Hi everyone,

Writing from illha grande, an island 2 hours from Rio de janeiro. We arrived the day before yesterday after spending 4 days in Rio, which was quite an experience.

Dooney Tours Ltd came unstuck at the first hurdle and its sole client Laura Pelly was at a loss as to what had gone wrong and started demanding a refund.

Our BA flight that was supposed to take us to Rio decided it was only going as far as Sao Paulo. We were placed on a national flight though so it was fine. However we landed into Rio on the worst day of weather in months/the past 100 years. The guy who was supposed to pick us up wasnt there and we couldn~t get in touch with our hostel
(number just kept ringing out, later transpired that the power was down - that was the hostel owners story anyway!) so we arrived at 9.30 and didn~t leave the airport unitl 4.30 because we didn~t have the address of the place cos their website was not working - lowest point so far to be fair.

Anyway, a phone call to NZ later (Claire Dooney who was very helpful given it was 4.30am there) to get address and after two hours queing to get a taxi in what can only be described as monsoon like weather, we arrived at our hostel, quick meal then bed, only to be kept awake half the night by some hysterical dog. If there was a gun at hand the dog would not be with us today.

Next day, lashing rain again, explored the centro and did our best not to be robbed. While on the payphone trying to make a call we turned to a security guard with his gun drawn as there was money being put into a security truck. made our exit minus bullet wounds from any cross fire delighted with ourselves.

Day after, we got a brazalian guide to take us around the city for the day - weather was much improved and we got to see the usual haunts, Ipanema, Cocacapbana, Sugar loaf and lastly Christ the Redeemer. Rio didn~t disappoint in the views department - incredible. Overall would have to say great city from a distance but did nothing for us on closer inspection - spent the whole time being told we could be robbed/mugged at any time and after leaving ireland fairly traumitised by saying goodbye to the family, it did not help our nerves!! It didn~t help that we were staying in an area the equivalent of the liberties or perhaps newtown, wellington. described as bohehmian, which no doubt it is, but which universally translates as being a dodgy area. the set up of the city is unique in that the town planners have stopped the spread of favellas (slums) by building large office/apartment buildings. the slums don~t go anywhere but are in fact more hidden.

we were pretty glad to get out of there to be honest - sipping caparinhas in the sun is alot less stressful!

Illha grande is gorgeous - it s a Unesco heritage site since 1992. Chilled out kind of place, no banditos to stress us out. Staying in a nice guesthouse overlooking the sea with a veranda and a comfy hammock..nice.

We took a boat out to one of the beaches, Lopes Mendes today - definitely one of the nicest beaches we've ever been on - the weather is finally playing ball too, so its all good - had there been surf it would have been perfect (in dooneys eyes) but yeah, good day had all round.

Tomorrow, more of the same, then Tuesday back to the mainland and off to Paraty - a colonial town further south.