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Kerela, Fort Kochi
South western tip of india, been here 2 days now and loving it! staying in a lovely 'homestay' a room in a house, run by Russel De'Costa - called Mickeyvilla. Such a different place than Goa (Blackpool in India), weather is hotter and more humid - every night there is lightning and thunderstorms, just ridden home in an auto rickshaw because the rain is biblical! they do call this place gods country...
Had a 4 hour tour of the city today in rickshaw, our driver/guide took us round the place - St francis Church was the first Christian Church in India also burial place of Vasco De'Gama (for those who do not know him - google him) his remains were later removed back to Portugal. City is a wrong description for this place as none of the buildings are taller than the surrounding coconut trees (thousands of them) all of them are old colonial villas and godowns (a type of house/warehouse) we visited a spice market, got stuck in a traffic jam in the rice market, went to Jew Town to visit Indias first Synagogue, the obligatory laundry (every city has a huge human powered open air laundry). a Jain temple (the Jainis are vegetarians who only eat veg/fruit that is grown above ground?) this may all sound exotic and fascinating but the reality is, whilst still great to see and experience, its all a bit anti climactic, a bit run down, chaotic, overcrowded, Indian? plus there are the usual authentic Holy artifacts, genuine local craft shops, mystical gemstone dealers that claim their stones cure .......... (fill in the blank).
Food is stunning! seafood in particular here is a speciality, had Kalamary Curry tonight (squid), lunches conists of rice (how odd) with all sorts of pickled veg, curried veg, raita, bread, etc. the only weird thing is .... NO F***ing beer!!!!! you have to queue up at night in the rain at the government run off license or there is one bar called XL (on Rose St) which we think is attached to a big hotel that sells beer, its full of western tourists having their fill (when I say no beer I mean no alcohol - no where sells alcohol apart from these 2 places).
I have purchased a supply of beers for consumption in the homestay... but when you are out and about and its so hot all you crave is a cold one and all thats on offer is a freshly juiced mango, pineapple and orange drink (isnt that Lilt, the totally tropical drink) there is no substitute for a chilled glass of beer...
Corruption report...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baksheesh
Ally got a little overcome by the heat yesterday and needed to sit and take some sugary drink (lime soda) a friendly old man helped us and pointed us to a shop to buy said drink, as soon as she was ok out popped his hand 'backsheesh please kind sir?' 10 rupees was parted with...sums the place up - nobady does anything for nothing in fact a lot do nothing for anything! from listening to Russel (the owner of the homestay) who has lived in England for 30 years, the society operates on baksheesh, a little is given here and there to make things happen... from small tips and gifts to beggars, street entertainers, rickshaw drivers right up to massive bribes for govt contracts from major companies. Every one expects it and at the same time complains about it...
TTFN
James (drinkingbeer)
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