Hi,

I was gonna post about food, which I will eventually, but I have to write about the place and the people; the city is intoxicating, a mixture of sights and sounds that appal and enthral. After 3 days here I am almost used to the intense heat and humidity, the noise of the place also takes getting used to and the smells can be stomach churning. The one thing I can ignore (because you have to) but not ever forget is the poverty, it is everywhere, the most striking sight was outside the main station - a man curled up like a dog (there are lots of dogs lying in the streets) naked on the pavement, possibly dead, passersby not even sparing a glance as they stepped over him, the child beggars have no impact now as they at least have the dignity of clothing. I felt ashamed that I too passed by but I have realised that to be here you must inure yourself to this side of India.

We visited a place called the 'The Towers of Silence' (well drove past it on a tour of the city) it is here that the Parsi people take their dead, they lay the bodies in the open air for the eagles, ravens and vultures to eat - the sky is full of birds that circle all day long and add to the noise with their calls. The highlight of the tour was the open air laundry (as seen on the Kevin McCloud TV program) here the cities laundry is soaked, washed, beaten dry, hung, ironed, folded and then return to its owners (from individuals to large hotels) - there is no machinery, it is all hand washed, there is also no electronic record keeping or inventory it is all done by hand - scribbled on the corners of sheets and the inside of shirt collars - nothing ever goes missing - the population of Bombay is 10 million, staggering accuracy!

A funny thing happened at the museum this morning, whilst walking through the gardens a family came to us and asked where we were from, I told them England, the 2 young boys with them were immediately pushed forward and told to shake my hand, 'good morning kind sir, pleased to meet you' - we are as much an attraction to Indians as they are to us...I mean me really as ally is too ethnic looking...

Have found a couple of great watering holes - the best being Cafe Mondagar (Mondys), on Colaba Causeway, behind the Taj Palace Hotel. Food has been excellent, curry for breakfast, lunch and dinner washed down with large bottles of Kingfisher Beer, for those under the delusion that Indian food is better in England you're wrong!

Curried baked beans on toast for breakfast anyone...?

Goa next, James