the museum has a large scale model of the ancient Xi'an.
Towards the end of the Chinese National Holiday, the city streets had become a standard flow of people. We could walk around freely without bumping into another person. With a sigh of relief, we decided to explore the city wall. Xi'an City Wall is the largest preserved city wall in the world. It was built in 1370 during the Ming Dynasty and over time has been restored. It's a 14km perimeter and you can choose to walk or cycle.
As we entered the wall downstairs, there was a guard parade taking place in the open square. We watched for a moment as they paraded their spears and stood to attention in the most serious manner. When they disbanded, we walked up the stairs and onto the city wall itself.
We hired a bicycle and started cycling. We sped along the walling bouncing around at every pot hole. We paused every now and again to view the bustling city centre. Situated on each wall, several traditional buildings stood in place. Most stood empty but a few had historical photos on display and souvenirs for sale. Some people took refuge from the sun by sitting underneath the verandahs. In the distance, a haze blanketed the sky enveloping the heat of the sun.
As we left another parade was taking place in the open square. This time there was a puppet dancing show and a Korean group performing a tai chi type dance. The guards came on again, but to make it more interesting, drums were belted out as well as the parading. It was quite a spectacle and at the end there was the opportunity to take your photo with the guards. Do as the locals do. So I did.
For something different, we went to visit the mountainous area of Hua Shan. Hua Shan is one of Taoism's five sacred mountains and used to be the home of hermits and sages. It consists of granite peaks while trees cling onto the steep ledges.
From the entrance we took a bus to the cable car starting point. The bus winded through the town centre before flying up into the mountain area. We passed a small village before the walls of jagged granite rock appeared by our sides. As we climbed higher, we could see crumbling rocks below.
The cable car ride up the mountain was spectacular. The mist cleared away and presented us with the incredible views of the mountain area. If the mountains were snow-covered, you could have mistaken you were in the Swiss Alps. But rather than snow, the mountains were covered in trees with rich colours of greens, yellows and red. Further up more jagged pieces of rock pierced the walls. Some areas were extremely steep while other parts were a mountain climbers dream. It was a long journey though the mountain peaks that took us up, down and back up again.
Once we reached the top we headed towards the largest peak, South Peak. It stands at 2160 metres and although the walk is a simple steady climb of concrete pathways and stairs, it was steep and left us breathless.
We reached a viewpoint which gave us a glimpse towards the Hua Shan peaks. They stood proudly surrounded by a circle of mist. Another viewpoint led us to a tree decorated with red ribbons and engraved padlocks. The Chinese believe that leaving these tokens on the mountains will encourage love and prosperity.
Walking further up, we found ourselves just beneath the South Peak. The chained fence was lined with more red ribbons and padlocks. We then climbed to the summit clutching the chains to walk up the shallow stairs carved into the rock. The peak was a smoothed rounded rock and many people struggled for space. From here we could view the West Peak and surrounds.
We saw a sign directing us to the Plank Walk. We followed the trail around, down and over the mountain to find a temple and a restaurant with the finest views of the area. At the back of the temple was the Plank Walk. We wandered around to a narrow fenced footpath carved into the steep rock. Planks have been placed on a narrow escarpment and there are no fences to hold onto. Instead you are harnessed to the ropes attached to the mountain.
From here we walked towards the West Peak. While walking along the fenced ridge, the sun shone brightly on the misty peaks on our left hand side. On the right hand side, the lush colours of the trees were illuminated. At the end of the ridge there was an open platform where you could admire the scenery as well as a café if you wanted to enjoy a cup of coffee with the views. A temple was built on the peak and from here you could climb up onto the sheer rock. Our wobbly legs declined the offer so we descended back down.
The next day it was time to visit The Terracotta Warriors which is Xi'an's most prized tourist attraction. The surrounding area of the Terracotta Warriors Mausoleum is covered with landscaped gardens, clean footpaths, souvenir stores, drink stalls as well as photo booths where you could dress up in traditional clothing or have a photo taken with bronze mimes.
