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Day 42: The day I could have died.
I woke up with a hangover and thought the best thing for it was some 7-11 coffee and oreos.
Today we decided to rent some boards so I could have my first surfing experience. I thought $8 a hour was pretty good. I was really nervous as I don't really like water anyway, but I was so wanting to try surfing - especially in Cali. Sol, in thw water we went and it was awesome. The waves were a lot bigger than they looked from the beach, but as long as we didn't go too far out we would have been okay. The waves started getting bigger and we realised we couldn't touch the bottom, as we had been dragged out. The waves kept crashing down over us and no matter how much we tried to swim to shoree, we just got dragged out further. I couldn't breathe, the waves were f;ippuing the board onto my head, which pushed me further into the water and I was so weak from trying to swim backk that I just couldnt move. Between the waves crashing on us we waved the lifeguard to come get us and within minutes this 70's porn moustache wearing guard appeared and took us to shore. He then informed us that we got caught in a rip current and that is why we were getting beat down and couldnt swim out of it.
I really dont want to think what would have happened if there was no lifeguard there - we definitely wouldn't have got out, it's just to hard. It;s a sahem because I really loved sufing and was actually pretty good at uit - but I don't think I will be going back out there any time soon.
It took me ages to get my breathe bacl and I had my first justified panic attack lol.
Well, it certainly was an experience, and the main thing is that we got out and we are now okay.
The rest of the afternoon was less eventful. We went to the library as Grant spilt beer over Ambers laptop last night and now it does not work.
The watch a couple of films before getting rwady to go out.
Ambers boyfriend, Mike, came over and then we went bar hopping round ocean beach. All the bars here served cheap pitchers of beer and have awesome duke boxes.
The last bar we went to was in a area called the war zone -which is a bit worrying but it was pretty coo;. Met up with some of Ambers frineds and drank more. On the way home we had a nightcap in a Philapino stripper bar than had no strippers in.
Odd.
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