We had chosen to head to Nkhata Bay today and, since we would make up an hour when we went through the border, decided we could relax and read a little in the morning before we left. Bongo Campsite is really in a very picturesque region of Tanzania with high mountains peaks and virgin forest that the road to the border passes through. Next to the road there is not an empty lot with tea plantations in between dirty little towns and motorbikes and bicycles constantly moving people around.

We had no problem at the border and like Malawi because they let us in for free! The only difference was that our Carne was scrutinized and brought in to question and our supporting documents checked for the first time. She even wanted to see the vehicle! She was either new, didn't know what was going on or Malawi has a big problem with illegal importation of vehicles (I think all three!) because the customs officials up to now always stamped it blindly. But good for her for doing her job and we weren't held up too much and the 30min experience through both borders was very pleasant. I'd bought insurance to cover for the return journey and kept kwacha so no need to be harassed by anyone!

In Karonga we stopped off to look for anything about Ant's grandmother's history as we think she was born there. We were directed to old mission, an interesting Presbyterian mission dating back to 1890 or so. The level of the lake has risen and covered many of the old buildings as it was right on the shore and the floods have ruined the buildings further back. When the floods were was an amusing account from a handful of people giving us different dates and then declaring there were many! In the end we found nothing of personal interest but hearing of the mission and how the school was moved inland then back and the church rebuilt on the same foundation was very interesting.

After getting the usual flat tyre and realising the one we had fixed was broken again (all our flats are because they are never repaired properly!), we started the climb up to Mzuzu and visited our friends at Kandawe tourism. The same assortment of people were hanging around on the side of the road but the main character was not there (who runs the museum) only the funny coloured guy from Kimberley and his two sons who had no recollection of us visiting a month before!

In Mzuzu we sorted one tyre (just the dirt around the rim they don't seal caused leaks and must be cleaned) and amused ourselves with a guy telling us is was 90km only to Nyika and we must go. "The road is good and if you leave early you should get there by lunchtime" (90km? Good road?). The guys worked late and didn't charge us for the cleaning so we paid a tip and headed to Nkhata Bay in the fading light.

The road in to Big Blue Star Backpackers was hardly for cars but we made it in and found ourselves in the company of some random and weird backpackers right on the edge of the lake. We opted for a cheap room ($15) since it was already dark and settled in for the night, using our one-plate-wonder to whip up some delicious pasta.