We entered the museum where we found rooms containing unearthed artifacts, the history of the discovery of the terracotta warriors, the history of the Roman Empire and the most prized piece, the two bronze chariots discovered in Pit 1. The atrium of the museum contained books where you could have a Terracotta Warriors book signed by one of the farmers who discovered the relics while he and other farmers were digging for a well.
We then entered Pit 2 which is the smallest pit discovered in April 1976. All the unearthed artifacts have been removed for display but found here were statues of military forces: archers, war chariots, cavalrymen and infantrymen. Broken pieces of pottery still remain but excavation continues.
Further along, we entered Pit 3 which was discovered in June 1976. It contained pottery figures, one chariot and bronze weapons. While the well preserved artifacts are on display, inside the pit are numerous warriors, mostly headless as well as four horses. Pit 3 is known as the command centre of all 3 pits.
Leaving the best to last, Pit 1 was the first and largest pit to be discovered in March 1974. It contained 6,000 warriors and horses. 2,000 carefully pieced together statues have been placed standing to attention. This mausoleum is now considered the 8th Wonder of the World.
We caught a train back to Beijing to meet up with my brother Richard and his wife Jojo. Jojo was born in China so having her would break through the language barrier. We were now ready to tackle the tourist sites of Beijing.
We visited the heavily guarded Tiananmen Square. There were a few interesting statues and monuments around the square but the main attraction was the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall. All was silent as we walked around the glass room with the embalmed Chairman Mao inside a crystal cabinet. Although he had died in September 1976, the remains were in perfect condition. A few times a year the embalmed body is sent to Russia for maintenance.
We then headed to the Forbidden City. The Forbidden City, also known as the Palace Museum, is China's largest and best preserved ancient complex that comprises of numerous palaces, gates and open areas. It was resided by 24 emperors of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. We entered through the national gate, Zhengyangmen, into the city and wandered around the complex.
Across the road was Jingshan Park. This park was built north of the Forbidden City as a barrier from evil spirits. It's a beautifully landscaped park with a path that climbs up to a Buddhist Temple which is the perfect place for panoramic views of the Forbidden City and Beijing itself.
We climbed up slowly and once we reached the temple, we wandered around taking in the views. We chose a different path to climb down and found ourselves east of the park where the Ming Emperor Chongzhen and his attendant hung themselves in 1644 as the peasant uprising army swarmed the city.
For Richard's birthday we organised a driver to take us to the Great Wall. The Great Wall was built by political prisoners during the Qin Dynasty around 221-207 BC as a line of defence against enemies. However, this defence failed when Mongol armies invaded China in the 13th Century. Parts of the wall have since been rebuilt and is now a major tourist attraction which is the only man made structure that can be seen from space.
To avoid the crowds we went to Mutianyu. The cable car ride was a short yet scenic ride up the mountain. When we walked up the path from the cable car platform and onto the wall, we were greeted with spectacular views of the Great Wall meandering around the mountain as well as the lush forested area surrounding it.
While admiring the architecture, the view captivated us. We passed through 13 watch towers during the 3km walk to the toboggan entry. From there we each jumped into a toboggan and flew down the mountain. But you can only go as fast as the person ahead of you, which towards the end was a slow walking pace.
After lunch we made our way back to Beijing. The traffic in the city is constantly congested with erratic drivers. Lanes seem to be optional rather than compulsory with vehicles honking their way into tight spaces. But what amazed us the most was the amount of expensive cars on the road with Audi being the most popular.
The Summer Palace was the playground for the imperial court wishing to escape from the crowded city. We entered through the North Palace Gate, Suzhou, and meandered around the hilly temples, towers, pavilions, statues and gardens.
The gardens were manicured perfectly where elderly locals rested their weary legs on the benches. Around the open areas were hawkers selling food, drinks and noisy toys for the children. And being a Saturday, many locals were out strolling through the palace gardens.
