For two nights we stayed on the incredible island of Ilha Grande, Brazil's third largest that's situated about two hours south of Rio de Janeiro. For 85 reais (about $35) our hostel organized a transfer for us from Rio to a port town and then a ferry across the water to the island, which was fabulous for the most part until our arrival on the island and our trek for the hostel began. Ilha Grande is bit different in the sense that there are no private vehicles on the island. Everything is reached by boat, biking but predominantly walking, which I found quite similar to Prince Isles in Istanbul (that's pretty much where the similarities end, though). There also exists not a single ATM on the island so all cash must be brought from the mainland.

Anyway, being as prepared as one could possibly be for island living, we set out on our trek that honestly wasn't even that far. Nonetheless, after walking up a few hills and false alarms as to the entrance, we arrived in our hostel that's basically set back in the jungle. We stagger up the reception desk absolutely dripping in sweat and that is not an exaggeration in the slightest. We're trying to pay and get our passports out for the girl to scan and sweat is dripping everywhere. I'm trying to wipe it off with my T-shirt as fast as humanly possible but it's dripping all over the floor and over maps and things sitting on the desk. Fabulous first impression and entrance, girls.

That has become a common theme tying all our days together so far. Sweating profusely. I know it's gross but I just need to explain how I've never sweat like this before in all of my days and it's not just me. Negar and other friends complain regularly they're sweating from places they didn't even think sweat pores existed... As for me, I start sweating at my shoulders first. My shoulders! Not my armpits or boob area as it typical when I'm in Europe or the States, but my shoulders. I don't even know what to make of that.

Anyway, finally we're given our room and we go out to the little deck area outside to have a smoke and congratulate ourselves on surviving the trip. We sit down next to three guys speaking some ridiculous guttural language that I believe to be some form of German and turns out they're Swiss. I seriously could catch only a couple words here and there, Negar as well. Like, speak hochdeutsch pleaseeeee. I'll love you forever if you do.

But they were quite lovely and gave us lots of good information on beaches and hiking on the island, and this is where we were mistakingly led to believe that the boys had done the 2 and a 1/2 hour hike from the town center to Lopes Mendes, this beautiful beach that no one will stop talking about. We then leg it down to the beach to cool off and start again. It was great, it really was.

The following day we met up with our friends we met at our hostel in Rio and who are doing a similar route through South America as us. Three English girls and a guy and they're so much fun. Negar and I were just saying how pleased we were to meet them at the start of our travels since it's usually the way that you meet great people towards the end. We had planned to meet at 11 to finally hit up this beach Lopes Mendes, and the girls arrived just a few minutes after us. The last person we were waiting for was the lovely Ryan, but before we could say another word this man rocks up in a motorboat driven by a guide from his hostel. We stared for a while, not completely certain as to what was transpiring before our eyes. Then he waves for us to come over, our transportation to the fabulous beach had arrived without us having to lift a figure and Ryan looked like a total bad ass in the process.

We set out for the beautiful beach and are dropped off about 40 minutes away as we have to hike the last bit. We wander through the jungle in search of this beach encountering wildlife along the way and sweating profusely in the process. Naked hiking and endless sweating... We finally arrive and the beach is breathtaking! I've never seen water so blue or sand so white and no people except for on the far side of the beach. We're so impressed. This place lives up to the hype and more.

We play in the water and lay out for a while and pretty much spend the day alternating between the two activities. Finally, it's time for us to live up to our promises and do the trek back to the main village. Two and a half hours, they say... Two and a half hours. Before we go we fill up on açaí, a lovely berry sort of smoothie that's meant to infuse the consumer with some energy, and we definitely needed it. We set out and the sweat begins. Twenty minutes into the hike Negar asks Emma how long it's been. "It's been twenty minutes," Emma responds.

The rest of the hike was filled with sweat, complaints and off and on silence as each of us contemplated why the hell we thought this would be a good idea. At one point it seemed like the steep uphill incline would never end, but finally and miraculously, we hit the summit and receive beautiful views in return for our blood, sweat and tears. As soon as we reach the village we leg it into the water of the city beach and I don't believe I've ever or ever will again feel such relief and pleasure in finishing an activity.

On our way back to our respective hostels we come across a sign at Aquario (the town's party hostel) for an all-you-can-eat BBQ costing 30 reais including a caiparinha. Sign. Us. Up. And it turns out Teaya did just that while we were lagging behind. They know us too well already.

After showering, we meet up with the girls and Ryan and Francisco and enjoy the best food we've had in Brazil so far. So pleased. Very much deserved. Francisco says the food is perfect, the place is perfect, open up your eyes and appreciate how perfect everything is. And I agree. What a great way to end a great day. Good food, great people and beautiful scenery.

Next stop for The Gringa Motorcycle Diaries: Paraty.