During our walk, we came across the Buddhist Fragrance Pavilion, the Cloud Dispelling Hall and the Long Corridor which was literally a long corridor walk. Nestled amongst the pavilions were many small eateries, souvenir shops and photo booths.
We came to Kunming Lake, a large lake taking up three-quarters of the park itself. In the 18th Century Emperor Qianlong ordered 100,000 labourers to expand the lake. From here we witnessed the sun glistening through the clouds onto the lake. In the background the 17 arch-bridge stood gracefully.
That evening we caught the train to Olympic Park. We joined the groups of locals wandering around this massive area where the Beijing 2008 Olympics took place. We walked around the Birds Nest National Stadium viewing its splendour from all angles. We passed the statue of the Olympic Torch before arriving at the National Aquatics Centre, Water Cube. After the hype of the Olympics, the Water Cube has now been converted into an indoor water park. From the outside, the changing lights shined brightly in shades of yellow, purple and blue.
We caught the high speed train to Shanghai. With over 23 million people, Shanghai is the most populated city in China. It is the busiest port in the world and is the financial hub of the Asia Pacific.
Staying near the shopping mecca of Nanjing Road, we walked through the pedestrian area which was full of mainstream stores and restaurants. In the open spaces there were performances by box step dancers, break dancers and karaoke singers. Hawkers tried to sell us roller-skate wheel attachments that fit straight onto your shoes as well as fake designer goods.
We made our way towards the Bund and had dinner at a rooftop restaurant. The panoramic views were spectacular. The whole of the city was lit up and directly in front of us was the Lujiazui skyline, the showpiece of Shanghai.
While Shiraz and Richard went to ride on the fastest train in the world, the Maglev which travels at 430km / hour, as well as visit the Shanghai Formula 1 race track, Jojo and I went to the markets at Yuyuan Gardens and Bazaar.
The Yuyuan Gardens is a beautifully ornate garden area with rocky pathways, overhanging pine trees, small bridges and Buddhist temples. Located outside the garden is the intricate maze of the bazaar. The narrow alleyways sprouted stores and stalls in traditional yet modernised buildings. We went through cramped souvenir shops filled with colourful scarves, confectionery stores filled to the brim with chocolates and expensive department stores.
We celebrated the end of our day by having a drink at the second highest bar in Shanghai, Cloud 9 Bar on Level 87 of the Grand Hyatt. It was a modern bar with wooden floors, cosy chairs and dim lighting. We enjoyed the panoramic views while piano music played in the background.
The following day we went to Qibao, a traditional town peppered with historical architecture and market lined alleyways along a canal. We walked towards the bustling tourist town and were overwhelmed by the number of people here. You had to squeeze to get through so we decided to walk along the peaceful canal instead.
While Richard and Jojo continued their holiday to Fuzhou, we had another day in Shanghai. We caught the train to the former French Concession. Settled by the French in 1849 it is an area described as Little Paris. Wandering around Tianzifang, we thought it was an area full of expensive stores along pretty tree lined roads. But when we diverted into an alleyway, we found the treasure. We discovered narrow corridors of artistic pursuits. It was packed with inspiring bars, creative restaurants, funky clothing and curio stores and photo galleries. The whole area was packed with camera wielding tourists attempting to capture the ambience as well as the perfect moment.
After wandering through the maze of creativity and colour, we caught the train to People's Square where one corner of the park had an array of abstract art and statues made from bronze, pottery, steel and plastic. It was an artist's dream with weird and wonderful designs.
We then strolled over to Xintiandi and found ourselves a new treasure to explore. It was a complex of gourmet restaurants, international bars and trendy clothing stores all under traditional Shanghai architecture. It was simple yet luxurious with plenty of options to part with your hard earned cash. We had never seen so many westerners in China before. We watched them dine on sirloin steaks, drink German beer and sip Italian coffee. Meanwhile we wandered around trying to locate anything that was free. Looking was free.
From Shanghai we made our way to Nanjing. Nanjing was the capital of China on several occasions and is recognised as one of the four Great Ancient Capitals of China.
We met up with a former work colleague of mine, Ronnie and her friend, Chris. They took us to Zhongshan Mountain Scenic Area, otherwise known as Purple Mountain. At 31 square kilometres Zhongshan Mountain is a large forested area and is listed as one of the four most famous mountains south of the Yangtze River. It's known as Purple Mountain due to the purple clouds hovering over the peak.
We joined the masses of people towards Sun Yatsen Mausoleum. Sun Yatsen was a revolutionary and is known as the father of modern China. He founded the Three Principles of the People: Nationalism, Democracy and People's Livelihood.
The café lined pathway led us to the base of the stairs. It was a breathless 392 steps to the Mausoleum. At the top of the stairs, we turned around to catch the view of the surrounding area; we could see the outskirts of Nanjing on the horizon. We then entered the marble Mausoleum where a seated statue of Sun Yatsen is on display. The walls are inscribed with his political and philosophical ideologies. The tomb where his body lays is locked behind a room at the rear of the Mausoleum.
From here we visited the Linggu Temple complex. One of the most fascinating buildings in Nanjing is the Beamless Hall. It was built in 1381 using brick and stone but contains no beam supports. It used to be a Buddhist temple but in the 1930s it was converted into a memorial hall with statues and inscriptions of those who died during the Japanese invasion.
It was time to climb Linggu Pagoda. It was built in 1933 in memory of those who sacrificed their lives during the Kuomingtang revolution. In the centre of the pagoda is the stone spiral staircase where we climbed to the 9th storey. We found panoramic views of the surrounding mountain area as well as Nanjing. Inside the platform were 2 old local men playing Chinese Chess. People spent more time watching their game than admiring the views.
For lunch we headed to the gates of Confucius Temple. The temple complex is situated along the Qinhuai River and is surrounded by a modern market and shopping area. Following the red lanterns we arrived at the Confucius Temple. Built in 1034, it was a place where one could worship the great philosopher Confucius. In front of the temple stood the river where yellow local boats flowed up and down the water. Many small concrete bridges spanned the river where more shops and restaurants opened their doors.
We crossed the river and headed towards a large Chinese restaurant. Traditional paper lanterns hung above our heads while fish swam in the tanks near the kitchen waiting to be cooked. We chose familiar meat dishes as well as sampling local dishes. When we returned to the table a plate of duck heads and duck tongues were served. Shiraz and I watched Ronnie and Chris tuck into these delicacies. We weren't game enough to try them out. When the other dishes arrived we devoured the sautéed duck, dined on tofu noodles and sampled the lotus flower and crispy rice cakes before trying out the soup dessert and sweet chewy pastries.
To get a glimpse into Nanjing's dark history, Ronnie and Chris took us to the Memorial Hall of the Nanjing Massacre. It was a modern memorial hall with the main building designed in the shape of a coffin. Outside were bronze statues situated around the water features bearing grim figures from the Nanjing massacre.
The Chinese government funded this memorial for the people to never forget the atrocities committed by the Japanese soldiers that invaded Nanjing in 1937. For 6 weeks the civilians of Nanjing were massacred. Nanjing became a horrific scene with the streets covered in bodies while the Japanese looted and burned down the city. Over 300,000 civilians died during this time.
The Memorial Hall exhibited names and photos of the deceased, skeletal remains, weapons, tools for torture as well as displaying gruesome photos and footage of the events that took place. Walking through the Memorial Hall left us with a heavy heart.
Although the Nanjing Military Tribunal for the Trial of War Criminals brought justice to the Japanese soldiers, Nanjing will never forget this tragedy. At the end of the hall, the sound of water dripping echoed the room. Every 12 seconds a life had been lost.
After saying goodbye to Ronnie and Chris, we had a day to explore Nanjing on our own. We caught the train to Xuanwu Lake Park. It's a 530 hectare park backing onto the city wall. The stunning lake was full of small boats that offered cruises around the various isles. The garden areas were lined with small temples, willow trees, bamboo trees and bonsai and rose gardens.
Venturing further down the lake we came across a staircase that led into the city wall. We climbed up and after walking through an exhibition of the walls history, we walked along the wall for a couple of kilometres. The wall is over 600 years old and has been since restored to its former glory.
We came across the Buddhist Jiming Temple. Jiming Temple translates to Rooster Crowing and was originally built in 527 AD but has been restored several times to maintain its regal beauty. It's bright yellow walls and seven storey pagoda dominates the south of the lake.
We wandered around this popular temple through the narrow corridors, candlelit temples and open squares. We lit the incense sticks we were provided with and watched the locals in prayer before guiding our sticks into the shrines ashes.
We walked down through the temple to find prayer flags and small red lanterns hanging from the trees. Several elderly locals sat around the trees praying or watching. It was a peaceful area with spiritual ambience.
HangZhou dates back to the Qin Dynasty in 221 BC. It's a prosperous commercial city and renowned to be China's happiest and safest city in the country. The best known attraction in HangZhou is the beautiful West Lake.
We walked around the northern end of West Lake. The lake was created in the 8th Century and captivates all who passes through with its lush gardens, regal pagodas, organised causeways and cultivated islands connected by stone archway bridges. In 2011 it became a UNESCO World Heritage site.
We arrived at the causeway to Gushan Island and walked over Broken Bridge and Jindai Bridge before watching the kite flyers spin their kites in the light winds. By the trail of willow trees, we found a row of traditional wooden boats. We stepped inside a boat and were taken on a loop of the lake around the island. The scenery was similar to a scene out of a movie with the boats floating around us, bridges and islands in the foreground and the hazy skyline in the background.
We continued our walk through the island. With Solitary Hill in the background we passed Zhongshan Park which was the site of Emperor Qianlong's holiday palace in the 18th Century. It was dotted with temple style cafes, abstract limestone statues and overhanging willow trees.
We then arrived at the remains of the temporary Imperial Palace of the Qing Dynasty. This palace was built in 1705 and was home to several emperors during the Qing Dynasty. With manicured gardens and walkways, the historical yet crumbling remains are hidden behind sheets of Perspex.
Further on from the palace, we came to the Xiling Seal Engraver's Society. This maze of rock gardens, stone bridges and temples perched on a hill are dedicated to the art of carving. As we explored the pathways, many art students were standing and sitting among the foliage sketching drawings of the beautiful surroundings.
In the distance we heard music coming from a lakeside pavilion. We found a band playing music on traditional instruments while a lady belted out hypnotic songs. It was a beautiful setting with the lotus leaves swaying behind them.
As the sun was descending behind the mountains, we walked over to the Jade Belt Bridge which was in an area nestled among the lotus leaves. We continued over Liujin Bridge, a traditional piece of architecture, before coming to Quyuan Garden. The pathway was lined with willow and plum trees. When the sun disappeared, the lake was covered in a blanket of blue and pink haze silhouetting the boats.
Qinghefang Old Street is a well preserved part of the ancient city. Maintaining its rich heritage the place flourishes with life. Market stalls and expensive stores line this quaint area. Both sides of the street were full of restored traditional buildings and in the middle, stalls sold everything from curios to hand made candy to drawings.
We wandered through admiring the architecture and embracing the atmosphere while being filled with curiosity of what lay ahead. Tea shops were full of tea sampling locals, sweet shops were full of children dragging their parents inside for a treat and pashmina stores were full of ladies trying to grab a bargain.
After catching the train back to Shanghai, our time in China had come to an end. China is not only a booming economy holding the record for being the most populated country, but it also comprises of wonderful treasures beneath the surface. And when you least expect it, you will find generosity and kindness hiding in the masses. Next stop, Nepal…
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